2003 YZF450 Purchase help needed


45 replies to this topic
  • Bobbed06

Posted May 17, 2011 - 06:24 PM

#21

I am removing the carb now as I have already removed the subframe.

What is the trick to get the hot start plunger out?? I unthreaded it and it just feels stuck, i tried some wd 40 down the hole and its still stuck. I didnt pull it very hard for fear of damaging it. Taking a few mins to relax, help appreciated here,,,,

Thanks for the tool info gray. :smirk:

  • grayracer513

Posted May 17, 2011 - 07:35 PM

#22

It might be stuck. And that can be a problem. For the time being, separate the cable at the top by removing the lever pivot and pull the whole cable out with the carb. There is a drilled passage leading from the slide well to the bore where the plunger is, and you can apply penetrants here as well as from over the top of the plunger.

Worst case, I've had to drill and tap the plunger so I could thread a screw into it to use as a puller to remove it.

Try a product called PB Blaster from the AP store.

  • Bobbed06

Posted May 17, 2011 - 08:16 PM

#23

It might be stuck. And that can be a problem. For the time being, separate the cable at the top by removing the lever pivot and pull the whole cable out with the carb. There is a drilled passage leading from the slide well to the bore where the plunger is, and you can apply penetrants here as well as from over the top of the plunger.

Worst case, I've had to drill and tap the plunger so I could thread a screw into it to use as a puller to remove it.

Try a product called PB Blaster from the AP store.


Thats what I did however I discovered that the plastic hot start lever on the handlebars was already broken where someone tried to pull it with the plunger stuck so I need a lever also... :smirk:

I removed the cable from the perch and removed the carb with the hot start installed. I unthreaded the plastic cap and am soaking it in PB Blaster. I must have pulled a tad too hard as the brass barrell that is stuck spread open a tad and the cable popped out. So now I have just the barrell in there to deal with, however it remains intact. It looks as if I should replace this piece now as I am afraid to reuse it. I found the plunger on the online microfiche so I guess its sold seperately. Thats good

I did not notice the drilled passage from the side that you mentioned so I will look into that tomorrow as well..

Now tomorrow when I go back to it, Should I just grab it with pliers and pull on it?? Or can I try spinning it with a screwdriver? Whats best for a first attempt here?

If I do have to resort to drilling it what size bit did you use? Did you actually run a tap into it and thread it or did you use a self tapping screw?

I guess this is a common problem so I shouldnt be bummed out, but I still am.
Off to the online microfiche so I can add parts to the list.....As always Thank You for helping me.

  • Bobbed06

Posted May 17, 2011 - 09:37 PM

#24

Heres a pic of the air filter. Trying a new photobucket acct
Posted Image

  • grayracer513

Posted May 18, 2011 - 07:01 AM

#25

Now tomorrow when I go back to it, Should I just grab it with pliers and pull on it?? Or can I try spinning it with a screwdriver? Whats best for a first attempt here?

If I do have to resort to drilling it what size bit did you use? Did you actually run a tap into it and thread it or did you use a self tapping screw?

If you are attentive, and you have a propane torch, AND the carb is dry, you might consider applying some heat judiciously to the carb body before trying to free the plunger. Metal no hotter than what makes spit bounce (scientific, ain't it?), and wear gloves. Any means of dislodging it that doesn't damage the bore is good, but remember to leave the plunger in a good enough condition that you can drill it if it comes to that. Rotating with a screwdriver is an option.

Once you get it out, be certain to brush away all traces of the corrosion with a brass pistol brush and some penetrating oil, or the stuff will "grow back".

I don't recall what size I used exactly, but I think I started with a #6x32 thread, thinking that if I honked that up I could go to a #8 screw after that. I used a long, fully threaded screw and drew the plunger out by turning a nut down on a washer on top of the bore.

  • Bobbed06

Posted May 18, 2011 - 10:13 AM

#26

Well I didnt strip down the carb to a bare body so I am afraid of using the torch.... But I will try using a soldering iron to apply heat locally.

Now I am completely nervous about this.. Do these bikes require a hot start?? If I am unable to get this out will the carb be trashed?

  • beezer

Posted May 18, 2011 - 10:53 AM

#27

Their are 18 million FCR carbs on eBay.

I've never needed the hot start on my 450.

Nice bike, my 03 was always my favorite 4 stroke.

  • Bobbed06

Posted May 18, 2011 - 12:02 PM

#28

Their are 18 million FCR carbs on eBay.

I've never needed the hot start on my 450.

Nice bike, my 03 was always my favorite 4 stroke.


I did just check on ebay for carb prices but I would be willing to bet that many of them also have a stuck Hot Start plunger also, and they are around $250.00 which I would much rather use toward upgrades than carb replacement.

Are you saying I can block it off and forget about it? Thats fine with me if I a can do that. Please confirm this.

On a somewhat related topic I built a big bore, hot cammed, ported, 400 ex and removed the choke completely from the carb. Being a pumper carb I just gave the throttle a couple of squirts and the quad started easily no matter if it was 32f or 90f. So that confirms that sometimes there are items on a carb that are NOT needed.

Maybe I should start a thread about this topic, maybe I will get more feedback regarding this topic. Not that I dont have complete confidence in Grayracers info regarding fixing it properly, I just want confidence in knowing if I botch the removal I dont have to drop coin on a new or used carb to get up and running again.

  • beezer

Posted May 18, 2011 - 12:08 PM

#29

and the quad started easily


I don't like you anymore.

  • Bobbed06

Posted May 18, 2011 - 12:12 PM

#30

I don't like you anymore.


Why?? Did I say something wrong?

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  • grayracer513

Posted May 18, 2011 - 12:17 PM

#31

A 400ex is not enough like a YZ450 to be discussed in the same breath.

What the hot start does is to open an air bleed from the slide well to the intake port so as to lean the mixture during hot starting. It's mostly only necessary during restarts attempting immediately following a stall or crash, so if you have time to wait for it to cool off, you probably won't ever need it. Or, you can master the technique of holding the throttle very slightly opened as you kick, but you could get whacked in the foot that way if things don't go right.

The passage is basically blocked off right now. But just fix it. it will be better. If you do replace the carb for some reason, get one from an '05 or later. They're a small step up.

  • Bobbed06

Posted May 18, 2011 - 12:23 PM

#32

Ok, I am off to the garage then. :smirk: I plan on racing this bike and I definitely want it to restart immediately in the event of a stall.

  • beezer

Posted May 18, 2011 - 02:54 PM

#33

[QUOTEquad ][/QUOTE]



Quote:
Originally Posted by beezer
I don't like you anymore.

Why?? Did I say something wrong?


No just a reflex action to the word "quad".

If my fuel screw is set right I usually don't ever use the hot start. An adjustable fuel screw and understanding how it works makes a big difference in how the bike starts.

One of the reasons why I like my 03 is that it always starts even in 0 degree weather.

  • Bobbed06

Posted May 18, 2011 - 03:04 PM

#34




Quote:
Originally Posted by beezer
I don't like you anymore.

Why?? Did I say something wrong?


No just a reflex action to the word "quad".

If my fuel screw is set right I usually don't ever use the hot start. An adjustable fuel screw and understanding how it works makes a big difference in how the bike starts.

One of the reasons why I like my 03 is that it always starts even in 0 degree weather.


Oh, Ok
I only dabbled in quads for a short time. I thought that by switching from MX to quads would keep me more sane and prevent me from jumping big stuff.... That is until I came up short on a step up on my 400 EX 4th gear pinned several times and was never able to clear the jump. I sold out in 07 and stayed out of any form of off road until now.

So far no luck in removing the plunger from the carb..... Decision time I guess

  • Bobbed06

Posted May 18, 2011 - 06:58 PM

#35

After several attempts at removing the plunger I was unsuccessful. The plunger is still in tact and I have not resorted to drilling it yet.

Question.... Can I remove that freeze plug type plug on the side of the hot start bore and gain access to a better shot at the plunger?? Would that freeze plug be something I could buy and reinstall after I removed the plunger?

  • Bobbed06

Posted May 22, 2011 - 01:25 PM

#36

OK Grayracer, I decided today to remove the stuck Hot Start plunger. I went to Lowes and bought a 4-40 drill bit/tap combo and some 4-40 x 1 1/4 bolts/nuts/and washers. I started the drilling with a tiny unknown new bit for a pilot hole and moved up to the 4-40 bit. Taking my time and verifying I was drilling Brass ONLY and had not reached the bottom of the carb with the drill bit. Once I reached a depth of a tad over 1/4 inch I thought that was deep enough and tapped the plunger.

I decided on NO heat if I could get away with that. So the plunger came right out with NO heat needed. I have thoroughly cleaned the bore and all looks well. The carb is cleaned and I will order all of my Yamaha parts tomorrow from the TT store. I have decided to replace ALL of the rubber parts since the machine has such low hours on it.

I want to say THANK YOU to Grayracer, Educkett, Beezer and any other TTers that helped me gain the needed knowledge to complete this job. I am extremely happy about saving this carb. Money is tight and I have to pinch pennies everywhere.

:lol: :smirk::smirk::lol::prof::lol::lol:

Edited by Bobbed06, May 22, 2011 - 01:53 PM.


  • crustyrdr

Posted May 22, 2011 - 05:36 PM

#37

I have a 03 yz450 ride mostly mx set my fork n shock 4 my weight the bottom end resonse is crazy sometimes when its real hot it might take a few kicks 2 start just don't stall it I never even use the hot start if acts likew it does not wantr crank leave ir along 4 a few mins

  • Bobbed06

Posted May 22, 2011 - 05:40 PM

#38

I have a 03 yz450 ride mostly mx set my fork n shock 4 my weight the bottom end resonse is crazy sometimes when its real hot it might take a few kicks 2 start just don't stall it I never even use the hot start if acts likew it does not wantr crank leave ir along 4 a few mins


Thats good to know, however I just wanted it fixed properly for peace of mind. I am glad you like yours. I am sure its gonna be plenty fast and competitive at the local levels I will race in.

  • Bobbed06

Posted May 23, 2011 - 06:40 PM

#39

Well, I finally found the time to place my order with TT. It is my first time ordering from the TT Store so I dont know what kind of time frame I should expect as far as recieving about 20 OEM carb bits and some misc bolts and a exhaust gasket for an extra. I have read many excellent reviews from the TT customers so I am at ease with that.
I was pleasantly surprised to discover that not only can I read and absorb knowledge here but I can also buy my parts at great prices too!! The store was easy to create an account for and was very efficient.
TT :smirk:

I guess I am gonna spend this next weeks spare time cleaning up the engine cases, and detail the machine as I teardown the various subassemblies for greasing.

  • Bobbed06

Posted May 31, 2011 - 12:09 PM

#40

Recieved all of the OEM bits I had ordered from the Thumpertalk store. These guys are on point. I ordered on the day I posted last, and recieved them all today even with the Holiday.

I plan on building the carb tonight. Thanks TT Store :smirk:





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