'07 XR650L Fuel Injection Project

132 replies to this topic
  • martin t

Posted 09 January 2012 - 11:14 AM

#81

I have been looking around for a suitable COP do you have any to share or have you not decided which one to use yet?
Today i went downtown to do some shopping and came home with something i had not planned for at all:

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Wiseco forged 11:1 piston (sale at a friends shop, 50% discount :bonk:)

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  • uberhada

Posted 20 January 2012 - 05:05 PM

#82

The COP unit and connector arrived yesterday, I'm anxious to get everything back together and test it out.
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  • uberhada

Posted 28 January 2012 - 08:34 PM

#83

A little progress :smirk: I got the side cover back on, the COP wired in and a basic setup in the software. Just short of running with ignition at this point, it fires but not quite up-and-running yet.

Checking the base timing was interesting: If you crank the motor with the timing hole plug out it'll shoot oil a good six feet across the garage :bonk:

I went looking for a "sight plug" of some kind but found none for the L, just for Harrley and Goldwing. One of those might have fit but no guarantees. (One was over $35! :lol: ) I also didn't want to wait another week to find out...

So, I picked up some clear plastic rod, cut some threads on it and polished the ends.

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Optically it could use a little more polish, but it seems to work pretty well.

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  • jjast

Posted 28 January 2012 - 09:27 PM

#84

Cool! I like it.

  • uberhada

Posted 03 February 2012 - 11:25 PM

#85

Just a quick update- It's been a little frustrating learning the software, but I made some headway tonight
with the ignition and got it running! :bonk:

I plan to spend tomorrow dialing it in, hopefully I'll have something good to report.

  • Captain Midnight

Posted 04 February 2012 - 10:45 AM

#86

For all my COP setups for XRL's, I get a longer valve cover bolt and bolt the COP to the valve cover through the COP's original hold down hole.

  • uberhada

Posted 05 February 2012 - 11:31 AM

#87

View PostCaptain Midnight, on 04 February 2012 - 10:45 AM, said:

For all my COP setups for XRL's, I get a longer valve cover bolt and bolt the COP to the valve cover through the COP's original hold down hole.

I was thinking of putting a stud or piece of allthread in there, so that the coil could be unbolted independently of the cover bolt.
It would be a lot easier just to get a bolt though, did you use a specific grade?

  • Captain Midnight

Posted 05 February 2012 - 09:42 PM

#88

I cut and welded the original, but I like the nut idea.

  • uberhada

Posted 05 February 2012 - 10:41 PM

#89

View PostCaptain Midnight, on 05 February 2012 - 09:42 PM, said:

I cut and welded the original, but I like the nut idea.
Ah, I see. I really need to get a welder :bonk:
There's an excellent fastener store nearby, I'll see if they have something I can use.

I did a temporary wire-up tonight, it should be good to go until I can get some loom and pins to and remake the connectors. Tomorrow I can take the bike out and test the ignition running the stock timing curve. :lol:

Curious, where is everyone getting their wiring products?

  • uberhada

Posted 06 February 2012 - 03:45 PM

#90

The test ride went well, it feels the same as the stock ignition, so I can move on to setting up the more advanced timing features like MAP and temperature advance. Still figuring out the knock sensor, but that should be coming up soon.

I can probably sell the stock CDI, since I've committed the wiring now and don't foresee going back to it.

Man it felt good to :bonk: I've been without the bike for too long, that's been one of the toughest parts of the project.

  • Captain Midnight

Posted 08 February 2012 - 02:09 PM

#91

Yippie, good for you. Looks like it's coming along.

  • uberhada

Posted 08 February 2012 - 03:32 PM

#92

So, the Ford COP typically fires plugs gapped at .054, that's 1.5x our stock gap of .036 which fires easily.
I'm still running the stock plug but I think the gap could be opened up a bit, either that or try to find a different plug.

I also needed to make a terminal nut for the end of the stock plug to accommodate the coil, since the local auto parts guy had no idea what I was talking about :bonk: . I removed the solid terminal end form an old jeep plug I had laying about, drilled and tapped it to fit the plug threads. I see they can be ordered on line, now that I know what to call them.

View PostCaptain Midnight, on 08 February 2012 - 02:09 PM, said:

Yippie, good for you. Looks like it's coming along.
What did you end up doing for your plugs?

  • uberhada

Posted 13 February 2012 - 10:39 PM

#93

It was an interesting weekend, good news and bad news.

The Good:

I made a small crossplate to bolt down the coil until I come up with a longer valve cover bolt. I think it looks pretty happy in there. Thanks again CaptainMidnight for another brilliant mod.

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I decided on a mounting spot for the computer, inspired by Spud's battery relocation thread that's been in the forum list recently.
Need to clean up the wiring yet.

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And I spent some time dialing in the ignition in TunerStudio. Set the rev limiter and have a little advance/retard for startup, temperature and MAP load. However, the MAP signal seemed a little weaker than expected...which leads me to the bad...

  • uberhada

Posted 13 February 2012 - 10:58 PM

#94

The Bad:

Looking back, I would occasionally hear a little "PAFF!" noise while cranking the engine, usually when it was cold. I figured this was just a misfire from not having the choke set just right or a little backfire into the header or exhaust leak. Then, one time, while cranking with the gas tank off, I not only heard the noise but saw a little spray shoot out near the header. Exhaust leak right? :bonk:

Looking around the header I see a little oil on the fins, I figure this is from when I removed the valve cover and oil ran down the side of the motor, and the exhaust leak sprayed this oil. I'm in denial at this point. Looking between the fins I see a small scorch mark.

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Not easy to get a good shot of.

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  • uberhada

Posted 13 February 2012 - 11:19 PM

#95

So, reluctantly I get out the compression gauge and start the motor to get it warmed up.

60lbs with the decompressor (should be 92lbs per the manual)
100lbs without the decompressor (should be 199lbs per the manual)

So, I've only got half compression. I figure I'm going to need at least a head gasket.

And then there's the tiny specs on the plug (I should have looked more closely before).

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So, now I'm expecting the piston to be partially eaten and maybe some damage to the cylinder, hopefully not the head.
Any speculation or opinions? I won't know anything until I get in there and see.

  • uberhada

Posted 15 February 2012 - 06:29 PM

#96

I pulled the head at lunch today, didn't really find anything out of the ordinary :bonk:

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So, I'm going to pull the cylinder, have it checked, honed, add new rings, clean the head and move on.
I'll get back to cleaning up the wiring in the meantime.

  • uberhada

Posted 16 February 2012 - 02:03 PM

#97

Gaskets, Rings and Knocksense on order.

Here's a shot of the terminal nut I needed to make: Jeep plug on the left, XR plug on the right with threaded electrode and the drilled and tapped terminal nuts.

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  • HeadTrauma

Posted 16 February 2012 - 06:24 PM

#98

View Postuberhada, on 13 February 2012 - 11:19 PM, said:

So, reluctantly I get out the compression gauge and start the motor to get it warmed up.

60lbs with the decompressor (should be 92lbs per the manual)
100lbs without the decompressor (should be 199lbs per the manual)

So, I've only got half compression. I figure I'm going to need at least a head gasket.

And then there's the tiny specs on the plug (I should have looked more closely before).

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So, now I'm expecting the piston to be partially eaten and maybe some damage to the cylinder, hopefully not the head.
Any speculation or opinions? I won't know anything until I get in there and see.

I don't see anything that conclusively points toward pinging, although the white exhaust valves do imply a lean condition. I have had tiny beads of ash show up on the plug and look mighty similar to aluminum...

  • uberhada

Posted 16 February 2012 - 07:01 PM

#99

View PostHeadTrauma, on 16 February 2012 - 06:24 PM, said:

I don't see anything that conclusively points toward pinging, although the white exhaust valves do imply a lean condition. I have had tiny beads of ash show up on the plug and look mighty similar to aluminum...


Yeah, I thought it was aluminum. I've never seen pinging damage first hand, so I couldn't really tell, not sure I could now either actually.
I don't recall hearing any pinging either, just a bit of a pessimist I suppose.

  • jjast

Posted 17 February 2012 - 10:04 PM


View Postuberhada, on 16 February 2012 - 02:03 PM, said:

Here's a shot of the terminal nut I needed to make: Jeep plug on the left, XR plug on the right with threaded electrode and the drilled and tapped terminal nuts.

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I almost have to laugh about how you had to MAKE a terminal nut for the spark plug but I understand when you need something and have the ability to make it to do so, it's just that growing up I would have a dozen of those in my misc container because every threaded head spark plug used to have a terminal nut in the box with the new spark plug...I guess it's just another way they are cutting cost by not providing those anymore.
I can guarantee I have at least two of those out in my garage right now but once again I commend you on the quick ability to manufacture what you did not have readily available.



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