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2004 WR450F bringin' her back from the dead project




232 replies to this topic
  • zibbit u2

    TT Bronze Member

340 posts
Location: British Columbia

Posted November 17, 2011 - 02:13 PM


Today I received all the wiring parts I needed to redo the lighting harness, unfortunately I don't think I'll get started on it tonight because I've got hockey. Then tomorrow's also out for working on the bike as I've got a meeting with Jeff Martin from a band known as The Tea Party to discuss a recording contract... so.. I guess the next update should be Sunday. Anyways, here's what a whole shiat load of aircraft wiring looks like in the raw.. I think I ordered too much... lol, but I suppose it's better to have too much than too little.

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  • zibbit u2

    TT Bronze Member

340 posts
Location: British Columbia

Posted November 24, 2011 - 01:34 AM


Time for some more updates now that my internetz is back up... damn telus. :lol:

I got quite a bit done on the harness this weekend continuing into this week, but I'm still not quite there. I knew it was going to take some time to do the wiring like I wanted it, but I never quite realized just how much work it was actually going to be. What a tedious job. I think I've got everything pretty much layed out, so as to not interfere with anything (headlight masks, cables, items for the wires to chafe on).

This is basicly the view from standing directly in front of the bike with your head essentially on the front tire looking up. Something to note, I had to raise the gauge mount & cable stay on the tripple up to allow more room under it to accomodate the relays, flashers and wiring to clear the headlight mask.

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As you might have noticed, I'm color coding the connectors to eliminate any possibilities of hooking up the wires in the wrong places. I still have a couple circuits to run, most notably the ground distrubution and the horn & flasher circuits. So slowly I'll get to the door... one baby step at a time.

After about 7hrs, my eyes started to cross staring at wiring, so to rest my brain I decided to move on to something else. So I mounted the new to me 13mm Brembo M/C that I picked up over on SMJ.

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and while I was at it, I re-mounted the Brembo GP caliper and QTMi bracket. It's a shame I can't use the EBC 320mm rotor pictured... so if anyone wants it for cheap, it's yours. I'm still trying to decide which front rotor I'm going to go for, it's a toss up between a QTMi/Brembo 320mm rotor and a Braking 320mm rotor... I'll have to see which one comes up cheaper over the holidays.

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Next, I was tempted to see kind of what the bike will kinda look like once it's done.. so, I temporarily mounted some of the yellow plastics (and grafics) and did a trial fit to see how my factory seat merged with the clarke tank.. (I didn't like the fit around the filler neck).

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So, to fix the poorly fitting seat to tank, I started the merged of my factory seat with a SDG YZ450 seat. I still need to finish shaping the seat foam and figure out how to actually install the seat cover.. I can't get a staple to actually go thru the seat base... that plastic is redicously hard.

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Well let me know what you think... This thread is pretty one sided

  • MANIAC998
4,943 posts
Location: New York
Garage View Garage

Posted November 24, 2011 - 05:28 AM


RS25, Nice looking bike!!! As for the seat base plastic, I finally bought an air stapler after years of struggling with hand powered staplers. Just do it! One of the greatest investments I've made for this lifestyle addiction I call "Dirtbiking"!!! Maniac

  • zibbit u2

    TT Bronze Member

340 posts
Location: British Columbia

Posted November 24, 2011 - 11:18 PM


Good tip Maniac.. :lol: I went out and bought one today, a good ol' cheapy Performance Plus 20ga air stapler from Home Hardware for 45 bucks. I tested it out using the same T-50 staples that my manual stapler was using, sure as shiznach the staples hit their mark the first time, everytime.

Next, I sat on the SDG seat for a little while (15mins), and I couldn't wait to get off the bike. WOW.. people complain about WR's seats being horrible.. nah.. early SDG seats are. It felt like I was sitting on concrete, it was excessively firm that it was making my arse scream bloody murder. I will admit tho, my seat foam is almost 8yrs old compared to new stuff, so maybe that's the time it takes for WR's seats to break in.. :) So, I re-thought my approach at sealing that gap between the tank and the seat.

Instead, I'm going to slide the factory seat foam forward about 3/8" on the base, which effectily seals the gap. Unfortunately that means that the rear of the seat now needs some work to make it look proper. So, I'm going to use the seat foam from the SDG seat to create a raised section of a stepped seat. Then to cover it all, I'm going to use the SDG seat cover because I really do like the fit and finish of it.

  • MANIAC998
4,943 posts
Location: New York
Garage View Garage

Posted November 25, 2011 - 04:19 AM


Glad it worked out for you! Those air staplers are the only way to go!!! Keep up the excellent work, were all watching!!! Maniac

  • MaxPower

    TT Platinum Member

1,742 posts
Location: New Jersey

Posted November 26, 2011 - 04:28 AM


RS25, Nice looking bike!!! As for the seat base plastic, I finally bought an air stapler after years of struggling with hand powered staplers. Just do it! One of the greatest investments I've made for this lifestyle addiction I call "Dirtbiking"!!! Maniac

Im a carpenter and got a staple gun as part of a package deal a few years ago.The only reason I would ever use it it to staple the back panels of a dresser or something like that on, and I dont do much of that.So the staple gun is at the bottom of the shit pile in the shed. Never thought of using it for seats.But that means now I have to dig to find it.

  • MaxPower

    TT Platinum Member

1,742 posts
Location: New Jersey

Posted November 26, 2011 - 04:36 AM


Good tip Maniac.. :lol: I went out and bought one today, a good ol' cheapy Performance Plus 20ga air stapler from Home Hardware for 45 bucks. I tested it out using the same T-50 staples that my manual stapler was using, sure as shiznach the staples hit their mark the first time, everytime.

Next, I sat on the SDG seat for a little while (15mins), and I couldn't wait to get off the bike. WOW.. people complain about WR's seats being horrible.. nah.. early SDG seats are. It felt like I was sitting on concrete, it was excessively firm that it was making my arse scream bloody murder. I will admit tho, my seat foam is almost 8yrs old compared to new stuff, so maybe that's the time it takes for WR's seats to break in.. :) So, I re-thought my approach at sealing that gap between the tank and the seat.

Instead, I'm going to slide the factory seat foam forward about 3/8" on the base, which effectily seals the gap. Unfortunately that means that the rear of the seat now needs some work to make it look proper. So, I'm going to use the seat foam from the SDG seat to create a raised section of a stepped seat. Then to cover it all, I'm going to use the SDG seat cover because I really do like the fit and finish of it.

As an idea with the SDG seat, could you make brackets to grab the suframe like the WR seat? And to clear the batter maybe you could get one of the new school batteries. You know our bikes only light compared to a KLR650 and could lose a few pounds.
And you can soften the SDG seat by stratigically boring holes in the foam from the bottom of the foam up with a hole saw.
Ive ridden a lot of road bicycles. When I first start riding I cant believe how hard the seat is. After a month of riding I have no problem with 5 hours of pedaling.You get used to the seat is what Im saying.But (butt?) if you are using yours on the road more like I am I guess a soft seat wouldnt hurt anything

At some point Id love to get the billet rear rack


  • zibbit u2

    TT Bronze Member

340 posts
Location: British Columbia

Posted December 01, 2011 - 03:28 PM


Time for a quick update.

Well I finished running the wires, and I decided to use part of the factory wiring harness to provide power to the lighting system. At the under seat Starter Relay, there was a unused pin, which when metered was always live. So I decided to run my 12vdc power source from that location. That way, the power runs from the battery, thru the underseat 10A fuse, and then from it's own terminal on the relay to the handlebar switch. For the ground, I'm again using factory wiring as my template. I re-crimped a new connector to the one quick disconnect negative lead (pictured) and attached my ground distribution wiring to that location. To cover all the wires I decided to go a little different route than using electrical tape like the factory. I'm using a bunch of Heat Shrink tubing... I'm over lapping each joint to seal the wires from any outside moisture. This is what it will look like;

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I'm surprised, even just using heatshrink instead of electrical tape, the wire bundle drastrically shrinks in size. So not only will more wires be going to each location, but the overall diameter is smaller and more protected from stray voltage and abrasion.

Only problem will be if there is a problem... BOY the wires will be difficult to retrieve from inside the loom.

MaxPower, it's actually more detailed to modify the SDG seat base than that. Yes you'd have to create brackets to grab the subframe, but then you'd loose the center seat support spacers which are moulded into the base which keep the distance between the seat to subframe. Also even with a new battery there still wouldn't be enough room under there to clear the center of the seat.. I'd have to cut out the center support of the seat base to clear even the starter relay... Believe me.. I tried to make it work.. In the end, I think I'll have a seat which fits the chassis like OEM, is more comfortable and which looks aftermarket.

I did also consider drilling holes in the foam to soften it up like what all the DRZ guys do to their factory seats, but then your introducing area's for moisture to collect.. which causes mold to grow.. which in turn ends up degrading the foam quicker than usual.. so.. I'm again left with just using the factory foam, re-shaping it a little and having a comfy arse end at the end of a longer day of riding.

  • MaxPower

    TT Platinum Member

1,742 posts
Location: New Jersey

Posted December 04, 2011 - 09:21 AM


I was just brainstorming. I can tell you clearly know what you are doing. Im impressed with the rewiring . Im an electrical failure

  • zibbit u2

    TT Bronze Member

340 posts
Location: British Columbia

Posted December 05, 2011 - 03:34 PM


MaxPower, yeah I understand exactly what you mean. I used to be in the same boat as you until I actually got proper training thru the Royal Canadian Airforce to finally understand the mysteries involved with electron flow... yet, my knowledge isn't 100% as lets say a electrician who works on this stuff everyday, because all we were taught in training was just the basics, or enough to get us by so we could read a wiring diagram, maybe calculate volts/amps/current to hopefully problem solve a system. In reality I'm a axial flow turbine engine guy... I know the General Electric F404 engine better than I know the backside of my own hand, but that's just because I work strickly on that piece of kit day in, day out.

This just happens to be my favorite view from one of my work stations... there's just something about 15,500 lbs/thrust of raw unadulterated power at your finger tips that brings such a happy feeling to your pants...

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Ok.. back on topic...

Here's another smallish update. With the holidays coming up, the pace at work has slowed significantly which allowed me to work breifly on personal projects. So, sub project #1.. The seat. I attempted to do the step in the seat, but I couldn't get the cover to sit well, so, I ripped off the added foam, finished reshaping the tail section of the seat and covered the whole unit with the SDG seat cover. I'm quite pleased with the results. The seat lines up to the tank to my liking, and the cover is as wrinkle free as I could make it. It was not too bad of a job. I ended up shifting the seat foam forward on the base about 1/2", reshaping the edges of the foam to line up with the repositioned base, and then added a little bit of foam to the tail section. Only thing you might be able to notice is now the tail section goes to almost more of a point from the factory blunt/bulky seat shape. Here's how it looks;

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Second sub project.. The exhaust manifold has taken a beating, and as a result it's develloped a few fairly substantial dents. So I'm in the process of filling the pipe with water, freezing it, and hoping with fingers crossed that it'll push out the dents. After the first freeze/thaw cycle it appeard that the small dent was almost completely removed, while the larger dent still remained. We'll see tomorrow how she looks when I pull it out of the freezer. This is the before, in a few days hopefully I'll have a couple improved shots;

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Then the continuation of the main project. I've got the rear section (battery aft) all closed up, with the connectors installed where I wanted them to reside. Now, I should have no issues with airflow to the airbox, and everything is pretty tidy even without using any zap-straps to hold anything securely into place. Here's what the crimps look like before any connector gets installed.

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and this is going to be the wrought locations of the wire harness at the tail section.

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  • SPLATT

    TT Gold Member

1,056 posts
Location: Washington

Posted December 05, 2011 - 05:55 PM


If you want a more durable header pipe a stainless one from a YFZ450 quad will fit right on there.

  • zibbit u2

    TT Bronze Member

340 posts
Location: British Columbia

Posted December 05, 2011 - 10:13 PM


hmm.. I'll have to look into that... depending how the dent "push" goes. Do you know which years are compadible? I'm already investigating putting a YFZ450 clutch basket on the bike due to the shock disapating spring system on them, but again I'm partially lost as to which years would work.

  • YamRZ350

    TT Member

28 posts
Location: Pennsylvania

Posted December 06, 2011 - 05:28 PM


I have an 05 WR450 that I built into a motard.

The clutch parts I used were out of an 05, but I believe I've seen them listed on e-bay as 04-09. I used a primary drive out of the yfz as well. The only part that didn't directly cross over was the hub nut lock washer.

Zero issues so far, 6600 mi. since I finished it in June.

  • SPLATT

    TT Gold Member

1,056 posts
Location: Washington

Posted December 06, 2011 - 05:40 PM


hmm.. I'll have to look into that... depending how the dent "push" goes. Do you know which years are compadible? I'm already investigating putting a YFZ450 clutch basket on the bike due to the shock disapating spring system on them, but again I'm partially lost as to which years would work.


Well according to Yamaha's parts listing it's the same part# from 2003-2012. I think the one I got on my 2004 WR is from a 2004 YFZ.

  • zibbit u2

    TT Bronze Member

340 posts
Location: British Columbia

Posted December 06, 2011 - 05:40 PM


sweet, good to know. Thanks ppl :lol:

  • zibbit u2

    TT Bronze Member

340 posts
Location: British Columbia

Posted December 16, 2011 - 04:52 PM


Well this will be the last update until after the new year, it's time to do the 19hr drive (each way) to spend time with family. I'm so happy that Santa came early this year.. unfortuntately he charged me extra for the visit... ah well, at least he brought the new front rotor which was top of my list because it was the last part I needed to complete the front brake upgrade. You gotta love www.twowheelsteals.com opps I mean.. Santa's website.. :smirk:

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Anyways, to all the people that read this thread, have a safe and happy holidays.

Sean- :bonk:

  • MANIAC998
4,943 posts
Location: New York
Garage View Garage

Posted December 17, 2011 - 04:28 AM


:bonk::worthy::worthy:Sean:worthy::smirk::worthy:

Extremely nice work!!!

Where can I get those connector spades? They look like a perfect match for the stock electrical system. Maniac

  • zibbit u2

    TT Bronze Member

340 posts
Location: British Columbia

Posted December 17, 2011 - 01:12 PM


All those connectors spades are available at;

www.corsa-technic.com or,
www.easternbeaver.com

You are right, they are the same spades that are in the factory harness. Just note, you'll also have to pick up a unsheilded spade crimper. The crimper at corsa is the one I picked up.

  • zibbit u2

    TT Bronze Member

340 posts
Location: British Columbia

Posted December 17, 2011 - 02:20 PM


Oh, also I forgot to mention the new to me set of Fluidine Radiators which I picked up in the TT classifieds. They were mounted on a WR426, but, they fit fine on the steel WR450.

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Sure they have some bent fins, but I really don't care because it won't affect the performance of them... Plus, they'll out perform my bent stock rads.. which is a bonus.

  • MANIAC998
4,943 posts
Location: New York
Garage View Garage

Posted December 17, 2011 - 05:34 PM


Thanks for the info!!! You are a gentleman, and a scholar! Maniac




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