Pick oil for me

23 replies to this topic
  • weantright

Posted April 26, 2011 - 12:02 PM


Yes more oil and many many more hrs. and heat cycles between changes. Piston wobble plate pump to produce pressure then ram effect with the injector. Head and cylinder are they not coolers?? Sure not efficient but still coolers. I bet temps are very close and I elevated my water and oil temps on top of that. Another benifet of diesel oil is anti-foaming additives. Buying cheap oil and changing after a ride is better than not changing oil often. Synethic oil any make will last longer than dyno oils, go 2/3 longer for the same $$ but less work.

I run Asmoil in my motor and Rotella in the gear side of the CRF150RB. I run Asmoil because I get 20w-50 $9 qt. otd vs. $15+ for other HP synethic oil. I feel Asmoil is too slippery for the clutch and Rekluse reccomends Rotella. Asmoil is in my Husky and Rotella in all the others.

  • KJ790

Posted April 26, 2011 - 12:20 PM


IMO it is worth it to change your oil often regardless of what oil you are running. Just because your oil is still in spec when you dump it doesn't mean that there are not other advantages to changing it often. I want my oil to still be good when I dump it b/c that means that the engine was never run with oil that has deteriorated.

I change my oil at most every 3 hours and it has saved me in the past. One time I dumped the oil and found some metal in it, though the bike ran great. I tore it down and found a part inside that must have been faulty from the factory and had failed, but luckily it had not had a chance to cause much of any damage. Had I been on the 30 hour oil change interval I would have just kept running it until the engine failed catastrophically and would have spent a whole lot more than I spend on frequent oil changes. To me it is worth it right there.

I come from a family owned trucking company (around 100 tractor trailers) and that's the way my father taught me. For decades he ran Shell Rotella oil and changed it every 15,000 miles (the engine manufacturers recommend 30,000 miles and some fleets go as much as 60,000 on an oil change). There were numerous times that we would dump the oil and a roller would drop out or there would be metal in the oil filter. Spending a little extra to change oil often and catch problems through oil changes rather than through catastrophic failure saves a lot of money in the end.

On top of that, for many people, oil changes are the only time the bike gets cleaned up and looked at in any detail. It's possible to notice a cracked part,, loose or missing bolt, or other problem when your face is down close to the engine removing a drain bolt or changing an oil filter.

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  • grayracer513

Posted April 26, 2011 - 02:27 PM


if thats the case I would much rather run an amsoil product.. where do you get it for that price? ... do you have to pay to be a distributor to get it cheaper?

To be a dealer costs $30/yr. To be a preferred customer costs $20. If you figure that that saves you a little over $2.50/quart of the SRP, then with shipping and the fee, it breaks even at around 12 quarts. Might be worth it to you or not.

I would like to see something to back this up! Coming from a Asmoil dealer/reseller I question it. ...

I hate to break this to you, but I am not either of those. I haven't had anyone send me a UOA of their Rotella results except for two road bike riders. I have, however heard from a number of people I trust that they gave up on Rotella because they couldn't get it to stay in grade. One of them was doing enduros on a YZ250F.

There are several types of synethic oils, choose wisely.

There are two, primarily, although they get away with saying that Group III oils are synthetic, in spite of the fact that they are mined petroleum oil that's been more highly refined than normal. The other two are the Group IV poly-alpha olefin oils, and the Group V esters.

You are missing a few critical points...

The points listed are valid, but not the primary problem with Rotella and other engine oils. The trouble is that the viscosity index improvers used in most automotive oils are not physically tough enough to keep from being shredded in a transmission, and the result is an oil that drops back closer to its original base viscosity.

In case anyone cares to see it, here's a UOA from my '06 YZ450 with 11 hours of desert time on it (4 day New Year's trip):

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  • SXP

Posted April 26, 2011 - 06:33 PM


In case anyone cares to see it, here's a UOA from my '06 YZ450 with 11 hours of desert time on it (4 day New Year's trip):

Yes! Thank you. It's nice to have something to compare against. I was a little worried about my Al, Si and Fe numbers, but they seem about in line with what you are seeing.

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