new top end break in cycle?
Posted 18 May 2011 - 04:39 PM
Quote
Honestly, this isn't about you.
Ballzdeep,
Its only complicated when you listen to more than one person. People pay me to do engine work for them. There is a reason why my bench is usually cluttered with engines and suspension. Because people keep telling other people....shits gotten a little out of control really...
Ive never had a top end come back.
Go buy a torque wrench. A 3/8's drive that goes to 100 ft. lbs is plenty.
Ive explained how I do it.
Its the way you should do it if you want it to run good and last.
Take the cylinder to the shop to get honed. Once its honed, wash it out with hot soap and water, then go through the cylinder with ATF on a white rag. You may get more grit out, but when its clean, just wipe the cylinder out with a paper towel. That will leave a trace of ATF in there to prevent any corrosion while you assemble it. Oil the piston pin. If you feel you must oil the piston, you can put a smear with a finger on the skirt. Don't oil the ring pack!!
Posted 18 May 2011 - 09:52 PM
but what i think is really holding me back is that i really HATE doing something myself until i've seen it done right.. if i've seen a piston changed right on i'll follow what he did and what not but until then i don't wanna screw up.
i'll ask a guy to do it for me and i'll see what he does, make sure he does it the right way and i'll watch him closely and see what is involved in this
Posted 19 May 2011 - 07:22 AM
GoBollzD33P said:
but what i think is really holding me back is that i really HATE doing something myself until i've seen it done right.. if i've seen a piston changed right on i'll follow what he did and what not but until then i don't wanna screw up.
i'll ask a guy to do it for me and i'll see what he does, make sure he does it the right way and i'll watch him closely and see what is involved in this
.. he better be a good friend:ride: Most builders won't want someone hawking over them, A) makes some nervous
Perhaps you could pay extra to have a "lesson" during the build, but unless your Einstien smart, you won't pick up on everything in one sitting. Good builders are always learning stuff themself. There are some pretty darn important steps to doing it right, miss one critical step and the engine can be junk. I applaud you for wanting to learn though. I personally have a couple businesses to run and lots of riding to do, so don't mind having my suspension and internal engine stuff done by guys that know more about it than me. Enjoy! but keep in mind what i said, earlier. If he does allow you to watch, keep questions to a minimum.. if you see steam coming from his ears, take a couple steps back and give a few minutes before any more questions:smirk: Um, very detailed shop manual would be in order too no? If a torque wrench isnt' even in the budget .. i fear your riding days may be limited on this machine.
Posted 19 May 2011 - 08:31 AM
Posted 19 May 2011 - 03:16 PM
GoBollzD33P said:
try getting to know some local riders.. see how does work on the side. It really pays to have someone familiar with this "race engings" (like it or not, that is pretty much what the crf motor is..) vs. a small engine lawn mower repair guy.. Someone in your area has to do decent work on the side. No matter what, it is likely gonna not be cheap. Fact of life in motorsports.
Posted 19 May 2011 - 04:41 PM
GoBollzD33P said:
Buy a case of beer and invite the guy to look over YOUR shoulder while you do the work. Ask him nicely to bring his torque wrench.
Buy a Service manual first. When you run into a situation where something isnt obvious refer to the manual with your Mechanic buddy. If you dont understand it, he probably will. He probably wont even read it tho. He'll glance at the pic's and say "Do X"
Any decent mechanic is almost powerless against free beer by the way...
Posted 19 May 2011 - 04:52 PM
and melk-man i really am up in the northern boonies haha.. there's no sanctioned motocross up here.. this town just installed a solid dirt bike track just last year for the public.. it's 120 a year for a track pass.. but the only people up here are people with dirt bikes, quads, and sleds lol.. no professional riders at all.
i'm waiting for AS racing to send me my rims and then i will hopefully get buddy to do my top end for me.. either that or i have no choice but to let the honda or yamaha shops do it for me and those are last resorts.
i do have a pdf verion manual on my bike now but my brother is coming back up north in a month or so so i'll make sure he brings me the real manual when he comes
Posted 19 May 2011 - 08:01 PM
Nothing wrong with the pdf version. Just print up the pages you need.
Better yet, go read your PDF version about 30 times. Then go look at the bike. It'll seem like you've done it before!
Posted 19 May 2011 - 09:30 PM
GoBollzD33P said:
hey how can i take my chain off using only basic hand tools? since my bike is down i want to soak my chain in diesel and give it a good cleaning
nope, as Shawn suggested PRINT the manual out. There is nothing worse than struggling through a manual on a computer screen. Please take our word for this.. Let alone getting grease all over the keyboard, dropping some gas onto it, dropping the computer itself.. It just isn't worth the trouble. Print it out, but hey.. it's your party so do what ya want
ah man.. don't get me started on cleaning a chain..
Posted 19 May 2011 - 10:02 PM
now that i think about it... i probly would get my laptop all full of grease and oil... good call.
Posted 20 May 2011 - 05:21 AM
GoBollzD33P said:
now that i think about it... i probly would get my laptop all full of grease and oil... good call.
few people clean the chain off the bike, do a search and will find a hundred ways people clean the chain. my prefered method is spray wd40, grab chain with rag..spin wheel. Spray with your fav lube (but i don't use any lube, just wd40). Again, not to derail the thread but there are many threads on chain cleaning.
Posted 20 May 2011 - 06:07 AM
Posted 21 May 2011 - 04:23 PM
vlad7890:10356444 said:
When the factory teams are questioned on their break in procedure the common answer seems to be run the bike in moderation 3 times for 10-15 min and let it cool down completely after each run. It shouldn't be run or rev'd full out but there should be enough load on the motor to seat the rings. Not constant load but accelerating and decelerating which helps to press the rings against the cylinder wall. After the 3 break in rounds ride it like you stole it.
x1
Hell yea man. Gotta put some decent load on the engine to properly seat the rings. Service manual specifically states not to let the bike idle too long or run at low rpm for prolonged periods during break in...so letting the bike idle till it pukes coolant during break-in probably isnt a very good idea...








