Accel Battery Eliminators
Posted August 12, 2003 - 09:55 PM
as sold on Accel Battery Eliminators
Posted August 13, 2003 - 01:17 PM
As far as the flicker claims, hmmm, that might be suspect. The brighter lights might just come from regulating the cap to a higher voltage (with a downside of less bulb life, higher light temps, etc).
Posted August 13, 2003 - 10:58 PM
Posted August 14, 2003 - 02:00 AM
Posted August 14, 2003 - 03:40 AM
Posted August 14, 2003 - 05:21 AM
I thinking of trying one to replace the battery in my Dual-sported 2000 WR. (My bike has a rectifier).
I presume the batt eliminator weighs less than a battery, no?
Posted August 14, 2003 - 07:46 AM
That looks like an electrolytic cap and they are very light for their size.
Posted August 15, 2003 - 03:38 PM
At first I had a small battery that seemed to work OK until it couldn't hold the charge anymore .
It seemed that the type of batt I used was overcharged from the bike system. I tought that the AC regulator already installed on the bike in serie with the 35 amps rectifier was to do the job, but as it appeared, it doesn't regulate the DC charge on the battery, meaning when the battery is full it should stop the charge. So I installed the Batt Elim, but the end result is that the bike is running like there is no battery as it came originally. May be the batt elim is not working properly. Lights fluctuate and slow blinking of the turn signals with no horn. But when revs are up, all is OK.
If anyone can give feedback on this Batt Elim set up, it will be appreciated. Also what about a voltage regulator fitted to the task ?
Posted August 18, 2003 - 07:43 AM
Posted August 18, 2003 - 06:40 PM
I'll do just that tomorrow and let you know the results.
Posted August 19, 2003 - 05:50 PM
I better check on my wiring. What is the proper way to connect the batt elim (capacitor) ? May be there is someone that can send a simple diagram on how to connect it ?
In any case, thanks for the info
Posted August 20, 2003 - 09:40 AM
If you want an explanation of what's happening, here goes:
The voltage that comes out stator varies from a positive to a negative voltage, like waves in a tank, both above and below the water level (zere voltage or "ground"). The frequency varies as the rpms change. The amplitude (height of the waves) also varies, but is considerably in excess of 12 volts of a battery.
Next this voltage is run into the regulator, which clips the tops and bottoms off the waves, so that the voltage never gets too far from ground in either + or - polarity, (probably less that 35V, if I remember right).
Next the regulated voltage goes into a rectifier, which is an araingement of diodes that only let the current flow one direction. What this does is flip the sign on the negative voltage, so it becomes positive, but not vise-versa. So anytime the voltage is -20V, it becomes +20 volts, and any time its +20V, it stays +20 V.
Now you have a voltage that varies from 0V to something less than 35V. If you run this into a battery or a cap, its like taking a garden hose that is pulsing and dumping it into a bucket. A hole in the bottom of a bucket will flow at a steady rate that is the average of the pulsing garden hose. And that is what you use to run your lights, you get a steady voltage so they won't flicker.
Be aware that a battery is a very large bucket, while this cap will be a small bucket. So if your garden hose pulsing changes, the small bucket (cap) drains quicker than a large one (battery).
Posted August 22, 2003 - 08:56 AM
I did some testing today.
With the lights on, the voltage is about half of what it is when the lights are off.
I think I have to do more research to fully understand why my system isn't working as it should.
I'll get back to you