Spyder EVO disc cover on 2010 450


9 replies to this topic
  • CaptainKnobby

Posted May 06, 2011 - 01:41 PM

#1

I have this kind of disc cover on my front wheel and is made by acharbes. I just noticed the other day how the end of the axle goes on into the axle holder at the end of the forks. It goes in about 1/8 inch so I guess this is not good.

Should I be concerned and take the cover off and just use the stock spacer?

  • grayracer513

Posted May 06, 2011 - 01:55 PM

#2

What does the disc cover have to do with the axle?

  • CaptainKnobby

Posted May 06, 2011 - 07:05 PM

#3

What does the disc cover have to do with the axle?


The spacer that is made into the disc cover is not as wide as the stock spacer and therefore when you tighten the axle nut........I guess it squeezes the forks together a little more which brings the axle through the hole a little futher.

  • grayracer513

Posted May 06, 2011 - 07:38 PM

#4

Let's think about what you said:

The brake side wheel spacer determines where the rotor sits in relation to the caliper. If it allowed the wheel to move farther right, the wheel would be off center in the fork, and the rotor would rub the caliper.

The right side fork lug "floats" on the axle. No matter what the length of the axle, the right fork tube can be loosened and moved freely over the tightened axle. The axle can't "pull the forks together".

Loosen the axle pinch bolts on the right fork tube, take the bike off the stand, hold the brake, and compress the fork as far as you can several times. This will cause the upper tubes to move the right lower tube into its most aligned position with the upper. Then tighten it up.

  • CaptainKnobby

Posted May 06, 2011 - 08:20 PM

#5

Lets think about what you just said>

The first sentence of your response is very clear and is true. About the rotor rubbing the caliper and such. But!.....I dont have the stock wheel spacer in (The spacer that is on the caliper side).

The spyder disc cover had a spacer made onto the cover it self. Which ment i had to do away with the stock spacer. So when I put the axle through the hole and push it through and then put the axle nut on and start threading it.

When I get to the point to where the nut gets tight by just using my fingers I will then put a socket on the nut and finishing tightening it. When I get it tightened ......the axle has went past flush on the non-caliper side (right side)

The axle has (non threaded end) has past through the hole about 1/8 inch.

So this tells me the spacer that is made onto the disc cover does not protrude out far enough which in turn makes the gap from the wheel hub to the axle holder bigger. So when you tighten the axel nut it squeezes in the bottom of the forks as the nut goes up the threads which pulls the axle through the hole on the right hand side (non-caliper side) about 1/8 inch.

Its probably not squeezing the forks together but rather pulling the axle through.

Ill take a pic of it tomorrow sometime so you can see what I'm talking about. I have the front wheel off now cause I was going to put another tire on and I was adjusting my fork tube height. BTW I got an update on my DDT forks day before yesterday,They didnt have this update when they put my kit in. Also went to a 5.4kg rear shock spring to soften up a tad and get a better static number which is a 38mm.

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  • CaptainKnobby

Posted May 07, 2011 - 08:37 AM

#6

Here is 1 picture of what I'm talking about.

Posted Image


If you notice in the Pic (which isnt the best) cause i used my GoPro You will notice at the end of the axle it is (Big end) its recessed inside the axle holder about 2mm.

Now!.......i have the disc cover off with the stock spacer in on the left hand side (caliper side). With the disc cover off and the stock spacer in ......The axle will still go in through the hole about 2mm.......BUT.......with the cover off ....You can take your finger and push in at the base of the axle holder(end with the two bolts on top) and get the axle flush with the holder.

When you let the bike down off the stand and work the forks several times the axle will go back in about 2mm. Only difference between using the disc cover or the stock spacer is ........With the stock spacer you can press in at the base of the right axle holder and get the axle flush with the outside edge of the holder to where as if you use the disc cover you cant press in on the holder to get it flush.

Question is? with the stock spacer on and getting it flush now .....should i press in at the base of the holder and get it flush and then tighten the axle holder bolts? Or once the axle nut is tight and after working the forks up and down several times and the axle is recessed back in the hole about 2mm(like with the disc cover on) then tighen the axle holder nuts?

if i do it the second way ...i will just as well use the cover. And another thing is>>>>>>>why work your forks up and down to get the axle settled and tubes straight if you have too push the holder in a little to get the axle flush at the end?

  • grayracer513

Posted May 07, 2011 - 12:34 PM

#7

One more time, and that's it: If the brake side spacer is shorter than the stock one, the brake rotor would be off center in the caliper.

  • CaptainKnobby

Posted May 07, 2011 - 03:32 PM

#8

The spacer on the disc was shorter than the stock spacer and the rotor was out of line with the caliper. I got that part (Which is common sense).

I also done like you said....after I took the disc cover off and put the stock spacer back on.I loosened the right side pinch bolts (after I tightened the caliper side) I worked the forks up and down as far as I could about four or five times but still the big end of the axle wasnt flush with the bottom of the fork axle holder. The big end of the axle was in about 2mm. The only way you could get it flush was to push on the side of the fork at the base and then you could get it flush. It also would stay there on its on so I just tightened the pinch bolts and called it good.

My question is? Was it ok to push on the side of the fork at the base to get the axle flush after working the forks up and down several times to try and get it flush and that not work?

Edited by CaptainKnobby, May 07, 2011 - 03:48 PM.


  • grayracer513

Posted May 07, 2011 - 04:41 PM

#9

No, it's not OK. Bouncing the front like that moves the fork to it's most correct position over the axle, the position in which the inner fork tube aligned on center with the outer tube. Whether the axle is flush is not as important as having the forks internally aligned.

  • CaptainKnobby

Posted May 07, 2011 - 05:42 PM

#10

I guess i will loosen the right side pinch bolts and work the forks up and down a few times and just let it recess in about 2mm and forget about it.





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