WR450F Water pump leak


23 replies to this topic
  • chiefster1976

Posted May 16, 2011 - 11:56 PM

#1

Hi..
excited to get the 05 WR450F fired up after its new top end rebuild!
:smirk:

Once fired up i have a leak from UNDER the water pump area on the right hand side on the right hand case..Its between 2 bolts and it looks like a small hole about 3mm in diameter.Looks like its supposed to be there cos i checked on another WR and its there also...Never leaked coolant before top end rebuild.:smirk:.
Whats this HOLE FOR?? breather, Why is there coolant coming out from here??
Has a seal or something blown???

  • NEKOOHC

Posted May 17, 2011 - 12:11 AM

#2

the hole is a weep hole for coolant to escape if any water pump seal issues arise

  • chiefster1976

Posted May 17, 2011 - 03:30 AM

#3

So i just need to order the pump seals from Yami and replace? easy job??

  • Jonbikes

Posted May 17, 2011 - 03:37 AM

#4

I just dealt with this on my 07 YZ450f. The hole is a weep hole between the oil and water seals on the impeller shaft so that you know which one and when it is leaking. If oil is coming out you need to do the oil seal and if its water such as in your case its the coolant seal. You will most likely also have to change the impeller shaft. When I did mine I bought the shaft, both seals, and the bearing that the shaft runs on just to be on the safe side. The bearing appeared to be fine so I just changed the shaft and the two seals (shaft was notably worn where the seals ride on it). I believe it took me about an hours worth or labor all said and done and I've since put 15-20 hours on the bike with zero problems.

  • chiefster1976

Posted May 17, 2011 - 04:13 AM

#5

I just dealt with this on my 07 YZ450f. The hole is a weep hole between the oil and water seals on the impeller shaft so that you know which one and when it is leaking. If oil is coming out you need to do the oil seal and if its water such as in your case its the coolant seal. You will most likely also have to change the impeller shaft. When I did mine I bought the shaft, both seals, and the bearing that the shaft runs on just to be on the safe side. The bearing appeared to be fine so I just changed the shaft and the two seals (shaft was notably worn where the seals ride on it). I believe it took me about an hours worth or labor all said and done and I've since put 15-20 hours on the bike with zero problems.


Hi Jon thanks for your reply..is replacing the shaft a matter of replace only if it is grooved or replace anyway? How did you do this job? Do you have to take off the full right hand case cover/clutch etc?
any tips and do's and donts? thanks, i want to tackle this tomorrow but need to know what i need to order from the yami shop..
outer seal?
Shaft?
right Hand case gasket(or use original)??:smirk:

  • miweber929

Posted May 17, 2011 - 04:37 AM

#6

Search. Common problem, covered MANY times on the board.

Mike

  • Sknight

Posted May 17, 2011 - 05:15 AM

#7

It is common but for some reason Yami shops in the Atlanta area won't have parts in stock. I called five or six places before I found one that would even put it on the locator which found one seal 60 miles away from me. Luckily my shaft wasn't hurt, a previous owner ran it with pure water at some point which burned the seal up. Bearing was tight, shaft cleaned up nice with a scotch brite, no fuss no muss.

I'd pull it apart and see if the shaft is hurt, then order parts. And be prepared to replace the side cover gasket.

  • Jonbikes

Posted May 17, 2011 - 03:27 PM

#8

Hi Jon thanks for your reply..is replacing the shaft a matter of replace only if it is grooved or replace anyway? How did you do this job? Do you have to take off the full right hand case cover/clutch etc?
any tips and do's and donts? thanks, i want to tackle this tomorrow but need to know what i need to order from the yami shop..
outer seal?
Shaft?
right Hand case gasket(or use original)??:smirk:


You will have to remove the clutch/crank case cover from the right hand side as well. First drain coolant and engine oil, then remove the hose going to the water pump and pull the pump cover. Next remove the clutch cover and crank case cover. Once these are off the impeller shaft and impeller will come away from the rest of the engine and be stuck in the crank case. Now you are done with the bike and can focus on the crank case and getting your impeller shaft out of it. There is a spot for a socket on the impeller and a spanner on the shaft, just unthread the two and the shaft will pull out of the crank case, seals and bearing. Next pop the bearing and both seals out, replacing both seals now would be a very good idea because the oil one WILL start to leak in the future, its inevitable so you may as well put a new one in while you are there and they are like 7 bucks. If your shaft looks ok then don't bother replacing that, but check it with a set of calipers to be sure. Once you have the seals back in then press the bearing in and re assemble. I'd also suggest replacing all of your gaskets (I didn't change the crank case gasket but I should have).

I believe that should sum it up.

P.S. be prepared to have a good system for remembering which bolt goes in which hole with the clutch/crank case. I had them in order and still managed to get one mixed up, just prevent yourself some messing around.

  • chiefster1976

Posted May 18, 2011 - 04:38 AM

#9

Hi JON..
Just saw your thread after i did the job earlier today.. LOL..
Your explanation sums up the process to a tee..This thread should be on the STICKY/HOW TO, section...'
Anyways took it all apart and the propeller shaft was total scored..I mean F*cked..
Got the two seals and bearing from yami dealer for a small fortune here in OZ.. Pick up the clutch case gasket and kick start seal and water pump outer seal.. Pretty much all the seals to be sure..Dont want to take stuff apart again hey..lol...
Only thing im toying with now is wether i should part with $100 AU to get my propeler shaft from Yami AU, or wait a week for the SAME genuine part from USA for $35... WE get Soooo ripped off here in oz its untrue...

One thing to note..The service manual show both seals on the water pump but only explains how to fit the oil seal one,I.E face manufacture number FACE DOWN..then fit the bearing...
The other seal (the propeller side the numnbers dont face down,they face the outside of the case then the propeller goes over the seal...:smirk:(I.E. both seals in effect face the same way, open end towards the inner side of the motor)
Ill try and post up some pics soon...

  • Sknight

Posted May 18, 2011 - 05:50 AM

#10

Someone will correct me if I'm wrong but the faces need to face each other. The seal lips need to face the fluid they're containing. At least that's the way I put mine together.

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  • Jonbikes

Posted May 18, 2011 - 03:10 PM

#11

You have your water seal in backwards. The two seals should face eachother so to speak with the same sides together. If the oil seal goes numbers to the outside of the engine, then the water seal goes numbers towards the engine.


Each seal works in the same direction, and you have fluids on opposite sides so they need to be installed opposite ways from eachother.

-> <- not -> >- (pretend that the - represents the fluid in question and the >/< is the seal, left is oil right is water just like on the bike).

  • chiefster1976

Posted May 19, 2011 - 06:21 PM

#12

You have your water seal in backwards. The two seals should face eachother so to speak with the same sides together. If the oil seal goes numbers to the outside of the engine, then the water seal goes numbers towards the engine.


Each seal works in the same direction, and you have fluids on opposite sides so they need to be installed opposite ways from eachother.

-> <- not -> >- (pretend that the - represents the fluid in question and the >/< is the seal, left is oil right is water just like on the bike).


My post says OIL seal (bearing side) goes NUMBERS SIDE INWARDS,NOT outside of engine!!
BELOW shows numbers 15 and 16 as the OIL seals(not water seal.:smirk:)
Posted Image
BELOW for some reason the less than informative book shows both seals as being OIL seals..Thought one was a water seal but there you go..:smirk:
Posted Image

BELOW..This page is showing and explaining the oil seal(BEARING SIDE) numbers face INWARDS, I.E. the OPEN side of the seal will face the bearing because SEAL goes in FIRST!!
Posted Image
BELOW is the OLD seal..NUMBER FACING INWARDS.open part of seal facing Bearing(remember at this stage seal goes on before bearing)..this is how i put the new seal in.. IS THIS RIGHT??? Im just following the book at this stage..
Posted Image
BELOW is Water pump side(propeller) This is how my seal came out so i have put it back in the same way..Manual doesnt show which way this goes in, only says OIL SEAL face inwards when it describes oil seal/bearing side..:prof:
Posted Image

So if you look at it from above pic side..water pump seal, numbers are facing OUTWARDS(not in) and the oil seal if looking from SAME water pump side is facing the SAME way as water pump seal...
Im pretty SURE the water pump seal is correct as this is how it came out..BUT MAYBE THE LAST GUY HAD THIS SEAL IN WRONG HEY???????????

Just not sure on the bearing side as the Numbers SIDE is NOT facing the bearing, which is what John bikes is explaining,but the book says numbers INWARDS On bearing side which means the closed end is NOT facing the bearing...
Confused!!:lol:

  • Sknight

Posted May 19, 2011 - 06:46 PM

#13

You have the water pump seal in backwards. The lip of the seal has to face the liquid you're containing. Why does the book call it an oil seal? Probably because it's the same seal and that book was translated from Japanese by a guy that learned English second.

You need to flip it over or you're going to have a leak.

  • swolf

Posted May 19, 2011 - 07:13 PM

#14

Mine leaks when it sits and is cold. replaced the seals last summer and shaft looked new (bike had 126 miles on it when i bought it last year) 06wr450. who knows?

the numbers on the seals face each other.

  • chiefster1976

Posted May 20, 2011 - 01:31 AM

#15

You have the water pump seal in backwards. The lip of the seal has to face the liquid you're containing. Why does the book call it an oil seal? Probably because it's the same seal and that book was translated from Japanese by a guy that learned English second.

You need to flip it over or you're going to have a leak.


So the seal in the BOTTOM picture is the wrong way around? ????????

The seals have different part numbers and ARE different sizes..

  • dgcars

Posted May 20, 2011 - 01:53 AM

#16

The seal lip of the oil seal must face the bearing, and the lip of the coolant seal must face the impeller.

  • chiefster1976

Posted May 20, 2011 - 05:09 AM

#17

Thanks Dcars...
this is what is was after..
:smirk:

  • Sknight

Posted May 20, 2011 - 05:46 AM

#18

So the seal in the BOTTOM picture is the wrong way around? ????????

The seals have different part numbers and ARE different sizes..

Yes the bottom one is in backwards. Once I found out my shaft was fine and didn't need replacement I just looked up the water side, either way translation mistakes happen.

  • WR450F_Sweden

Posted May 24, 2011 - 12:38 AM

#19

When I did this a while ago I had the same questions regarding the orientation of the seals. Check out the picture in this thread it pretty much says everything.
The conclusion is that the spring side of the seal should face the liquid it is supposed to contain.

http://www.thumperta...t=703925&page=4

  • gsa102

Posted May 24, 2011 - 08:30 AM

#20

Someone will correct me if I'm wrong but the faces need to face each other. The seal lips need to face the fluid they're containing. At least that's the way I put mine together.


+1:thumbsup:




 
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