New Rear Sprocket

[slowrider]

I was looking at adding a few additional teeth to the rear sprocket to get a little lower end for hare scrambles and some tight trails. Not very Mechanically inclined so not absoulety sure of the result of this. Any good sprockets out there for this application. How many teeth should I add?? Do you need to replace both sprockets at the same time? Thanks for your help Not sure what I would do without this site. You guys are awesome.

[Amador]

Hey Slowrider,

If your willing to sacrafice some top end you can go pretty large on the rear sprocket. I use a 51t for MX but it works pretty well on the trail as well. I imagine that for a hare scramble you might want to go even bigger. Maybe a 53-55t. You don't have to change the front sprocket if you don't want to. Esentially, going smaller on the front is the same as going bigger on the back. Make sure and buy a chain long enough to handle the bigger sprocket. One link per tooth is the rule of thumb. Good luck. I hope this info helps.

[emcdan]

Hey slowrider... I've been trying some different combos lately. Don't change front sprocket..my opinion too much torque on drive shaft..I've used 48T, 50T, and 52T rear spockets. Tight MX tracks 52 works great...fast MX 52 sucks...needs the 50 or 49 here. Hare scambles 52 works great. My opinion wouldn't go more than that. Anything below 50 in the woods, I didn't like it.

[DaveJ]

Isn't there a limitation on how large you can go? I thought 52 was it before it starts running into stuff or putting too much against the hub.

Check the book.

[Amador]

You will most likely have to modify your chain guard but i think that's it. I have never heard anything about the hub before. But that doesn't mean much.

[scottzx7rr]

Dave you are correct when the bike is in stock configuration a 52T is the largest it will handle. Besided anything larger than you have plow on your hands when you get into the deep ruts.

Because with a 52T and chain installed the adjusts will not go all the way forward it hits the Chain/Sprocket Guard. You can shave the plastic to get it a little further. Or move the guard forward(then it is only mounted with two screws) and that give you a few inches of clearance.

Now I have a friend that left the rear at stock and dropped the front teeth down one. He felt a little more torque with that configuration compared to my 14T/52T. But the end results are the same.

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Scott #410

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[Guest Guest]

Slowrider...........

I ran the stock gearing for a long time and then decided to experiment a little.

You can go spend the $50 on a rear if you need a new one but if the rear and chain are fine then spend the $15 on a front 13t.

I love mine in the tight hare scrambles!

I have also went with the 48 on the rear but find that this is a pretty good combo in the wooded scrambles!

lost a little on the top but not near as much clutchin in the tight stuff!

It's all about math.

you have to figure out the percentages fr/rr

........Compared to stock 14/49 you would have to go 13/45or46 would be about the same

I find that the $15 is a better choice than the $50 rr.

I bought a 15th for the high speed open hare scrambles and I am still about $20 to the good!!!!!!!!

just my $.02

G4

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NOPE..........BOY.......

That's not thunder ridin' your BUTT .........

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[slowrider]

Originally posted by emcdan:

Hey slowrider... I've been trying some different combos lately. Don't change front sprocket..my opinion too much torque on drive shaft..I've used 48T, 50T, and 52T rear spockets. Tight MX tracks 52 works great...fast MX 52 sucks...needs the 50 or 49 here. Hare scambles 52 works great. My opinion wouldn't go more than that. Anything below 50 in the woods, I didn't like it.

Another dumb question how many teeth does it come stock with, I guess i could count them but what the hell i will ask anyway. thanks guys

[Amador]

49t

[Jason_in_KC]

13/50 on my 01426 gets me through the woods very nicely. Here in MO/KS woods, there are few places where these hp kings ever see 4th much less 5th. I figure gear for the tight stuff and abuse the clutch much less and shift more if needed. I still find 2nd gear can be stretched w/o needing 3rd most of the time. If I find I am needing speed, just a quick change back to the 14c/s and I'm near stock again. Have fun.

[cowboyona426]

I run my 2000 YZ 426F with a stock rear and a front that is two teeth smaller than stock (12 teeth I believe). I haven't had any problems with too much torque on the drive shaft. You will lose a little top, but it gives the bike a lot more grunt off the bottom and less likely to stall out on climbs if you aren't racing. Hope this helps.

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