fair price to have the valve clearance checked


32 replies to this topic
  • YamahaDoc

Posted May 02, 2011 - 10:12 AM

#21

Free do it yourself... (I do my bike)

But the guy I take my dads stuff (Can-Am's) to charges 60 for the check and 120 if he needs to shim them.

  • crf450319

Posted May 02, 2011 - 12:55 PM

#22

What's you're thought's on the clearances I came up with? Does this sound reasonable?


Yep, sounds great to me. So long as you're in spec it's all good. A little drag on the feeler gauge isn't a bad thing, but if you've got to bend/crease the feeler in order to get it to slide then you may want to consider re-shimming.

Keep in mind that shims from a Hot Cams kit only come in 0.05 increments, I know Honda offers shims in 0.025mm increments. And the difference in clearance between a 1.90mm shim and a 1.95mm shim is approx. 0.002” (or so I've read)

New shim size = (measured clearance - desired clearance) + existing shim size

So, use that calculation and play with some numbers. At either 0.004" intakes and 0.008" exhaust clearance(s) it doesn't really pay to re-shim, I wouldn't.

And good for you ! Doesn't that feel great to get a job done that you were considering paying someone for ?

  • crush6742

Posted May 02, 2011 - 02:37 PM

#23

GREAT!!!

Thanks for all your help. It is a good feeling when you can do this yourself. Big time and money savings; I would have spent more time dropping the bike off and picking it up, and lost valuable weekend riding time. Can't put a price on that.

  • grayracer513

Posted May 02, 2011 - 03:10 PM

#24

What's you're thought's on the clearances I came up with? Does this sound reasonable?

Here's my problem:

... I had to push a little harder to get the feeler gauge in on the exhuast valves than I had to on the intake valves.

You're not supposed to have to "push" the feeler gauge under the cam; it's supposed to fit with a slight drag. If one size drags and the next size down does not, then the correct "read" is that it's the larger of the two. But if an .008 fits correctly, you can still push a .010 under the same cam lobe. It opens the valve to do it, and it's wrong, but you can.

So, .008 is fine, perfect, in fact, but .007 is too tight. Try the .007 and see what's up.

... the difference in clearance between a 1.90mm shim and a 1.95mm shim is approx. 0.002” (or so I've read)

Inches convert to millimeters using 25.4 as a factor. By dividing 0.5mm by 25.4, you get .00197". Let's call it .002" :thumbsup:

If you have a valve that's .007" and should be .008-.010", adding .002" of clearance to .007" gives you .009". .5mm increments are all the closer you need to be.

  • AquaNut

Posted May 02, 2011 - 03:58 PM

#25

Six Pack of beer is fair for checking valves

12 pack for adjusting

Bring it by anytime:busted:


My kind of mechanic! I will bring 12 for the process and 24 to leave behind in your frig...whatcha drinking?

  • crush6742

Posted May 03, 2011 - 04:03 PM

#26

The .007 went in too easily. The .008 just needed a little nudge to get it in, but once it was in the drag seemed to be correct. If I convert the .20MM metric spec in the book to inches it equates to .00787. That's why I thought the extra little push on the .008 may have seemed okay since the .007 was too loose. I’m afraid that the .002 shim will put me more out of spec. I know I shouldn't have to push hardly at all, but it was much and the .007 had no drag. too loose. Are tolerances from the factory closer to the low end or more in the middle?

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  • YamahaDoc

Posted May 03, 2011 - 04:08 PM

#27

The .007 went in too easily. The .008 just needed a little nudge to get it in, but once it was in the drag seemed to be correct. If I convert the .20MM metric spec in the book to inches it equates to .00787. That's why I thought the extra little push on the .008 may have seemed okay since the .007 was too loose. I’m afraid that the .002 shim will put me more out of spec. I know I shouldn't have to push hardly at all, but it was much and the .007 had no drag. too loose. Are tolerances from the factory closer to the low end or more in the middle?


If I'm not mistaken they are closer to the Higher end, most valves will tend to tighten up. So I'd imagine they would leave some room for movement from the factory!

  • crush6742

Posted May 03, 2011 - 04:28 PM

#28

P.S. I ment to say " but it wasn't much" not " but it was was much"

  • grayracer513

Posted May 03, 2011 - 05:36 PM

#29

Are tolerances from the factory closer to the low end or more in the middle?

Yamadoc is mistaken. His statement is logical, but inaccurate anyway. The factory builds the head to as near the minimum as possible using shims in .01mm increments to do it. Your valves sound fine as they are.

  • YamahaDoc

Posted May 03, 2011 - 11:54 PM

#30

Yamadoc is mistaken. His statement is logical, but inaccurate anyway. The factory builds the head to as near the minimum as possible using shims in .01mm increments to do it. Your valves sound fine as they are.


Haha Rad, Thanks Man!

  • crush6742

Posted May 04, 2011 - 02:22 PM

#31

GREAT!!! Thanks for everyone's help.

  • ubu

Posted May 04, 2011 - 08:14 PM

#32

Also, FYI, I discovered that you can use the back end of the spark plug wrench to undo the large allen bolt.


That is a great tip! I've been using a 14mm bolt with a jam nut on one end. Never even thought about the fact that the spark plug wrench small end is a 14mm hex:ride:

  • yz4ck

Posted May 15, 2011 - 09:09 PM

#33

I'd buy one of 319's bikes in a heartbeat !!!





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