revalve or just replace *FORK* seals

10 replies to this topic
  • humpness

Posted March 22, 2011 - 05:26 PM


Leaking seals so im looking to have either one done on my 07 450. I like the stock suspension but what do i know. I enjoy a mixture of all types of riding. if the price is right for just redoing the dust seals I will do that. Any suggestions? will a revalve blow my mind if done right. I weigh 190 without gear. Id like to do some hare scrambles etc this summer.

Edited by EOYZF, March 23, 2011 - 04:09 PM.

  • Beaz

Posted March 22, 2011 - 06:49 PM


Im in the same boat 9hrs on my bike and the seal went i called pro circuit
they told me 850 so im putting springs in and doing seals myself for prob 350 all together o and i weigh 215

  • humpness

Posted March 22, 2011 - 07:26 PM


i have done a little bit of looking at the DIY smart suspension. Is it possible for a person with no suspension experience do one of these without a problem?

  • crf450319

Posted March 22, 2011 - 08:48 PM


That depends on your mechanical ability, but I think it's VERY easy to do. Buy a Tusk dual chamber fork cap wrench ($20) and a fork seal driver ($40) and you'll save yourself a bunch of money, and you'll learn at the same time. Watch these videos and see if you think you can do it :

Keep in mind that to replace fork seals you don't have to disassemble the inner cartridge.

Fork cap wrench

Fork seal driver

Fork seal bullet $5.99

  • humpness

Posted March 22, 2011 - 11:20 PM


awesome thanks. As far as that process goes how much more in depth would it be to set up the smartperformance DIY?

how long does it take ya to do a set of fork seals?

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  • grayracer513

Posted March 23, 2011 - 07:32 AM


Modifying the internals of the fork and shock is precision work. It's very definitely what we in the business call an "A" job (on a scale of A-D, where changing the oil and seals is a "B", or even a "C") and requires careful attention to detail and well developed mechanical and manual skills, experience, and good sense. The most critical parts, IMO, are the removal of the peening over the nuts holding the valve assemblies, and the clean up of the valve stem threads for reassembly (metric dies required), but all of it has to be done correctly, torqued correctly, and each detail attended to properly, both for your own personal safety and the mechanical safety of the suspension unit.

Having said that, it isn't all so mysterious and mechanically complicated as you might think, although understanding some about how it works will help. If you are in fact a good mechanic, can read instructions and compare them to the assembly you work on and make sense of them, and are patient, you can do it, and you will probably find yourself thinking, "what was so hard about that?" Asking how long it takes is not a good idea the first time through, though.

Dave at SMART is extremely supportive of his DIY customers, and it's a great way to get top tier suspension without a second mortgage.

  • woods-rider

Posted March 23, 2011 - 07:46 AM


Replacing fork seals is very easy and only takes maybe an hour the first time you do it and after that maybe 15-20 min. Fork seals are pretty cheap also. Save your self time and money and do it your self like others said.

  • humpness

Posted March 23, 2011 - 09:48 AM


thanks fellas

so my checklist to change the seals would be:

seal driver

rod holding tool

FORK SEALS (any particular one?)

oil (not sure of the best)

fork wrench

fork seal bullet

maybe shox sox?

go by manual with oil amount?

Edited by EOYZF, March 23, 2011 - 04:14 PM.

  • grayracer513

Posted March 23, 2011 - 12:38 PM


Curious...why the dust seals?

  • humpness

Posted March 23, 2011 - 04:08 PM


I think I have been saying that all day long. I meant to say fork seals. thanks!

should I get 5W or does it matter what ever riding i do or rider weight?

Edited by EOYZF, March 23, 2011 - 08:55 PM.

  • eazrider

Posted March 24, 2011 - 08:52 AM


For a novice, while it is easy to access the stacks of shims, one should never attempt to modify a shim stack without explicit instructions from someone that knows *** works for your particular riding stye, weight, issue you are having with current valving, etc. For all but a select few suspension tuners, it is very difficult to get the suspension to work how it should , particularly first time. Having said that, if you do attempt to modify your shim stack, you will get very good at assembling and disassembling your suspension, loading it in your truck for a test ride, and then starting all over again...:thumbsup:

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