Rekluse EXP 2.0


23 replies to this topic
  • Mike546

Posted May 11, 2011 - 04:42 PM

#1

I put the new Rekluse EXP 2.0 in my 2010 RMZ 450 last week and I couldn't be happier. It's the workings that the Core EXP uses but it doesn't come with the basket or pressure plate and it cost $399 instead of $800. It only took 10 minutes to install. The clutch pull feels normal and I can lock up the back wheel without the bike stalling. I've got about 4 hours on it without a hiccup. :thumbsup:

  • Bruce372

Posted May 11, 2011 - 05:48 PM

#2

cool- thanks dude...more info please???

how many plates do you have to take out? do you run the OEM springs??? any pictures?

i think i might pull the trigger on this one- ive been on smokers for years, this is my first thumper- on big fast tracks its such a great bike to ride, but on tighter/jumpier tracks the stalling kills my confidence, i put the hydro clutch on from my RM250 it helped a lot but the stalling is still there.

  • Mike546

Posted May 11, 2011 - 06:16 PM

#3

You take out 3 fiber and 2 steel plates, so you end up with 5 fiber plus the EXP disc which has fiber on both sides. It also comes with new clutch springs and small adjustment springs. You better call them about the hyd clutch because you have to take all of the slack out of the cable. They make them for KTM's so I doubt if it's a problem. It comes with a 30 day money back guarantee so you cant go wrong. If you don't like it send it back.

  • Bruce372

Posted May 11, 2011 - 06:25 PM

#4

cool- thanks!

  • MXer911

Posted May 12, 2011 - 06:28 AM

#5

Can this model still be used as a regular clutch?

  • Endoair

Posted May 12, 2011 - 07:01 AM

#6

I just put the full Core EXP 2.0 in my 2011 and so far (only 1 ride, about an hour) it is the best mod I have done. The only thing that I need to get used to is the abrupt acceleration coming out of corners. Where before I would be feeding clutch and the front would rail, now it wants to push a bit. I suspect this is because the front is being "unloaded" by the abrupt power as opposed to the smooth clutching. I can still use the clutch to overcome this but it's still something I noticed. Overall, I would highly recommend it. Left arm pump is almost completely gone.

  • todds

Posted May 12, 2011 - 07:16 AM

#7

I just put the 2.0 in my YZ 250 2stroke and could not be happier. I already had a 13oz fly wheel weight so I left it in just to see how it worked and it and it is a blast on the single track stuff. I also had the chance to go over to Rekluse over in Boise and meet the guys and see there operation and they went above and beyond in making me feel that I had puchased a quality product that they are very proud of. It is super easy to install and set up and only took me about a hour to be 100% spoiled.

  • idahojoe

Posted May 12, 2011 - 07:20 AM

#8

You take out 3 fiber and 2 steel plates, so you end up with 5 fiber plus the EXP disc which has fiber on both sides. It also comes with new clutch springs and small adjustment springs. You better call them about the hyd clutch because you have to take all of the slack out of the cable. They make them for KTM's so I doubt if it's a problem. It comes with a 30 day money back guarantee so you cant go wrong. If you don't like it send it back.


This is a good question.
If you have a bike that has a cable clutch stock, you have to use the cable set up with the Rekluse EXP($399), but not Core EXP($899.) The reason is EXP relies on the clutch lever and cable to set the gap in the system so the exp can function properly.
With Core EXP, the gap is set internally via the pressure plate adjuster provided in the kit.

  • idahojoe

Posted May 12, 2011 - 07:22 AM

#9

I just put the full Core EXP 2.0 in my 2011 and so far (only 1 ride, about an hour) it is the best mod I have done. The only thing that I need to get used to is the abrupt acceleration coming out of corners. Where before I would be feeding clutch and the front would rail, now it wants to push a bit. I suspect this is because the front is being "unloaded" by the abrupt power as opposed to the smooth clutching. I can still use the clutch to overcome this but it's still something I noticed. Overall, I would highly recommend it. Left arm pump is almost completely gone.


You may want to try a "light" wedge kit, it will soften the hit of the clutch and make it smoother.

  • Bruce372

Posted May 12, 2011 - 09:23 AM

#10

Joe- great to have you on board.

Can i use the EXP with my magura hydro clutch on the RMZ450?

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • idahojoe

Posted May 12, 2011 - 10:29 AM

#11

It's great to be here, I've been here for a while anyways, now it's part of my job description. I'm a lucky person!

Negative on EXP with the Magura set up. It's necessary to put tension on the cable via the perch and lever to create the gap.

Some guys are like, "What about KTM, they have hydraulic clutches?"
The answer is an additional part in the clutch kit itself which is adjustable for the gap.
I hope this clear and helps.
IdahoJoe

  • Bruce372

Posted May 12, 2011 - 11:06 AM

#12

It's great to be here, I've been here for a while anyways, now it's part of my job description. I'm a lucky person!

Negative on EXP with the Magura set up. It's necessary to put tension on the cable via the perch and lever to create the gap.

Some guys are like, "What about KTM, they have hydraulic clutches?"
The answer is an additional part in the clutch kit itself which is adjustable for the gap.
I hope this clear and helps.
IdahoJoe



Joe- maybe my brain isnt working right and i am not following, will the EXP work with the hydro clutch, or would i have to go back to a cable setup?

  • Mike546

Posted May 12, 2011 - 02:51 PM

#13

Can this model still be used as a regular clutch?


MXer I still use it like a regular clutch, the reason I got it is for the anti stall aspect. If you've ever stalled your bike on the last lap of a race you know what I mean, kick kick kick as everyone passes you.

  • Mike546

Posted May 12, 2011 - 02:53 PM

#14

Bruce I think he's saying that you have to use the cable set up. There is an extra part that comes in the KTM setup for their hydraulic clutch.

  • OrbaBill

Posted May 21, 2011 - 09:18 AM

#15

You don't have to use a cable with KTM's. On bikes with a cable clutch, you adjust the clutch cable to get the proper gap. With a KTM, the EXP comes with an adjuster for the pressure plate to make that adjustment, that is the difference.

  • Miller618

Posted May 22, 2011 - 07:01 PM

#16

I have 2 questions. Both of them probably stupid..but anyway..

1. If you bring the bike to a complete stop with an auto-clutch, will it idle in gear? Any gear?
2. If it does idle while in gear at a stand still, is it operated like a snowmbile where at a certain RPM the bike takes off? Or do you still start/stop with the clutch? (i know you can use the clutch the same as if you didnt have an auto-clutch)

I never have done much research on them because i have never really wanted to spend 800 dollars on a part for my bike. So it really was out of the question. The 400 is a little more reasonable. And, i had the most miserable mud fest of a harescramble today and an auto-clutch is really starting to sound good.

  • Chas_M

Posted May 22, 2011 - 09:44 PM

#17

I have 2 questions. Both of them probably stupid..but anyway..

1. If you bring the bike to a complete stop with an auto-clutch, will it idle in gear? Any gear?
2. If it does idle while in gear at a stand still, is it operated like a snowmobile where at a certain RPM the bike takes off? Or do you still start/stop with the clutch? (i know you can use the clutch the same as if you didn't have an auto-clutch)


Yes to both questions. These are the basic standard functions of the auto clutch. This means that with the auto clutch it is basically impossible to stall the engine.

  • Kah Ran Nee

Posted May 23, 2011 - 07:48 PM

#18

If the engagement is happening at too high of an rpm / too abruptly, try changing the blue springs on one side for Red springs. That's all I did, and it works amazingly well. It engages right above idle, nice and smoothly.

The auto clutch is invisible, until you come to a near stop (where your bike would normally stall) or if you are in a gear to high (where it would normally stall). The best thing about it is you can go into a corner in a gear too high, and use lots of throttle with NO WHEEL SPIN. If you want wheel spin, just use the correct gear. Makes flat slippery corners so easy.

The clutch pull is 15% stiffer, and the adjustment of the lever position is no longer possible with the stock lever. I went to a adjustable lever, and it's perfect.

  • DRZ04

Posted May 31, 2011 - 08:15 PM

#19

I put the EXP 2.0 in my DRZ435 set up for SM and put about 15 miles around town on it. It took a little but before I understood how to adjust the clutch pre-load but once I understood it was easy to adjust. I called Rekluse and told them the problem I was having & it ended up being the pre-load adjustment. They were very helpful in explaining what I didn't understand from the instruction manual. You have to per-load it way beyond what you are use to with a regular clutch cable. I had to pull 3 fiber discs & 2 metal discs. I found myself sitting at a stop sign in gear idling with my hand off the clutch then with my hand still off the clutch just gas it & pull away. I think it is going to be the hot set up off road for me atleast.

  • bomax

Posted May 31, 2011 - 08:44 PM

#20

hey what are you guys using for clutch levers? i have a 2.0 in my 11 crf250r and the pull is super stiff.i was gonna try the moose ultimate clutch perch.anyone run the arc lever?




 
x

Join Our Community!

Even if you don't want to post, registered members get access to tools that make finding & following the good stuff easier.

If you enjoyed reading about "" here in the ThumperTalk archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join ThumperTalk today!

The views and opinions expressed on this page are strictly those of the author, and have not been reviewed or approved by ThumperTalk.