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2004 WR450F bringin' her back from the dead project




232 replies to this topic
  • zibbit u2

    TT Bronze Member

342 posts
Location: British Columbia

Posted April 21, 2011 - 06:12 PM


Megadeth.. don't part it.. I'll sell you a good complete head w/valves, and cylinder for cheap enough to make it worth it for you to rebuild that bike. I don't want to see another WR sent to the great partout realm of Ebay... You name the price.

  • MrBlahh

    Get Help Now

8,078 posts
Location: North Carolina

Posted April 23, 2011 - 05:18 PM


I sent you a PM, I'm still leaning towards parting it out

even if I undercut lowest price on ebay parts by 30 % I'm still quite a bit better off parting it out

  • Sknight

    TT Bronze Member

151 posts
Location: Georgia

Posted April 23, 2011 - 09:02 PM


If you decide to part it make sure to hit me up.

  • zibbit u2

    TT Bronze Member

342 posts
Location: British Columbia

Posted May 18, 2011 - 10:17 AM


Wow, I guess it's time for a short update. I haven't been working on the bike too much lately because work has got me tied up doing a CF-18 Propulsion Advanced Troubleshooting course. But, if I can spare a few moments in the eveneen to rest my eyes and recharge my brain from the course I'd plug away at the bike. I'm still waiting for the majority of the engine internal parts to arrive from various vendors, but I did receive a couple new parts.

A lightspeed CF glide plate - which is a phenominal piece of craftsmanship. My graphic kit came in from Bikegraphix, which I installed. Also I finished the cleaning/inspection of every internal part to the engine, along with setting up my engine build station how I like it with all the parts separated, cleaned and organized into subsections. I will however have to use the oven and the dry-ice at work to do all of the bearing installs, but for the most part I should be able to do all the assembly in the basement. I plan on doing a wet cylinder ring seating (light coat of oil on the cylinder walls) rather than a dry seat like some ppl prefer. Also, I'm already in the planning stages for the fall build on the bike for street usage. I managed to pick up from the classifieds here a retro hurricane yellow kit, and I'm designing a custom wiring harness to run the accessories using some DRZ400sm bits, and other nice to have accessories (heated grips, etc). Along with I'm in talks with a DNA wheel producer to send me some Motard rims, so I can lace up using custom (or oem?) spokes to some factory WR hubs. Anyways, here's some pictures cause I know everyone likes picture time.. lol

The bike as she stands right now

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Also my engine building station (don't mind the hor stab of the RC F4U Corsair)

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  • zibbit u2

    TT Bronze Member

342 posts
Location: British Columbia

Posted May 24, 2011 - 10:37 PM


Ok, another small update. With the long weekend just past and the crank still in customs, :smirk: and I just couldn't justify leaving the bike sitting idle in the basement without some form of progress. So, I installed the transmission bearings into the case halves, using some supplies at work in the form of an oven along with a dry ice machine which we've affectionately named The Snowman. I almost couldn't believe that the bearings could be installed without having to use a press (which I anticipated that I needed, and was prepared for). Each super-cooled bearing was lowered carefully using needlenose pliers into the case halves, which I heated to around 300 degrees celcius the oven. It was like dropping a hot knife thru butter. After I got the cases back home, I installed (hopefully for the last time) the transmission assembly. What a pain in the butt trying to get all the shift forks lined up properly. I tested the shifting, and it grabs each gear smoothly. So that killed Saturday.

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Sunday, I was bored so I decided to have a little fun playing with some carbon fiber... I've played briefly with fiberglass in the past to patch rust holes in quarter panels, but each time the body man had to fix multiple mistakes. So, I educated myself on simple wet lay-up vacuum bagging techniques on Youtube, and decided hey.. why not try.. lol

I decided to start on a fairly flat part on the bike which I figured would be the easiest (and cheapest to replace in case of a fubar attempt). I started by cleaning the part VERY well, and then layed down a moderate layer of epoxy resin directly on the part. I waited for the epoxy to flash, then layed 2 layers of CF mat at about 60 deg offset to eachother. Between each layer I did that "stipple" pattern to wet out the cloth. Once I was pleased how the CF was laying on the part, I placed the whole thing into a clear plastic garbage bag with a microfiber towel underneath it (inside the bag), sealed the opening, and turned on the shop vac and waited for the part to cure. I should add, I used a credit card to push the excess resin out of the part into the microfiber towel while smoothing the bag around it. Once the part finished curing enough to hold it's shape, I turned off the vacuum, sealed the openning and let the part sit for another 6 or so hours in the hot sunshine to cure.

Once the part was out of the bag, It appeared to almost not have enough resin in the part and you could actually see the weave/texture of the CF mat. So I added another light skim coat of epoxy over it to smooth out the texture, then I waited for that to cure, then trimmed the edges. Then I grabbed my handy dandy C4 Gas Mask and started sanding. I started with a dry 100 grit paper, then moved progressively higher in multiple steps a final sand of 2000 wet. Follow with a quick polish (still needs more polishing)... and this is the almost final result :smirk: (the side airbox cover)

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Well, let me know what you think

  • MANIAC998
4,944 posts
Location: New York
Garage View Garage

Posted May 25, 2011 - 03:58 AM


Damn! That's nice! You do nice work. Glad to see your rebuilding the beast the right way! Maniac

  • zibbit u2

    TT Bronze Member

342 posts
Location: British Columbia

Posted May 25, 2011 - 10:41 AM


Thanks Maniac. I think this weekend I'm going to attempt to skim the Airbox door. I'm just trying to figure out how I'm going to accomplish that. I'm thinking I'm going to have to start with the 3 door recessed places (for the twist clips handles), then move on to the outter layer in two steps. Because I really don't think the CF mat will want to drop into the holes easily and still maintain it's weive pattern. If not, I may just do the outter skim coat, and just neatly cut the holes for the openings and leave them bare.

  • GCannon

    TT Gold Member

1,396 posts
Location: California

Posted May 26, 2011 - 09:11 AM


the intake cam journel is pretty bad, the buckets would not come out until I removed a metal lip that was forming at the cam

all 3 intake valves hit the piston, 1 is bent badly, the other 2 probably are but I cant see it visibly

I've heard of getting the cam journals welded and machined, now idea how much it costs, I am not sure if I will repair this engine or part it out, this place does it, http://enginedynamics.com/index.html


This is caused by overtorquing the cam caps after valve adjustment.

Engine Dynamics can fix it by shaving the mating surface on the cam caps and cylinder head and then line boring the cam journal back to correct size.

Looks like your head will need significant work anyway.

  • MrBlahh

    Get Help Now

8,078 posts
Location: North Carolina

Posted May 26, 2011 - 10:22 AM


This is caused by overtorquing the cam caps after valve adjustment.

Engine Dynamics can fix it by shaving the mating surface on the cam caps and cylinder head and then line boring the cam journal back to correct size.

Looks like your head will need significant work anyway.


even factory spec/stock torque is too much imo

bike is gone, needed too much

  • GCannon

    TT Gold Member

1,396 posts
Location: California

Posted May 27, 2011 - 08:42 AM


even factory spec/stock torque is too much imo


I agree!

  • travertt

    TT Bronze Member

422 posts
Location: Ontario

Posted May 27, 2011 - 10:32 AM


Hey Megadeth...if you're going to part out your '04...please let me know. I have an '04 in good shape but could use some bits.

Thanks

  • zibbit u2

    TT Bronze Member

342 posts
Location: British Columbia

Posted May 29, 2011 - 10:59 PM


well small update. Crank came in on Friday, so I spent most of the weekend working day or night to build the motor, and finish up the bike. Friday night I got the main bearings and crank installed using the dry ice method instead of using a press. Again, it was a drop fit. Then I spent most of the night installing all the exterior engine bits external to the case halves... except I had to stop because my roomate lent out some of my tools and didn't inform me, which were kinda important for the build (27mm & 30mm sockets)... so.. that halted me fairly quickly. I was a little pissed.. ah well.. I got them back on Sunday so I could continue. So, Sunday I finished the motor, installed it, did a no ign/no fuel motoring of the engine to build up oil pressure and check for coolant leaks. Once that was complete I installed the plug, filled the tank, and one kick later.. SHE FIRED RIGHT UP!!!!

First impressions of the bike riding it... **** this thing is a beast, and quite frankly it scares the crudd outta me with anything over 1/2 throttle.. lol.. I found out that in fact if you roll on to the throttle a little too aggressively on pavement, she will do a rolling burnout by accident. The front wheel floats VERY easily on any terrain, but it is manageable. Brakes.. need work. I think I've gotta bleed them some more because they just don't feel like there's enough power there to slow this bike down quickly.

I do however need to figure out my headlight.. I'm wondering if maybe I messed up switching one of the connectors coming off the stator (plugging a 06 stator into a 04 bike wiring harness).. because as you run the bike, the headlight will follow it's brightness with the RPM's of the motor. Until you hit 1/2 throttle.. then POP.. the headlight is blown. If you measure the voltage, it'll go from about 1V to 14+ V with RPM. The two wires in question for me are the White/Yellow combo wires which I had to modify.

I've still got some loose ends to finish up with the bike in the next few day.. I'll make sure I post some picts.

  • miweber929

    TT Silver Member

596 posts
Location: Minnesota

Posted May 30, 2011 - 04:09 AM


Sounds like you regulator is not hooked up, hooked up correctly or is bad. There are like 5 threads in here about how and what to check.

Mike

  • zibbit u2

    TT Bronze Member

342 posts
Location: British Columbia

Posted June 02, 2011 - 09:15 PM


Well, I ran the bike for 5 days so far, boy does my body hurt.. lol. In that time I've already changed out the oil/filter after maybe 3hrs worth of riding, and I'll wait another couple of hours to change out the oil/filter again. Also in that time I had to push the bike almost 3km's out of the bush because I fouled a plug... (more later on that) I will say the first oil change the oil was pretty clear, but the filter definitely was doing it's job. There was soo much crudd on the filter, it was almost embarrasing. I thought I cleaned the parts really well.. I guess I missed some. But, that's what doing quick oil changes/filter changes are for after a rebuild.. to catch all that stuff you missed.

As far as my electrical issues... I thought I checked the whole bike properly with my cheapy multimeter, and I thought everything passed. So I ordered a regulator to change it out on spec from reading here. Unfortunately it didn't work. So, I borrowed another multimeter from my work with a valid calibration report, and wow.. what a difference.. turns out the stator was the culprit for my electrical woes as far as lighting is concerned. Luckily I had another serviceable stator assembly in the basement that I could swap out to. So after I finished swapping it out, it was already too late to do any rpm's too far past idle (because it was 11pm), so I didn't have enough time tonight to test out the charging system (which also is acting up) because according to the manual I need aprox 5,000 rpm's to see a proper voltage, so I'll have to check it out tomorrow during daylight hours. But, at idle the headlight/taillight was very bright and was barely affected by idle/off idle rpms. Unfortunately having the charging/lighting issues left me stranded in the bush already once. It fouled one plug because the battery died.

So, I'll also have to check the jetting out to make sure that she's happy with the 48/168 combo once all the electrical issues are sorted out. Or possibly the reason for the fouled plug/stop in the trail was that the battery went flat (aprox 9V charge) after riding the bike these few days.... who knows.. but I'm sure I'll have to figure it out.

  • Sknight

    TT Bronze Member

151 posts
Location: Georgia

Posted June 03, 2011 - 10:20 AM


Anytime you build an engine especially if you have a fresh cylinder hone you'll put some stuff on the filter. As the wall breaks in it produces a really fine metal powder that once mixed with oil looks like dirt.

After a change or two it'll be no worries.

  • zibbit u2

    TT Bronze Member

342 posts
Location: British Columbia

Posted June 03, 2011 - 08:25 PM


Yeah, I thought it would be something along those lines.

So I did some more research, and I happened to stumble upon a stator mod diy instructions for a floating ground, well, it appears that the stator in question was modded. So I emailed the person I bought the engine from, and sure enough, he admitted that he had the trail tech wiring harness installed on his bike. So.. problem with stator solved. Now I just need to find a rectifier that'll work with the setup.. anyone have any idea's where to get a universal rectifier assembly from either a autoparts store, or another brand of bike? I really would like to get my charging system eliminated from the equation before I start the jetting phaze.

  • PBDBLUE

    TT Titanium Member

2,245 posts
Location: California

Posted June 04, 2011 - 05:51 AM


Yeah, I thought it would be something along those lines.

So I did some more research, and I happened to stumble upon a stator mod diy instructions for a floating ground, well, it appears that the stator in question was modded. So I emailed the person I bought the engine from, and sure enough, he admitted that he had the trail tech wiring harness installed on his bike. So.. problem with stator solved. Now I just need to find a rectifier that'll work with the setup.. anyone have any idea's where to get a universal rectifier assembly from either a autoparts store, or another brand of bike? I really would like to get my charging system eliminated from the equation before I start the jetting phaze.


https://www.bajadesi..., (dc) (unwired)

or

http://www.trailtech...7003-RR150.html

  • zibbit u2

    TT Bronze Member

342 posts
Location: British Columbia

Posted June 04, 2011 - 04:16 PM


Thanks for the link ^^^

Well, I've got the jetting almost there, I think it'll be one more needle adjustment then it should be good. I'll take the bike for another spin then pull the plug to be sure.

But, here's how the bike looks. I'm really pleased, and bruised with this bike. Let me know what you think.

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  • CanadianWR450

    TT Bronze Member

374 posts
Location: New Brunswick

Posted June 05, 2011 - 03:22 AM


Man, I really like that white rear fender. Is it a UFO?
I just got done doing my 04 as well, pretty much cosmetic only for me though as I did the engine last year. Pic's on the "what did you do to your WR" thread.

http://www.thumperta...532303&page=249

  • travertt

    TT Bronze Member

422 posts
Location: Ontario

Posted June 05, 2011 - 06:02 AM


Back from the dead (congratulations)...looking god...AND what appears to be a full plate on the back..

Sweeet!!!!




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