187 replies to this topic

[MANIAC998]

I wonder if Triple Expanding Hole Foam would work? I can't think of why it wouldn't.
Maniac

[YAMAHASAVAGE TT Newbie]

MANIAC998, on 17 May 2012 - 05:48 PM, said:

I wonder if Triple Expanding Hole Foam would work? I can't think of why it wouldn't.
Maniac

I've used this before but couldn't really tell a difference. Maybe it's too light, like using cool whip (umm).

[MANIAC998]

Ahhhh..... that was the only reason I could come up with on why it wouldn't work. Thank you Sir!!!
Maniac

[Rocky739 TT Bronze Member]

Maybe time to call mythbusters!

[MaxPower TT Gold Member]

I forgot what forks you are running RS25
I remembered you switched them out from stock. What about running a top clamp with rubber mounted bars?
I know some road bikes have weighted bar ends. Going off that idea what about plugging the bars about 3 inches in and heating sinker lead and pouring it in leaving enough room for your hand guard mounts
And maybe you could fill the bars with silicone by say "casting" 1 inch sections of silicone plugs in a old bar and somehow stuffing them into the depths of the bar where the silicone would not dry if you just squirted it in there. I dont really expect these ideas to work but Im just brain storming. Enough silly ideas in the right direction can lead to a solution.

[rs25]

Rocky739, on 17 May 2012 - 05:22 PM, said:

So the newer (higher flow I assume?) oil pump isn't nessary for the nozzle to operate?? That would save some cash for sure.. Thought more flow couldn't be a bad thing while I was in there, but I could add it later I suppose. Maybe the money tree will bloom early this year!

Rocky, the new oil pump p/n is too similar in digits to be a completely different pump. I know for a 2006 WR450 motor vs 2007 YFZ450 motor, the only difference is the first 3 digits which is from my understanding just the model number, not a difference in the part. As far as the pump rotor, the part number appears to be identical. (reference part numbers taken from cheapcycleparts.com)

5D3-13300-00-00 (YFZ450 pump)
5TA-13300-00-00 (WR450f pump)

5TA-13320-00-00 (YFZ450 pump rotor)
5TA-13320-00-00 (WR450f pump rotor)

In my situation, both my pump and the rotor ingested debris damaging both parts, so a new assembly was needed. Could you get away with only running the nozzle... I believe so.

Thanks everyone for you suggestions, I am still looking for the solution.

MaxPower, I'm running 2006 48mm WR450f forks.

[Rocky739 TT Bronze Member]

Thanks RS, I will get the nozzle ordered ASAP! Lucky I have a friend a few blocks away with a milling machine so the case mod will be a snap..
Have you played with your jetting anymore? Just wondering what needle and main was working for you?

[rs25]

Well heres the update I promised;

First Rocky, I'm still playing with the jetting, but so far this is how it's looking

4-15 degree C : 170 m, 48 p, 1 turn, 4th clip Red needle
16-25 degree C : 168 m, 45 p, 2.25 turn, 3rd clip Red needle.

I hate carbs.

Ok, now on to the good stuff... modifications

Here's the p/n's I odered;
5UM-11166-00-00 (hose assy)
90467-17128-00 (clip)
5TJ-14243-00-00 (bracket)

I like how some of us re-route the factory cylinder vent hose to the airbox.. so I decided why not make this happen... only real difference between how others have done it vs how I've done the mod, is I found the hose that fits the chassis correctly. I used a 2011 WR250f as my template for parts selection. The parts I ordered from Yamaha included the vent line, a clip, and the small C shaped bracket which bolts to the carb. The screws and the little round bushing I got from the hardware store in the plumbing isle.



Anyways, I received the parts, and I was wondering where to drill the hole in the airbox... until I noticed the raised boss in the fwd face of the airbox.. which surprisingly enough lined up perfectly with where the hose wanted to go. Keep in mind the picture is upside-down... I had to rotate the subframe upwards to gain access with a drill.



After I drilled the hole, I inserted the bushing from the inside of the carb going outwards. I sealed the bushing in place using some silicone... but I'll probably remove that stuff and use some 2 pt epoxy glue instead.



Then, I routed the vent hose from the valve cover to the airbox. Next I mounted the little C shaped bracket. Keep in mind the reason why it doesn't line up properly with the carb is because I'm using a CRF/KX carb, not the factory YZ/WR carb (that one is a bolt up w/o modifications using existing screws).

Also while I was there, I routed the two carb vent lines up to under the fuel tank.







Well that's it for right now.

Edited by rs25, 21 May 2012 - 06:08 PM.