2 things I can't figure out on my new 2011 YZ 450


15 replies to this topic
  • occrfmx

Posted May 01, 2011 - 11:40 AM

#1

1) Oil Change Procedure:with the reverse engine the drain bolts are on the right side. On my old CRF the bolts were on the left side and I used a special funnel that attached to the frame and let me bleed both tranny and engine oil at the same time without making a mess. The stand that came with the bike allowed me to lean the bike to the left. I've been searching the forum and can't find anything on how to change the oil on a '10/'11. How are you guys leaning the bike to the right and getting the oil to drain in a controlled way and not end up all over the frame and floor?

2) It seems like you really have to slip the clutch when taking off from a stand still, otherwise it will stall. Not sure if this is because the clutch is extra grabby or what. Just not used to it. My buddies also had a hard time with my bike not stalling when rolling at a slow speed or just taking off. Is this normal? Any tips on this or is it just something you get used to?

  • brentn

Posted May 01, 2011 - 06:16 PM

#2

First off, don't use a stand, use your body while crouched and have the bike lean against your shoulder after you loosen the bolts. Once the bolts are loose, lean the bike and unscrew and let drain into your bucket, I usually just drain the first plug (towards front) then put the bolt back in and drain next plug. Doesn't matter though what order you drain in. I always seem to get a bit of oil on the frame from the front bolt and the rear bolt tends to drip into the stock plastic skid plate no matter what.
Have some paper towels ready :confused:

Second, the bike stalls easy, you need to have a heavier flywheel to remedy this. The poor mans solution is to just raise the idle to about 2200 and stalling is greatly reduced. From a stand-still I always slip the clutch to get going, no matter what bike I ride :thumbsup:.

Have fun with it, I just got back from a 6 hour ride in the badlands, It was just amazing today and I'm sore as hell. Bike didn't let me down at all, had a blast!

  • HRC

Posted May 02, 2011 - 05:01 AM

#3

Me too have some problems with stalling.

  • ChillyKTM

Posted May 02, 2011 - 05:44 AM

#4

Raised my idle and was better < plus im sure theres an efi map out there somewhere to help >>>oil change is same as my old yz except the second drain bolts position does not allow a wrench or socket on it easily at all which leads to stripping very very easily so be careful

  • bdahyrt

Posted May 02, 2011 - 07:05 AM

#5

I just do what brent said for the oil changes and stalling. I cannot wait til i can get the power tuner and the offroad flywheel though.


The woods map here is supposed to be pretty darn good from what iv'e heard:
http://www.directmot...ass-2010-yz450f

  • occrfmx

Posted May 02, 2011 - 01:17 PM

#6

Thanks for the tips everyone.

Just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something on the oil change technique.

I do have the tuner, so I will load the woods map and may bump the idle to 2200 as well.

  • DC_Excitement

Posted May 02, 2011 - 02:02 PM

#7

cant you just swap the axel around to lean the bike that way?

  • capt justin

Posted May 02, 2011 - 02:11 PM

#8

i did on my 250 (axle swap)

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  • brentn

Posted May 02, 2011 - 08:18 PM

#9

Raised my idle and was better < plus im sure theres an efi map out there somewhere to help >>>oil change is same as my old yz except the second drain bolts position does not allow a wrench or socket on it easily at all which leads to stripping very very easily so be careful


I use a 12mm wrench, box end and it doesn't even come close to stripping. Not sure how you've almost stripped that bolt?

  • RJacks

Posted May 03, 2011 - 02:38 PM

#10

For oil changes I use an older Yamaha triangle stand that fits in the right side of the axle.

  • occrfmx

Posted May 03, 2011 - 03:29 PM

#11

I like that idea of getting a different triangle, thanks!

  • rdefonce

Posted May 04, 2011 - 09:17 AM

#12

I like that idea of getting a different triangle, thanks!


Here's a method that works well, if you don't have a different triangle:

Hook a tie-down to the left side of the bars (I just pull up on right side of my truck after warming bike up, and use the tie-down on rt side, hung over the bed of my truck), which leans the bike over to the right.

  • jaro51

Posted May 04, 2011 - 10:07 AM

#13

I like that idea of getting a different triangle, thanks!


Why don't you just flip the rear axle around so it leans to the right instead of left??

  • occrfmx

Posted May 04, 2011 - 11:02 AM

#14

The only think I don't like about swapping the axel is that I'm used to leaning the bike on the left side and I think it would awkward to lean it to the right for everything else besides oil changes (like exiting the bike, I'm just used to going left). It is a good idea, though. I like the tie down idea as well, that would eliminate the need to buy anything or change the setup.

  • brentn

Posted May 07, 2011 - 12:42 PM

#15

Here's a method that works well, if you don't have a different triangle:

Hook a tie-down to the left side of the bars (I just pull up on right side of my truck after warming bike up, and use the tie-down on rt side, hung over the bed of my truck), which leans the bike over to the right.


Good idea!

  • rcmxracing

Posted May 09, 2011 - 06:51 AM

#16

Axel swap is smart, but what I did was grind my triangle stand so now it fits in the smaller axel hole and works on either side of the bike!





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