Hahaha, I swear that's not what I'm going after, I just want to kill that dead spot and get the AFR tuned close.

HMM,,,,,what seems to be the problem here? The FCR is by far the easiest carb in the world to tune that I have ever worked with. It's so simple my grandson can tune them and he's 12yrs old..

Are you sure you don't have a small air leak because it's hard to believe after these many post that you're still not jetted properly or are you just ****ing with us? Either that or your one stunborn sonofabitch, it's not the carb that has a problemo here it's the tuner.:lol: For one you need to get a evr needle and if your to cheap to buy one and try it than your never going to tune it right.
I could care less if you take my advise but son you have to open your mind a little, you're making this crap way to complicated.
It may not be you it may not be the carb it may be your motors internal componets aren't up to the task, you need post some better info on your comp/cam/valves/squish/quench/ rod lenght/stroke/ you cant tune a carb without taking these into effect.:banghead:

I got frustarted after reading 99 post of jumble and nothing just nothing but the same out come so I said F-it....someone here has his head so far up there ass I couldn't take it anylonger and bitch slapped ya....to try and bring you out of that cloud your in.
Put the stock carb back on if you're not happy an unable to tune the FCR.

I didn't want to chime in but this is getting out of hand don'tcha think!
If you can't tune it take it to someone that can..:smirk:

Well "cyclewizard" I have thought about an air leak however although im not a tuning guru like yourself I would have imagined a leak would affect other throttle positions across the range. I have tuned the FCR and have an almost perfect linear 12.8-13 afr across all throttle positions and under all loads. "My" issues and the issue of a few others is a lean spot at 1/8th throttle where im pushing a 14+ afr. If you read all the other posts you will see that As others I have purched a AFR guage, had an exhaust bung tig welded to my ceramic coated pipe, and have a drawer full of needles and jets purchased for this project.

If you are local and think your grandson is available to come and help me with my tuning please let me know.

:lol::lol: I'll fly him there.......:thumbsup: I'm glad you fella's have a good sense of humor...Like I said I should have not clicked the reply key.:banghead:

wow...really?

...that's a borderline post even here on TT. :smirk:

there is always the edit function. :bonk:



:cheers:

wow...really?

...that's a borderline post even here on TT. :smirk:

there is always the edit function. :bonk:



:cheers:

Ok I'll edit it but doncha think it's a little to late:lol:


I'm sorry guys just stirring the pot like thumpnred said..:p

wow...really?

...that's a borderline post even here on TT. :smirk:

there is always the edit function. :bonk:


:cheers:

...sadly, the fine art of smack talk is a lost art to many. :smirk:



:p



:moon:

Well...Cyclewizard,maybe toofast1000 and I, could forgive you IF you send us each a EVR needle...

:lol::lol: jezze I feel like poop now for flappin my big fat mouth..

I didn't mean it guys......:bonk:

It's good to see someone say what they are thinking once in a while! Of course that is usually followed by a dose of the banhammer:bonk::lol:

I usualy don't do that, open mouth insert foot...I've been hanging around ADV JO Momma to long where anything goes..another thing Brian is rubbing off on me..:lol:

I usualy don't do that, open mouth insert foot...I've been hanging around ADV JO Momma to long where anything goes..another thing Brian is rubbing off on me..:lol:

The leak jet is an orifice that bleeds the feul from the outlet of the accelerator pump back to the float bowl. The smaller the orifice the more feul goes to the cylinder. I find that with even the smallest leak jet orifice size (#35) there still isn't enough fuel and I get a very slight bog. That is why I say you could solder the orifice shut on these big bore engines because they can take it.

I know that some FCR carbs need drilling and some just need to have the check valve in the circuit removed. I have a OEM FCR-MX carb and the check valve is located in the AP cover so I didn't have to modify anything. All I had to do is bolt on the R&D pump2 cover.

DOTCOM, What kind of exhaust and air filter are you running with these jetting specs? I installed an FCR39 off a 2011 WR450F, currently my jetting is 40 pilot, 160 main, NCVR on 3rd notch from top. I have a Big Gun full exhaust with the quiet core installed and engine is de-smogged, uni-air filter. Starting and idle is perfect, I'm still playing with the needle and main. I had the needle in the 4th position with a 162 main and it pulled a lot stronger. Also my air jet is 80, do you think I should go to a 100?

By the way, I live around 200' elevation, weather currently is mid-50's with 60 percent humidity.

HMM,,,,,what seems to be the problem here? The FCR is by far the easiest carb in the world to tune that I have ever worked with. It's so simple my grandson can tune them and he's 12yrs old..