Rekluse Core EXP 2.0!


19 replies to this topic
  • Danger16

Posted May 05, 2011 - 09:41 AM

#1

I received my new Rekluse core EXP 2.0 last week for my 2009 YZ450F. I'm coming back to 4 strokes after riding KTM 2 strokes for 5 years and will not ride anything without a Rekluse. I'm a 40+ slow A / fast B rider who spends most of my time racing Hare Scrambles and Enduros.

After 1 ride, I can tell you I'm completely impressed with the new Rekluse Core EXP 2.0 and wanted to provide some installation tips and my first ride report.

Start by adjusting the clutch perch to the stiffest setting then backing off approx. 8 turns on the adjuster. Next put the bike in 5th gear. Lay the bike on it's side and remove the clutch cover.
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Remove the stock pressure plate, and all steel and fiber disks. You can save the stock pressure plate, springs / bolts, and steel plates if you need to change back to stock. You will use 7 of the 8 fibers, the stock throw out with ball bearing; place those to the side for use later. Next bend down the metal tabs that hold the nut in place for the stock inner clutch basket and remove the nut (I used an impact gun for ease) and the stock inner clutch basket.
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You will not use the stock inner clutch basket; however, you do need the spacer/washer on the back of the inner basket. Place the stock spacer on the transmission shaft followed by the Rekluse inner clutch basket. The Rekluse inner basket was a tight fit so I used a piece of wood and lightly tapped with a rubber mallet to ensure it was in place. Next use the Rekluse metal tab and new nut and torque to specs (I had a buddy hold the brake pedal and placed a large screw driver thru one of the inner sprocket holes, since I don't have a clutch basket holder).
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Follow the Rekluse directions for the order of the steels and fibers, but the short version is thin Rekluse steel on the bottom, followed by alternating stock fiber and thick Rekluse steel plates. You should end with 8 Rekluse steel plates and 7 stock fibers. The next piece is the EXP expanding friction disk (be sure to read the Rekluse manual to see how you want your disk set-up, I went with the hardest engagement setting = 6 red springs). Place the expanding disk on top of the clutch pack; the bottom teeth should fit into the clutch basket and the top teeth should be just above the basket.
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Next place the stock throw out with ball bearing in the center of the assembly. Now you can put the Rekluse pressure plate (with the appropriate metal spacer) on the top of the expanding friction disk and use the supplied Rekluse clutch springs with sleeves and allen bolts - torque IAW the directions.
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Somewhere in the directions around this step it asked to check the clutch lever for free play. I had a ton of free play and had a brief panic attack that I had done something wrong, but my conclusion is that the large amount of free play is normal at this point. Now is where the magic happens; the center adjuster on the Rekluse pressure plate is what makes the magic happen.
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Insert your 5mm allen wrench as shown with the long end in one of the 2 adjuster holes and turn clockwise until you can no longer turn the wrench with "normal" pressure. This places the bottom of the adjuster against the center clutch basket nut. Then place the short end of the allen wrench into one of the adjuster holes and turn one complete turn using the tick marks as a reference.
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Now use the 4mm "set screws" to hold the center clutch adjuster in place. Place the Rekluse clutch cover in place and follow the break-in procedures. Once done with the break-in (and your wife yelling at you for making noise in the neighborhood); place the bike back in 5th gear and lay the bike on it's side. Ensure you have some free play in the clutch lever. Take off the clutch cover and allow the bike to cool down for 20 minutes. Loosen the 4mm set screws and turn the center clutch adjuster counter-clockwise to reset the starting point. Now using the previous procedures turn the center adjuster clockwise to find the base point, then turn the one full turn from the base point. From this position read the Rekluse recommended settings for how you want the clutch to operate; I choose the 1 full turn + 2 tick marks. Reinstall the clutch cover and go ride.
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  • Danger16

Posted May 05, 2011 - 09:58 AM

#2

Ride Report:

As I said above, I'm using the hard engagement springs on the EXP expanding friction disk, and I have the center clutch adjuster set at 1 full turn + 2 tick marks.

My first ride impressions. My "free play gain" (see your Rekluse manual) was IAW the directions and I pulled the clutch in dropped the bike in gear and took off. If I place the bike in gear and let go of the clutch without giving the bike any gas the bike does not stall (awesome) and did not creep; however, the instant I applied the gas the bike started to move. These are all traits of the Rekluse Pro. The biggest difference is that there is none of the "feathering" feel that I'm used to with the Pro. When you apply the gas the bike moves instantly and I didn't feel any hesitation. The engagement is sudden, but smooth, and worked flawlessly in the tight woods.

The only thing I noted on my first ride is the clutch lever feel is not completely "stock" feeling. If I pull the clutch in and rev the motor the bike creeps. After talking to the guys at Rekluse this can be adjusted out by going to 1 full turn + 4 ticks on the center clutch adjuster, but the trade off is more frequent adjustments of the center clutch adjuster to ensure you aren't burning up clutch plates. For now I'm going to try a few more rides at the 2 tick mark setting and reassess.

I completed 3 laps around a hare scramble course (practice day) and had only 1 instance of the bike stalling on the first lap. After that the bike didn't stall and I never once thought about "hovering" over the clutch lever.

My plan is to ride some tight woods this weekend and race a TCCRA hare scramble on May 15th. I'll update my ride reports to provide more feedback on the new Rekluse EXP 2.0.

Hope this helps.
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  • RiderX

Posted May 05, 2011 - 12:28 PM

#3

Nice write up. I decided to order the Rekluse Pro for my 09 last night after talking to Rekluse about running a LHRB. They said with removal of the clutch lever there is no way to adjust the gap on the EXP or Core EXP clutches. I asked about the old school external adjusters like they used on the regular Z-Start clutch and he said they've gotten away from those and don't use them anymore.

I'm spoiled and have to have a LHRB and a Rekluse on every bike.

I too have made the switch from KTM 2T to a thumper. I haven't even ridden this bike yet except up the street and back. I hope I like it after all the money I'm spending on it!

  • Danger16

Posted May 06, 2011 - 06:43 AM

#4

Nice write up. I decided to order the Rekluse Pro for my 09 last night after talking to Rekluse about running a LHRB. They said with removal of the clutch lever there is no way to adjust the gap on the EXP or Core EXP clutches. I asked about the old school external adjusters like they used on the regular Z-Start clutch and he said they've gotten away from those and don't use them anymore.

I'm spoiled and have to have a LHRB and a Rekluse on every bike.

I too have made the switch from KTM 2T to a thumper. I haven't even ridden this bike yet except up the street and back. I hope I like it after all the money I'm spending on it!


Where are you located in Texas? I think you'll like the 450 AND miss the 2T at the same time. After riding the bike for the first time last weekend I remembered how cool 4T's are when it comes to putting power to the ground; however, I also realized that the bike requires more enegry to ride than the 2T. I'm going to ride Bill's Woods in Bulcher this weekend to see how the bike handles in tight singletrack. I went to a 51 tooth rear sprocket to get away from being between 1st and 2nd gear in the woods.

I'll let you know how it goes.

  • MrBlahh

Posted May 06, 2011 - 07:10 AM

#5

They said with removal of the clutch lever there is no way to adjust the gap on the EXP or Core EXP clutches. !


I bet someone comes up with something to do this soon, wouldn't take much at all

  • idahojoe

Posted May 06, 2011 - 07:36 AM

#6

I bet someone comes up with something to do this soon, wouldn't take much at all


Actually this information is incorrect. You can run a LHRB with either the EXP or Core EXP. The EXP would utilize the 2 finger override so you can still maintain your gap. Core EXP gap is set internally so you could loose the clutch lever there too or use the 2 finger override.

IdahoJoe

  • MrBlahh

Posted May 06, 2011 - 08:55 AM

#7

so with the trail or whatever version, the cheaper one, you can remove the clutch lever & cable completely like on the older pro I have?

  • idahojoe

Posted May 06, 2011 - 09:52 AM

#8

so with the trail or whatever version, the cheaper one, you can remove the clutch lever & cable completely like on the older pro I have?


Are you asking about running a LHRB? Or just if you can remove the lever and cable?

  • MrBlahh

Posted May 06, 2011 - 09:56 AM

#9

I thought we were talking about removing the lever and installing a LHRB instead

  • idahojoe

Posted May 06, 2011 - 10:33 AM

#10

Thanks, just making sure. With a cable actuated clutch motorcycle, it would be necessary to use the LHRB with the 2 finger clutch override. It is necessary because the cable and lever is the mechanism to create and maintain the gap.

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  • MrBlahh

Posted May 06, 2011 - 10:37 AM

#11

correct me if I'm wrong, so to be clear, you MUST Keep a clutch lever of some type because it's used to set the gap

you could hack up the lever and perch and tuck it up under the number plate, as long as it still holds the cable for the gap setting, and has the adjuster on it still


I wish rekluse would change the product names so they were more clear, people say exp and they mean core exp, and vice versa

  • grayracer513

Posted May 06, 2011 - 10:49 AM

#12

If you take a look at the Rekluse web site, a lot of this will become somewhat clearer for you.

This, regarding the clutch perch question:

There are two options for brake kits: Left-hand only which replaces the foot pedal completely, and a Dual-Actuated model that enables brake activation with either the left hand or right foot.

The stock clutch lever and perch must be removed to install the Left-hand Brake Kit. For cable-clutch bikes, a special override option is available to add a small clutch override to the brake master cylinder. Currently, there is not a clutch lever option for Hydraulic bikes.



  • MrBlahh

Posted May 06, 2011 - 10:53 AM

#13

we have 3 of these rekluse threads a week, the website is not making it clearer for people

for hydro clutch bikes you can install a street bike thumb brake, or you can convert your clutch lever to a brake, but that wont work with the trail aka exp

  • grayracer513

Posted May 06, 2011 - 12:16 PM

#14

Well, lucky for us here that the YZ450 doesn't have a hydro clutch.

  • MrBlahh

Posted May 06, 2011 - 01:11 PM

#15

that's why I did not mention hydro until someone else did

  • RiderX

Posted May 06, 2011 - 06:30 PM

#16

Where are you located in Texas? I think you'll like the 450 AND miss the 2T at the same time. After riding the bike for the first time last weekend I remembered how cool 4T's are when it comes to putting power to the ground; however, I also realized that the bike requires more enegry to ride than the 2T. I'm going to ride Bill's Woods in Bulcher this weekend to see how the bike handles in tight singletrack. I went to a 51 tooth rear sprocket to get away from being between 1st and 2nd gear in the woods.

I'll let you know how it goes.



I'm in the Fort Worth area. Bill's Woods will definitely be the test to determine the bike's prowess in the tight and gnarly! I'm going to 51T in the rear also. My bike is in a million pieces right now, but I should have it together and ready to ride by next weekend. Suspension Dynamics has my forks and shock right now. I'm looking forward to getting it out to Bulcher to put the bike to the test.

Definitely let me know what you think of it after your ride this weekend.



I would run the two finger clutch over ride if I hadn't already put together a LHRB with a KTM Brembo clutch master and a line I had made up already (this cost me half of what a LHRB kit cost).

On a side note: I was ready to pull the trigger on a Revloc Dyna Ring since they offer shiims to put under the throw out bearing for gap adjustment. I called Revloc to ask some questions about the Dyna Ring and got no answer, so I left a voice mail. I got no return call, so I sent an email. I only really started getting responses to my email when I told him I was ready to buy, and they were a bit unprofessional (not rude though). He told me to call him to order it, I did, no answer-I left a voice mail to call me so I can give him my CC info. 2 days go by, no call. I called Rekluse and got an answer to my questions on the first call. This prompted me to order from Rekluse. If I'm having this much trouble getting ahold of Revloc just to place an order, I can imagine what the product support is like after the sale.


My 8 yr old daughter has requested dancing bananas in this post while she dances and sings "it's peanut butter jelly time"-so here they are:
:thumbsup: :confused: :worthy: :busted: :smirk: :moon: :p ;) ;) :moon: :moon: :moon: :banana: :banana:

  • Danger16

Posted May 09, 2011 - 01:24 PM

#17

Tell your daughter I like the dancing bananas, I think!

Update from riding singletrack in Texas. From those of you not familiar with Bill's Woods it is approximately 15 - 20 miles of good singletrack with a little of everything, and my favorite trail here in North Texas.

The Rekluse performed to perfection in this environment on Saturday. I went to 13 - 51 gearing on the 2009 which has stock 13 - 49 gearing. This gearing helped keep the bike in second gear for most conditions, except very slow or technical trails. The Core EXP 2.0 worked great, without a single flameout for the entire day. I really like the feel of the immediate engagement from the clutch without the "feathering" feel of the earlier Rekluse clutches.

I'm going to leave the set-up on my Rekluse as is and race a TCCRA hare scramble this weekend. I'll provide an update following the race.

  • RiderX

Posted May 09, 2011 - 01:28 PM

#18

I'm headed there this weekend. How'd you like the bike in Bill's Woods compared to your KTM 2T?

Also do you happen to know what jetting your running so I can compare? I'm going through my bike from end to end this week.

  • Danger16

Posted May 09, 2011 - 07:30 PM

#19

I'm headed there this weekend. How'd you like the bike in Bill's Woods compared to your KTM 2T?

Also do you happen to know what jetting your running so I can compare? I'm going through my bike from end to end this week.


X, are you going to the race or Bulcher? I liked the 450 in the woods, I can definitely feel the weight but I really like the power delivery and the suspension (stock) is much better than my 08 250 SX that was revalved for offroad. I'm not completely sold on the 450 in singletrack, but I think it will really shine in hare scramble conditions.

So far I've raised the forks a couple of mm in the triple clamps, softened the suspension a couple of clicks, added the Rekluse and a 51T rear sprocket, and other offroad items (Clarke tank / radiator guards / Devol skid plate / Scotts damper). My jetting is a 45 pilot, 160 main, with the stock needle (I think... NFLR?) in the 3rd clip position. The exhaust is stock, as is everything else and I can't imagine needing more power. We'll see?

Hope this helps.

  • RiderX

Posted May 09, 2011 - 08:03 PM

#20

I'm going to Bulcher this weekend. Thanks for the jetting specs. I'm looking forward to riding this thing. I'm glad to hear the suspension feels better. I had my 08 250XCW revalved by Trailtricks and it was still awful. SD is revalving my YZF this week, so it should ride like it's on pillows!





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