new top end break in cycle?


35 replies to this topic
  • tjg53

Posted 18 May 2011 - 12:17 PM

#21

You can get one at sears !

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  • Shawn_Mc

Posted 18 May 2011 - 04:39 PM

#22

Quote

i'd be pissed if my guys put my motors together with no oil on the cyl walls.

Honestly, this isn't about you.


Ballzdeep,

Its only complicated when you listen to more than one person. People pay me to do engine work for them. There is a reason why my bench is usually cluttered with engines and suspension. Because people keep telling other people....shits gotten a little out of control really...

Ive never had a top end come back.

Go buy a torque wrench. A 3/8's drive that goes to 100 ft. lbs is plenty.

Ive explained how I do it.

Its the way you should do it if you want it to run good and last.

Take the cylinder to the shop to get honed. Once its honed, wash it out with hot soap and water, then go through the cylinder with ATF on a white rag. You may get more grit out, but when its clean, just wipe the cylinder out with a paper towel. That will leave a trace of ATF in there to prevent any corrosion while you assemble it. Oil the piston pin. If you feel you must oil the piston, you can put a smear with a finger on the skirt. Don't oil the ring pack!!

  • GoBollzD33P

Posted 18 May 2011 - 09:52 PM

#23

not sure if a torque wrench is in my budget right now..

but what i think is really holding me back is that i really HATE doing something myself until i've seen it done right.. if i've seen a piston changed right on i'll follow what he did and what not but until then i don't wanna screw up.

i'll ask a guy to do it for me and i'll see what he does, make sure he does it the right way and i'll watch him closely and see what is involved in this

  • MELK-MAN

Posted 19 May 2011 - 07:22 AM

#24

GoBollzD33P said:

not sure if a torque wrench is in my budget right now..

but what i think is really holding me back is that i really HATE doing something myself until i've seen it done right.. if i've seen a piston changed right on i'll follow what he did and what not but until then i don't wanna screw up.

i'll ask a guy to do it for me and i'll see what he does, make sure he does it the right way and i'll watch him closely and see what is involved in this

.. he better be a good friend:ride: Most builders won't want someone hawking over them, A) makes some nervous :smirk: they are showing you something that is likely costing them money in future, as you are hoping to do yourself.
Perhaps you could pay extra to have a "lesson" during the build, but unless your Einstien smart, you won't pick up on everything in one sitting. Good builders are always learning stuff themself. There are some pretty darn important steps to doing it right, miss one critical step and the engine can be junk. I applaud you for wanting to learn though. I personally have a couple businesses to run and lots of riding to do, so don't mind having my suspension and internal engine stuff done by guys that know more about it than me. Enjoy! but keep in mind what i said, earlier. If he does allow you to watch, keep questions to a minimum.. if you see steam coming from his ears, take a couple steps back and give a few minutes before any more questions:smirk: Um, very detailed shop manual would be in order too no? If a torque wrench isnt' even in the budget .. i fear your riding days may be limited on this machine.

  • GoBollzD33P

Posted 19 May 2011 - 08:31 AM

#25

i don't race it or fmx it so the dirtbike doesnt get beat on like a regular dirt bike does.. i'm not working on it where a torque wrench is required so i don't need one right now.. the guy that will hopefully do it for me is an ex small engine machanic he wouldnt mind if i was watching right beside him.. if he doesn't do it then i'm forced to go to one of the dirt bike shops in town and thats definately my last resort.. they expensive and do mediocre work.

  • MELK-MAN

Posted 19 May 2011 - 03:16 PM

#26

GoBollzD33P said:

i don't race it or fmx it so the dirtbike doesnt get beat on like a regular dirt bike does.. i'm not working on it where a torque wrench is required so i don't need one right now.. the guy that will hopefully do it for me is an ex small engine machanic he wouldnt mind if i was watching right beside him.. if he doesn't do it then i'm forced to go to one of the dirt bike shops in town and thats definately my last resort.. they expensive and do mediocre work.

try getting to know some local riders.. see how does work on the side. It really pays to have someone familiar with this "race engings" (like it or not, that is pretty much what the crf motor is..) vs. a small engine lawn mower repair guy.. Someone in your area has to do decent work on the side. No matter what, it is likely gonna not be cheap. Fact of life in motorsports.

  • Shawn_Mc

Posted 19 May 2011 - 04:41 PM

#27

GoBollzD33P said:

i don't race it or fmx it so the dirtbike doesnt get beat on like a regular dirt bike does.. i'm not working on it where a torque wrench is required so i don't need one right now.. the guy that will hopefully do it for me is an ex small engine machanic he wouldnt mind if i was watching right beside him.. if he doesn't do it then i'm forced to go to one of the dirt bike shops in town and thats definately my last resort.. they expensive and do mediocre work.


Buy a case of beer and invite the guy to look over YOUR shoulder while you do the work. Ask him nicely to bring his torque wrench.

Buy a Service manual first. When you run into a situation where something isnt obvious refer to the manual with your Mechanic buddy. If you dont understand it, he probably will. He probably wont even read it tho. He'll glance at the pic's and say "Do X" :smirk:

Any decent mechanic is almost powerless against free beer by the way... :smirk:

  • GoBollzD33P

Posted 19 May 2011 - 04:52 PM

#28

i should of been more clear.. he used to be a mechanic at a yamaha dealership for i don't know how many years but quite a few.. he graduated top of his class in the 90's for his motorbike engine class or whatever it was but i seen his plaques when he installed my motor last year (charged me $200 for a motor swap.. not sure if thats good or not?).. he knows what he's doing he's just kind of a drunk now i think...

and melk-man i really am up in the northern boonies haha.. there's no sanctioned motocross up here.. this town just installed a solid dirt bike track just last year for the public.. it's 120 a year for a track pass.. but the only people up here are people with dirt bikes, quads, and sleds lol.. no professional riders at all.

i'm waiting for AS racing to send me my rims and then i will hopefully get buddy to do my top end for me.. either that or i have no choice but to let the honda or yamaha shops do it for me and those are last resorts.

i do have a pdf verion manual on my bike now but my brother is coming back up north in a month or so so i'll make sure he brings me the real manual when he comes

  • Shawn_Mc

Posted 19 May 2011 - 08:01 PM

#29

Told ya decent mechanics like beer....

Nothing wrong with the pdf version. Just print up the pages you need.

Better yet, go read your PDF version about 30 times. Then go look at the bike. It'll seem like you've done it before!

  • GoBollzD33P

Posted 19 May 2011 - 08:31 PM

#30

better yet i'll take my laptop with me when i look at it lol then i have the whole manual right there in my hands!

hey how can i take my chain off using only basic hand tools? since my bike is down i want to soak my chain in diesel and give it a good cleaning

  • MELK-MAN

Posted 19 May 2011 - 09:30 PM

#31

GoBollzD33P said:

better yet i'll take my laptop with me when i look at it lol then i have the whole manual right there in my hands!

hey how can i take my chain off using only basic hand tools? since my bike is down i want to soak my chain in diesel and give it a good cleaning

nope, as Shawn suggested PRINT the manual out. There is nothing worse than struggling through a manual on a computer screen. Please take our word for this.. Let alone getting grease all over the keyboard, dropping some gas onto it, dropping the computer itself.. It just isn't worth the trouble. Print it out, but hey.. it's your party so do what ya want :smirk:

ah man.. don't get me started on cleaning a chain.. :smirk: Topic seems to get a life of it's own. 10 pages, min. Seriously, do a search and ya can have some fun.

  • GoBollzD33P

Posted 19 May 2011 - 10:02 PM

#32

lol i know how to clean it i just need to know how to remove the damn thing using basic hand tools... i tried the other day with a flathead screwdriver but that was a no go.. it got frustrating to say the least.. i have no specialty tools and i wanna clean it right and not while it's on the bike.

now that i think about it... i probly would get my laptop all full of grease and oil... good call.

  • MELK-MAN

Posted 20 May 2011 - 05:21 AM

#33

GoBollzD33P said:

lol i know how to clean it i just need to know how to remove the damn thing using basic hand tools... i tried the other day with a flathead screwdriver but that was a no go.. it got frustrating to say the least.. i have no specialty tools and i wanna clean it right and not while it's on the bike.

now that i think about it... i probly would get my laptop all full of grease and oil... good call.

few people clean the chain off the bike, do a search and will find a hundred ways people clean the chain. my prefered method is spray wd40, grab chain with rag..spin wheel. Spray with your fav lube (but i don't use any lube, just wd40). Again, not to derail the thread but there are many threads on chain cleaning. :smirk:

  • GoBollzD33P

Posted 20 May 2011 - 06:07 AM

#34

i want to take the chain off and throw it in a pail with diesel.. get it nice and clean then wipe all the excess off with a rag and blow the chain with a air wand.. then let it sit for the night.. then lube it up and put it back on

  • bigbore2

Posted 20 May 2011 - 02:53 PM

#35

Thanx Shawn, for answering each of my questions in detail.

  • Boonus

Posted 21 May 2011 - 04:23 PM

#36

vlad7890:10356444 said:

What do you think Honda did when assembling your motor in the factory, putting the top end together dry? And if they did why would they say oil it in the manual? Why for the world would you do it differently than what the OEM manual calls for, your bike didn't break in properly when you bought it new?

When the factory teams are questioned on their break in procedure the common answer seems to be run the bike in moderation 3 times for 10-15 min and let it cool down completely after each run. It shouldn't be run or rev'd full out but there should be enough load on the motor to seat the rings. Not constant load but accelerating and decelerating which helps to press the rings against the cylinder wall. After the 3 break in rounds ride it like you stole it.

x1

Hell yea man. Gotta put some decent load on the engine to properly seat the rings. Service manual specifically states not to let the bike idle too long or run at low rpm for prolonged periods during break in...so letting the bike idle till it pukes coolant during break-in probably isnt a very good idea...




 
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