05WR450F Valve clearence..


10 replies to this topic
  • chiefster1976

Posted April 01, 2011 - 03:24 AM

#1

VALVE CLEARENCE question... Checked the valves after i have fitted a new piston rings etc......
Intake..... book specs show 0.10-0.15mm standard... I have 0.10mm on ALL of them :ride:

Exhaust...... book shows 0.20-0.25mm
Offside exhaust valve shows 0.20mm. :
NEAR SIDE exhaust valve shows 0.15mm...:sad-smile

ALL a little on the tight side hey!!!:confused-

...Would this matter much in performance?? Does the near side exhaust valve need changing??

So what i can figure out with the book is i need to increase the gap by 0.5mm, so that means going down on the spacer number?? I.E. if installed is 175 go down to 170???
No markings on the valve spacers(rubbed off with age) how can i tell what is the number of the spacer??? Thanks...Gav...:cheers:

  • MANIAC998

Posted April 01, 2011 - 04:27 AM

#2

As for performance, you wouldn't notice much with them running a little tight. But personally, I would shim all of them so that they are right on the edge of too large (.25mm exhaust, .15mm intake). I've never seen a clearance increase, they always tighten up, so this will buy you the most time before needing to shim again. Otherwise, you might burn up a valve.
The sizes are printed on the underside of the shims, but it is possible that it's worn off. In that case, you can measure them with any caliper (Digital, Vernier) to figure out what size they are. If you don't have a caliper, you can take the shims to your local dealer and they should be able to measure them. Then you can order the correct one's. Good luck! Maniac

  • chiefster1976

Posted April 04, 2011 - 10:26 PM

#3

thanks maniac..I will do all of them...Dont want any burnt out valves hey..bloody expensive.. What would one expect to pay for 5 shims on average??

  • MANIAC998

Posted April 05, 2011 - 04:26 AM

#4

A few dollars apiece over here, which means something like $20 a piece over there!!! Just kidding! You might be able to "trade" them with the dealer for the correct ones. I've had some luck doing that over here with the local Yamaha dealers. Do you have any mates that might have a whole shim kit? Maniac

  • chiefster1976

Posted April 15, 2011 - 01:43 AM

#5

Hey Maniac... No mates with shims unfortunatly..
I would have bought a full shim kite but at $150 alomost seems steep so i won an order through ebay at $3 each shim...

O.k.. Small problem with Shim Markings VS vernier results...

Exhaust do not show Numbers on them...
Reading as per verniers..=

1.86 and 1.82...

Inlet actual stamped numbers...From left to right(Near side)

184/188/189..
AS per verniers below..

1.82/1.86/1.87..

As you can see the verniers are showing less than the stamped number dictates...
I need to OPEn up my valves as there are(in previous posts) on the tight side..

I have looked at the chart in the service book and shows as follows..

LAST DIGIT PAD Rounded Value.
NUMBER
0,1 or 2. 0
4,5,6 5
8 or 9 10..

Now im aware i have to lower my current pads by 0.5mm.. And apparently only come in 0.5mm increments but my pads show odd numbers..

I can work out what i need but not sure wether i should go on the vernier measurements or the actual stamped numbers on the current shims????:thumbsup:

I am ordering just the shims i need and NOT a full kit so i want to get this right first time....
What do you think guys???

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  • MANIAC998

Posted April 15, 2011 - 04:51 AM

#6

Gav, Which one of your exhaust valves was the tightest? The one with 1.86 or 1.82?

As for the intakes, you can juggle some around so all you have to order is three total. Use the 184 in place of the 189, and use the measured 182 exhaust one in place of the 188 intake one.

You will have to order one 180 for the remaining intake and possibly two for the exhausts. If the 186 was the tightest on the exhaust, I'd order up a 175 for it. If the 182 was the tightest on the exhaust, I'd switch it over to the other side and use it in place of the 186 exhaust, and order up a 170 for the remaining exhaust. Hopefully this isn't to confusing!!! Just let us know which measured shim was the tightest on the exhaust. Maniac

  • chiefster1976

Posted April 15, 2011 - 05:35 AM

#7

Im with ya here...

the N.Side exhaust was the tightest at 0.18mm. O/S was 0.20 dead...

so as per your thoughts..

Ex
N.S.. left to right 175(order) 170(order)

N.S Inlet left to Right, 180(order) ,182(as verniers show) ,184 (existing inlet swop ).. :thumbsup:

So im guessing here that the exhaust are the ones that seem to tighten more than Inlet usually(if at all)?

I can see the O.S far inlet at 184(from 189) ,but
Wouldnt the N.S inlet need to be 180, as the stamp showed 184(1.84mm) ,but the verniers showed 1.82mm

probably looking waaaaaay too much into it here..lol..

  • miweber929

Posted April 15, 2011 - 07:36 AM

#8

Meaning this nicely, but did you zero out the vernier and are you not pushing hard on it to get your measurement? It should just be lightly held between the jaws to get an accurate measurment.

Shims really shouldn't wear normally and all your measurements seem off by the same amount which leads me to believe a caliper issue.

  • tribalbc

Posted April 15, 2011 - 08:53 AM

#9

Shims always come in smaller on the venier's, but it's consistent, so figure out your error and go from there.
Best to shim them on the tight end of spec. They don't move often, and this increases engine performance, longetivity, and they're a little quieter.
You can use Honda shims as well. Same size, come in odd sizes, not just 170,175, etc, and they're usually a little cheaper :thumbsup:
Though I never have a problem finding shims for $5 a pop around here.

  • chiefster1976

Posted April 16, 2011 - 03:42 PM

#10

I have new verniers and i do know how to use them...LOL

Yes the readings are consistant at 0.02mm off the stamped numbers on the shims...Not sure what you mean by '' but it's consistent, so figure out your error and go from there.''

Just showing the fact that the verniers show lower readings than stamped numbers..Do the shims wear like this or the numbers on the shims are not that accurate?

im a little confused as earlier in the posts i have been told to go on the higher side of the witin specs limit,

I.E. Run at 0.25mm exhaust and 0.15mm intake as Maniac suggets...

If i leave it as is now, im a little worried about burning out valves..

  • tribalbc

Posted April 16, 2011 - 04:22 PM

#11

I have new verniers and i do know how to use them...LOL

Yes the readings are consistant at 0.02mm off the stamped numbers on the shims...Not sure what you mean by '' but it's consistent, so figure out your error and go from there.''

Just showing the fact that the verniers show lower readings than stamped numbers..Do the shims wear like this or the numbers on the shims are not that accurate?

im a little confused as earlier in the posts i have been told to go on the higher side of the witin specs limit,

I.E. Run at 0.25mm exhaust and 0.15mm intake as Maniac suggets...

If i leave it as is now, im a little worried about burning out valves..



Yes that's what I mean. On the verniers they always come out .02 smaller, even with new shims. So just use the #'s on the shims, a .05 bigger # shim will be .05 bigger than the smaller one.....

Are you really that close to .25 and .15 now? Usually you end up somwere between..... Not a biggie, spec is spec, but like I said, if you can it's better to shim them on the tight side.
Factory does :thumbsup:
If you use Honda or "Factory" Yamaha shims in odd #'s you can get them in there on the tighter end of spec easier.
With a 05 watch them closely for moving again. If they do soon, time for a valve job.




 
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