strongest final drive chain?
Posted March 30, 2011 - 05:53 PM
It was still in ok shape but the chain issue has me concerned so it had to go.
About how many miles should I get out of a decent chain?
Posted March 30, 2011 - 07:34 PM
Posted March 30, 2011 - 08:29 PM
Posted March 30, 2011 - 10:36 PM
Posted March 30, 2011 - 11:56 PM
They must be good. These XP chains are only $230... wow...
They have two other chains also - "Titanium II" & "SmartChain II"
Chain with a brain..... okay....? sure..
"Krause/Sidewinder has develpoed a special limited production chain exclusively reserved for
extreme horsepower applications such as 300 ft, 1/8, 1/4, mile drags; Dune Dragsters and
Frankenstien Quads with monster street engines; Fat -Tire Hayabusas; Big street bike 520
conversion kits; Hillclimbers with NOS and other extended swingarm, Fire-Breathing beasts. This
chain is called "Extreme Performance XP" limited edition chain. This chain is available with or
without SR-51 "Smart Rings"in Double Gold only. Tensile strength exceeds 17,000 lbs. Almost
double anything else made."
Posted March 31, 2011 - 04:33 AM
How would adding a heavier chain and sprockets add the the grunt of a bike? that makes NO sense what so ever.
I wonder if you could fit 530 sprockets and chain on a WR400/426/450. It would probably last forever, and add to the grunt of the bike for sure.
It's not the tensile strength that ruins chains (for the most part) as a 520 works very nicely on my 160 HP CBR1000RR it's adjustments and maintenance. A 50 hp dirtbike should not stretch a proper chain at all.
Not enough lube is bad, to much lube is almost worse. Too loose is bad, too tight is worse.
You get what you pay for when it comes to chains, end of story. Sand and dirt are your enemy. And if you are not changing them all together you will affect the life of the chain. And a too small front sprocket kills them as well along with bad chain guides.
Posted March 31, 2011 - 04:45 AM
While I don't disagree about maintenence and adjustment, and the 1000RR certainly has a stronger pull, I don't think street bikes see the same impact loading that dirt bikes do. I liken it to climbing rope; it's not the heaviest climber who breaks the rope, but the one who falls the furthest.
It's not the tensile strength that ruins chains (for the most part) as a 520 works very nicely on my 160 HP CBR1000RR....
Posted March 31, 2011 - 05:54 PM
Posted April 01, 2011 - 02:14 PM
thanks for the replies. I should be all set now. got an ors6 chain and cut a new measuring block as the old one was getting chewed up. I have the slack at an inch and 3/4 measured from the rear bolt on the slider. I checked the slack every couple inches the entire length of the chain and it's all good.
use a ratchet strap through the rear rim, and over your subframe...ratchet it down until the rear swingarm is LEVEL with the floor. (about half compressed). then check your slack.
this is the point where the chain will be the TIGHTEST in the arc of the swingarm. there must be some slack at this point.
Posted April 01, 2011 - 05:51 PM
Posted April 02, 2011 - 06:33 AM
Posted April 02, 2011 - 12:40 PM