Who makes the best o-ring chain?


51 replies to this topic
  • KJ790

Posted May 03, 2011 - 05:57 AM

#21

I have run Regina ORN6 chains for many years and love them. Recently I heard so many good reviews on the Primary Drive X-ring chain that I decided to try one out on my practice bike. I've had it on for a little while and so far I am really impressed. For the price it seems to be holding up really well. I had to adjust it after the second ride and since then it has been holding steady for a while. That is something I found with the ORN6 as well, it needs to be adjusted once after the first 2-3 rides and then it doesn't seem to wear much at all for a long time. We'll see as I get more time on it, but so far I'm really happy with the Primary Drive X-ring chain, especially for the price :thumbsup:

  • grayracer513

Posted May 03, 2011 - 10:32 AM

#22

How tough are the rollers on these ORN6 chains?

I found tacky chain lubes are a total no-no for both rollers and my chain slider. So I' usually use a very light oil such as Inox and keep the chain very clean and rust free.

The rollers give me no trouble. Most of my riding is done under very dry conditions, but there is a lot of sand involved. The chains last somewhere around two years before I replace them. The cause for replacement is usually one of these three conditions, listed in order of likelihood:
  • Top and bottom edges of the plates are worn down to the seals from running on the chain guide/slider
  • The chain has reached my service limit of stretch (I use a limit of 1.5% longer than new, Yamaha recommends 2%)
  • The chain has developed excessively tight links
I use Maxima Synthetic Chain Guard applied the night before a ride because it is fairly low on tackiness, even lower than most light oils, it lubes the sprockets, rollers and seals well, and washes off with low pressure water and Simple Green, taking the little bit of dirt it gathers with it.

  • Mr. Neutron

Posted May 03, 2011 - 10:47 AM

#23

I have run Regina ORN6 chains for many years and love them. Recently I heard so many good reviews on the Primary Drive X-ring chain that I decided to try one out on my practice bike. I've had it on for a little while and so far I am really impressed. For the price it seems to be holding up really well. I had to adjust it after the second ride and since then it has been holding steady for a while. That is something I found with the ORN6 as well, it needs to be adjusted once after the first 2-3 rides and then it doesn't seem to wear much at all for a long time. We'll see as I get more time on it, but so far I'm really happy with the Primary Drive X-ring chain, especially for the price :thumbsup:


Seems to be my experience as well. I just bought one for the YZ, along with a 50t rear sprocket. I wish I knew who makes their chain for them; I just know they seem to hold up really well.

Now, like Grayracer513 alluded to, the cost isn't really that much less than the Regina ORN6. I think I paid around $57 for 116 links of the Prim. Dr. X-Ring chain (non-gold coated). I don't have my receipt here at work, so I don't have the exact price. I want to say that when I price shopped, it was around $25 less than a Regina ORN6?

At any rate, I used that money to go towards the new rear 50t sprocket.....

One interesting thing I finally read about chain maintenance on the box of the the new chain was to use "petrolatum" based 85-90wt. oil for the O-ring chains, and "petroleum" based 85-90wt. oil for regular non o-ring chains. Wonder what the difference is there? I've never heard of petrolatum..... :confused:

I have used that thick oil for my chains, and think it works pretty well in certain conditions (the mud we tend to get here in the NW.... :worthy: ). But man, oh man, does it ever attract (and hold) sand! :busted: It also tends to make a bit of a mess when it flings around as well.......

Jimmie

  • grayracer513

Posted May 03, 2011 - 11:26 AM

#24

I've never heard of petrolatum..... :thumbsup:

Vaseline. But I have no idea how you get a petroleum jelly based 85w-90.

In any case, there are much better chain lubes available.

  • crf450319

Posted May 03, 2011 - 11:28 AM

#25

Last season I had a DID ERV3 on my '09, this past January I put a new Regina ORN6 on my bike. Ran it for a couple rides and adjusted which is normal, but now after 10 hours of runtime it's starting to stretch again.

I run MX only, and in Intermediate. We'll see what happens within the next 10 to 15 hours with this ORN6, so far I'm still a skeptic..

  • Polar_Bus

Posted May 03, 2011 - 02:24 PM

#26

You guys treat your chains like "gold" :thumbsup:, me personally am lazy at consistant chain maintenence. My only rule NEVER lube a chain after a wash ! I actually lube my chain before I put my bike away, I prefer PJ1 "blue" formula . I like to spray some WD40 on the chain if it's been a very muddy and wet day of riding before the trailer home . Water and grit in the rollers really accelerates the wear. Everyone has their own chain lube ritual, this practice works good for me. Again, can't say enough about Regina ORN6's I wont use anything else.

Edited by Polar_Bus, May 04, 2011 - 02:10 AM.


  • thestuz

Posted May 04, 2011 - 12:25 AM

#27

have you guys got any feed back on pro tAPER gold chains???

ive just installed one. the xrings look great but its one heavy mother of a chain!

  • Mr. Neutron

Posted May 04, 2011 - 04:21 AM

#28

My bike ('06 YZ450F) came with a Pro Taper non o-ring chain & rear alum. sprocket when I bought it from a member here. It was a very good combo, that seemed to hold up pretty well. It's good stuff. If they make an o-ring type of chain, I'd expect it to be good, but have no first hand experience with that..... I changed it simply because I wanted to change the gearing a little for off-road stuff, and because I'd had good luck with o-ring type chains..........

My experience has been that the o-ring chains seem to hold up better, and even better with a steel rear sprocket..... :thumbsup: On my last bike, the Primary Drive gold x-ring chain & supersprox alum/steel rear sprocket held up for a year that I used it, and is still being used (a year later) by the guy that bought it.....

FWIW, I rode last night at the local mx track practice afternoon. The new chain (Primary Drive non-gold coated x-ring) held up with no adjustment needed on it's inaugural voyage. Even with without the vaseline/petrolatum lube the manufacturer says I'm supposed to use...... :confused:

Jimmie

  • primerib108

Posted May 04, 2011 - 06:15 AM

#29

Previous chain on my YZ was the DID o-ring which lasted an long time considering the conditions I ride in....almost 2 years. Tough chain without a doubt but pricey!

I am on an ERT2 DID non o-ring chain and I am impressed so far and the price is right.....bike rolls much better too.

  • crf450319

Posted May 04, 2011 - 12:03 PM

#30

I am on an ERT2 DID non o-ring chain and I am impressed so far and the price is right.....bike rolls much better too.


The last DID ERT2 chain that I ran lasted literally 17 to 20 hours, that was 2 years ago... and that was the last ERT2 I'll ever buy.

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  • todds924

Posted May 04, 2011 - 08:59 PM

#31

Lets make sure we compare apples to apples. A "street" chain has nowhere near the violent stress impacts that a "dirt" chain sees. So you bragging about the extended life of your cheap PU street bike chain is not a true and fair comparison to overall chain quality. Too many people also look for the higest tensile strength chains and assume that are the best, this thinking is also incorrect. I've used every chain out there over the past 25 years of racing and play riding. RK chains are junk, Tsubaki is good, DID's are good to better, and Regina ORN6's is TOPS hands down as far as longevity and increased sprocket life. Go to the races, aske any veteran 450cc pro racer who buys his own chains and ask him what he prefers and i'm willing to bet he will answer the Regina ORN6

A 170 HP street/sport bike doesnt violently stress a chain more than a 50 HP dirtbike???????????

  • primerib108

Posted May 05, 2011 - 04:30 AM

#32

The last DID ERT2 chain that I ran lasted literally 17 to 20 hours, that was 2 years ago... and that was the last ERT2 I'll ever buy.


I have heard that before and of course right after I purchased mine :thumbsup: I did have to adjust it twice in the beginning but now it hasn't moved for over 6 rides now and it seems to holding up well. The DID o-ring chain was a better product, but up here in Canuckistan (as you know) they are terribly expensive.

  • Smacaroni

Posted May 05, 2011 - 05:52 AM

#33

A 170 HP street/sport bike doesnt violently stress a chain more than a 50 HP dirtbike???????????

To be fair, a 170 hp street bike isn't going to run a 420-520 chain.
So let's pick a bike that will, a 500-600cc standard.
Is the bike going to bounce along rough roads? Occasionally, but a dirt bike does it constantly.
Is the rear wheel ever off the ground with the engine bouncing off the rev limiter? I hope not. But this is normal fare for the dirt bike chain.
How often does the street bike chain see dirt roads? Mine has, but for most people, never. Dirt bikes don't see dirt roads either, but they do see a lot of dirt, with rocks and roots and mud.

The environmental stress alone is immensely harsher on a dirt bike chain.

  • grayracer513

Posted May 05, 2011 - 08:18 AM

#34

A 170 HP street/sport bike doesnt violently stress a chain more than a 50 HP dirtbike???????????

It's a much different stress, far higher on tensile load, but much less frequent impact shock. I'd have to say the dirt bike is worse overall, the rear wheel skipping off the ground under power repeatedly and all. And sportbike chains are heavier. Neither is particularly easy on the drive train, though.

  • crf450319

Posted May 05, 2011 - 08:21 AM

#35

To be fair, a 170 hp street bike isn't going to run a 420-520 chain.
So let's pick a bike that will, a 500-600cc standard.
Is the bike going to bounce along rough roads? Occasionally, but a dirt bike does it constantly.
Is the rear wheel ever off the ground with the engine bouncing off the rev limiter? I hope not. But this is normal fare for the dirt bike chain.
How often does the street bike chain see dirt roads? Mine has, but for most people, never. Dirt bikes don't see dirt roads either, but they do see a lot of dirt, with rocks and roots and mud.

The environmental stress alone is immensely harsher on a dirt bike chain.


I ran a 520 on my R6 in '05 when I was road-racing, and at the time it made 116 rwhp on the dyno (after a shaved head, thinner head gasket, degreed cams, PCIII, full Yosh. etc. etc). While I'll agree that the dirt/debris is hard on a chain, I'll disagree that a dirt bike itself puts more stress on a chain than a 600 - simple math, it's putting more than twice the amount of hp through the same chain.

  • Polar_Bus

Posted May 05, 2011 - 09:57 AM

#36

I ran a 520 on my R6 in '05 when I was road-racing, and at the time it made 116 rwhp on the dyno (after a shaved head, thinner head gasket, degreed cams, PCIII, full Yosh. etc. etc). While I'll agree that the dirt/debris is hard on a chain, I'll disagree that a dirt bike itself puts more stress on a chain than a 600 - simple math, it's putting more than twice the amount of hp through the same chain.


Your also using a 520 chain when the bike was originally designed to run a 530. you are also comparing road racing to dirt. Yes there will be more stress on a road race 600 vs street driven, however it's the basic fact of the constant abrupt full on acceleration to full on locked rear wheel braking impacts on a dirt chain that beats the crap out of a dirt chain.

  • crf450319

Posted May 05, 2011 - 12:00 PM

#37

Your also using a 520 chain when the bike was originally designed to run a 530. you are also comparing road racing to dirt. Yes there will be more stress on a road race 600 vs street driven, however it's the basic fact of the constant abrupt full on acceleration to full on locked rear wheel braking impacts on a dirt chain that beats the crap out of a dirt chain.


Nope, OE chain on my R6 was a 525. Besides we're having a discussion as to which puts more strain/stress on a chain in general, not which OE chain lasts the longest. If that were the case, my 450 would be the clear winner.. those OEM chains are sh*t !

Agree to disagree I guess.. :thumbsup:

  • KJ790

Posted May 05, 2011 - 12:42 PM

#38

The impacts from dirt riding will be much harder on a chain than a more powerful street will be on a chain. Think of it this way, let's say a 450 dirtbike is a 5lb hammer and a streetbike is a 10lbd hammer. Gently lay either hammer on top of a nail stuck in wood and neither one will drive the nail in. The weight of the heavier hammer will sink the nail a little further though. Now take the 5lb hammer and swing it to impact the nail, the nail will be driven into the wood easily.

The power from the bike isn't really hard on chains at all, an R1 only produces a peak of 83lb-ft of torque, which means that the chain will only have about 160lbs of force in it from the engine. A chain from a bicycle can handle that force, it is the impacts from the wheel skipping off the ground that is hard on chains.

  • Troutman

Posted May 05, 2011 - 01:02 PM

#39

The last DID ERT2 chain that I ran lasted literally 17 to 20 hours, that was 2 years ago... and that was the last ERT2 I'll ever buy.


That is the exact experience I had with my DID ERT2 chain, never again. I have had my ORN6 on for 40 hrs. and will be adjusting it for the first time this week. I am sold on the ORN6.

  • thestuz

Posted May 06, 2011 - 01:43 AM

#40

That is the exact experience I had with my DID ERT2 chain, never again. I have had my ORN6 on for 40 hrs. and will be adjusting it for the first time this week. I am sold on the ORN6.


damn im glad i didnt get the did ert2 chain now!
but what is a orn6 chain?





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