There's only one Jeep and there's only one Wagoneer

Hey guys, remember this thread? http://www.thumperta...ad.php?t=806532

A little bit of history, if you don't want to read the other thread. 1982 Jeep Wagoneer, 4.2L/258CI L6 Vin:C Carter Carb.
This was my first "car". The only major problem I ever had with it was the mechanical fuel pump stopped working and let me sit, and on another occasion, the ATF cooling lines sprung a tiny leak, which emptied the tranny over about 7 miles, then toasted the tranny. IIRC, this cost me $740 in 1995 dollars, which is probably around two grand now.
Otherwise, it was a good truck.
I started going to school over an hour away and that's when I ended up with a newer (83!) much more fuel efficient car.
It's been sitting for a long time. The last inspection ran out in 1996, and it's been sitting since.

We loaded it.


Then hauled it to the car wash and unloaded it in my driveway.


The first thing I did was to pour Marval Mystery Oil in all the cylinders except for the rear one because I broke my 3/8" ratchet knuckle on a different project and will need to get a new one.
While I did that, my step-son changed the oil and filter.
Then I coated the driveway with ATF. After I did that, I replaced the automatic transmission filter and gasket.

Which now is a good time to ask for opinions on something like the B & M Universal Remote Transmission Filter Kit-$35 and for a recommendation on a drain-plug?

Some interior photos.



The damage to the door panels. I haven't removed the door panels yet to inspect the insides.
This was caused by plugged drains.

When the doors filled, this would spill over into the interior.
As I suspected, the carpet is trash.

So, I ripped it out. And when I say rip, I mean I found a loose edge, grabbed a hold of it, then pulled.


Gotta love that simple wiring harness. Ah, simpler times. This runs the left rear lights and if I'm not mistaken, the fuel sending unit.
Also the left rear window, rear window which can be controlled from the driver's door.
There's a similar bundle of wires on the other side but fewer wires, for the right side windows and right side rear lights.

I think I may have lucked out with the water issue. This is the worst damage I can find.

I know this looks really bad, but I've also pulled all the rusted areas out with tools, so I should be able to cut a hole, perhaps an inch wider than the hole, have a new piece made up (I do not own a shrinker/stretcher) and weld it in place, paint it and move on to the next item. There are a few 1" or smaller holes in flat areas that should be easy to patch.

Back to under the hood.

I had to evict a few unauthorized tenants.
http://www.austinkre...99_crop_640.jpg
I also cleaned out all the bits of insulation that's supposed to be glued under the hood but was torn/fell off from out of the engine compartment.

That's about all the farther I got yesterday afternoon.

The next item on the list is cleaning the carb, pulling the seats to remove the remainder of the carpet and opening the door panels.

My short list is as follows:
1. Make it run
0. MMO in cylinders
a. oil change
b. transmission oil/filter change
c. plug wires/plugs
d. vacuum hoses (any idea on how many miles of hose needed?)
e. carb cleaning
f. radiator flush
g. radiator hoses/coolant
h. belts
i. replace battery
j. new fuel filter

2. Make it safe
a. brakes
b. tires (225/75-15)
c. body
d. lights

3. Functional
a. remove carpet/spray w/ bed liner
b. power inverter??
c. check hitch receiver (??Reese Towpower Adjustable Hitch Bar-$35??)

(list will be continued in later posts)

I'm not looking to restore this completely. I'm looking for a functional tow-rig where we can connect a trailer, load the bikes, throw the gear in the back, strap down the kids and go. Unlike our former tow vehicle, a 1995 grand am, where things had to be carefully packed and some strapped on the trailer just to make it comfortable. It was an OK set up, but that car's been sold and it was getting tired with 234,000 miles on it. Not to mention, the kids are no longer riding peewee bikes, so there's more stress from heavier loads.

Feel free to offer any suggestions. My budget is "minimal", however, I'd love some information on improving fuel economy (perhaps an electric radiator fan?) and inexpensive lift kits. BTW, I liked a lot of the Stacey David "Cheap Jeep" build, if you're familiar with it, that's a direction I'd love to go.

Also, if anyone had one and switched from 15" wheels to 16", what kind of a hit did you take on fuel mileage? A friend of mine who runs a garage has four new 16" tires he bought for a customer who bailed and thus they're sitting on the rack. I'm sure I can get them at invoice or perhaps less, but they won't work too well on 15" rims.

I'm speechless...

Is that good or bad?

Well, last night I was going to drain the gas tank, but I can't seem to figure out how. I also tried siphoning it, but I can't get the hose to make the sharp bend below the filler nozzle.
The tank sounds empty when you bang on it, so I may just forget about that.

Instead, I focused on taking the gigantic dent out of the hood where my brother decided it would be a good step-ladder.
For some reason, the difference doesn't appear to be very much in photos. But in person, there's a stark contrast.
Before:

After:


I also removed the door panels and took a look. I'm guessing the window motors are shot and I won't know till I get a battery, but the inside of the doors look much better than I expected.
In the rear left door, I found this. If anyone has a clue what it is, let me know. It feels like it's silicone.

Smacaroni said:

Well... Looking at it and seeing what it would possibly need to be comfortable and safe for your family, it makes me wonder if you would be better off starting with something that doesn't need as much work.

My brother had one these very same jeeps and it was a good vehicle. But, when its all said and done, and you have it all fixed up, you will have spent a few bucks and will still have what's almost a 30 year old vehicle.

Are you sentimentally attached to this particular Jeep?

Smacaroni said:

I believe that to be one of Pamela Anderson's FIRST implants. If you ebay that it'll fund the whole project.

In all seriousness, you're going to end up spending a LOT more than you expect on a rebuild like this. If you're not prepared to go over budget, might want to roll this one off a cliff and find a more turn key truck.


I know this because I am in the middle of a "resurrection" myself. A 1987 Ford Bronco II that was purchased for $100. I now have WAAAAY more into it than I will ever get out of it but we're not looking to sell it and make money. It's a first car for the girl.

Before:



Its current state:





Fresh engine arrives tomorrow, the entire running gear gone through, all poly bushings on the suspension, steering, sway bars, etc. New shocks, 33x12.50x15 wheels and tires, new exhaust (cat and muffler), new PS pump. Put 6" superlift coils on it, explorer leafs on the rear with 2" shackles and a 3" block

Interior is gutted, dynamatted EVERYWHERE and have a tan eddie bauer interior out of a wreck ready to go in once bodywork is done.

Once its done, it will be basically a new car, and the engine I bought comes with a 100,000 mile warranty. Yes, its more money than it will ever be worth to anyone else, but this one will be in the family a while.

RedHurricane gets it. I'm not planning to sell it and I'm not planning to make any money on it.

mauricedorris said:

Not really, but the price is right. Should be about $70 to transfer/tag. Cost me $58 in gas to haul it home.
I saw a "parts only" FSJ in similar condition for $800. Personally, I think that guy is crazy.

My first priority is to make sure it runs. I'll admit this is the make or break item. I'm not going to dump a grand on a replacement block.
The frame is straight, no rust. I need to pull the wheels and inspect the bearings and brakes.
I've only touched the surface on fluid changes, but these are the ones I feel need to be done before turning the motor over.
Steering needs a damper, but otherwise no play or other damage from sitting.
Transmission was rebuilt at most 10,000 miles ago.
The big hole in the left rear floor is the worst non-cosmetic body damage. As I said in the first post, there are a few holes in the floor that should be easy to patch and there's a eh, palm sized hole in the tail gate.
I have a welder and I'm perfectly comfortable welding body parts together, however, I would never attempt any frame modification/repair.

The year before last, I fixed my daily driver after my other step-son had an accident with it.

The before/after on that one:


BTW, that car is 22 this year, the odometer reads 318K miles, but it actually has 330K on it. Would you believe that repair cost me one weekend and $242? That's not counting freebee parts I've been searching for years that when you figure in their value actually makes it out that I made money, $6.92 per hour. May not be minimum wage, but find me another person who can say they made money fixing their own car. I won't be able to say the same thing about this Jeep. I know that.

Yes, #2 concern besides does it run, is can I make sure it's safe to go rolling down the highway at 70 mph.

The good news, within walking distance from my house (even if it's a long walk) is a Jeep salvage yard where I've confirmed there's at least two FSJs available for parts.

Sounds like a cool project. I had an old 77 F150 (hence he username :) )that I picked up for a few bucks and had the same plans you have. I quickly realized that I did not have the time to complete the project and scrapped the truck. It was in similar condition to yours, body was rough but frame and motor were decent.

Over the weekend, I rebuilt the carb. Installed a fuel filter, replaced the fuel lines and battery.
It's ALIVE!

There's about 10 minutes of video that was cut out between when we first tried it and when it finally stayed running (about a minute and a half between each start), as I tweaked the carb to keep it running.
If you're listening to the loud tapping, this is because I neglected to check the oil level before starting it. (big boo-boo) After the video cuts, I checked the oil level where it was 1.5 quarts low. It sounds a heck of a lot better now. I won't bore you with a video.

The alternator shows good charge, the oil pressure is around 50 PSI.

1. Make it run
c. plug wires/plugs
d. vacuum hoses (will replumb from the book)
e. carb rebuilt
f. radiator flush
g. radiator hoses/coolant
h. belts
i. replace battery
i. new fuel filter
j. radiator cap
k. diff/transfer case oils
l. carb adjustment

2. Make it safe
a. brakes
b. tires (225/75-15)
c. floor pan repair
d. lights
e. seat belts!
f. turn signals (probably the flasher since neither works)

3. Functional
a. remove carpet/spray w/ bed liner
b. power inverter??
c. check hitch receiver (??Reese Towpower Adjustable Hitch Bar-$35??)
d. fix rear window motor issue

4. Form
a. cosmetic body repair
b. paint

5. Misc
a. electric radiator fan

Next up, brakes and drive-line fluids, as well as find out why the rear window doesn't work. All the other windows do which is amazing since they were sitting in water for who knows how long.

Smacaroni said:

:thumbsup:. congrats

wow check out the rust coming out of that exhaust!

steve0xr said:

Rusty farts. I don't think it will do that again unless I let it sit for another decade and a half.

I know it's been a few weeks since I've updated this, but that's just because nothing too exciting has happened.

The rear window didn't work, because the safety switch that prevents one from rolling the window "up" when the tailgate is down (and thus surely breaking the glass) was bad. Contrary to all the accounts I've read online, the safety switch can still be the problem if the window is up.
Also, contrary to the online docs, the brown wire and the tan wire are involved in both up and down, the docs say one is up and one is down. I finally made progress when I said "it doesn't make any sense that AMC would use a motor with two coils, it just doubles weight and cost and AMC wouldn't do anything to double the cost".
So, I connected pos. to one and neg to the other and the motor moved the window down 1/2" on one side and 1/4" on the other.
So, I rolled it up. Then down, then up, then down.
It gradually moved to 5/16" on one side and 3/8" on the other.

So, I shorted the switch, which now allowed one to control the window via the dash switch.
Then, I put my kid at the helm, and stuck my fingers in the gap of window. I told him "push down" and I pushed down on the window. It moved 1" evenly. So I took my fingers out and told him to roll it up.
This continued for about five minutes till the window was the whole way down and would roll all the way up and down on it's own.

At this point, I tried to open the tail gate. One side opened, the other side was stuck fast. :bonk: Being unable to see how the latch works, I sprayed everything with penetrating lube, closed the window and called it a day.

The following day, tried again. This time, I could see that the latch mechanism should move up and it wasn't. I fished in a coat hanger and pulled as hard as I could. I tried with my kid squeezing the latch. Nothing.
Sprayed it again, removed the interior "bed" carpet - mostly with a vacuum and called it a day.

The following day, I got ambitious and took the tail gate off the hinges. This is only partially effective, since the latches hold the tail gate down and the hinges hold it up. But after lots of wiggling, the door did come off. Now, we could see that latch was stuck. We re-connected the tail gate to the hinges. The latch after a little bit of work with a wrench decided to behave. Instead of feeling like it weighs 4,000lbs, the tail gate feels like it weighs about 50. I think it's actually around 125, but the springs help it move up.
You don't want to get your fingers in the window mechanism:

This is normally under a cover.

So next up was bleeding the brakes. I sucked all the old coffee colored brake fluid

out with a Mit-y-vac, then scrubbed it with paper towels

and refilled with new DOT3/4. Starting at the right rear wheel, I put an 8mm wrench on the bleeder nipple and turned the hex end totally round in one quarter twist.

Then I put vice-grips on it, made it completely round. I cranked 'em tighter and clamped again, now it turned out sort of egg-shaped.
At this point, I decided that it would be best to try this in a vice.
I removed the wheel cylinder and decided I should try the other one while I was at it. Using a 5/16" socket (like I should have the first time), I completely snapped the bleeder nipple off.
At this point, I decided that I was better off replacing them both. So I hit the auto parts store, for $20 I was on my way with two wheel cylinders.
From left to right, left (snapped), right (seized) and new.


After bleeding them, moved on to the right front. Before I even got to the brakes, I snapped a lug stud clean off.

Also, I found the caliper is stuck real good. I removed the caliper for the core and dismantled the spindle (not sure if it's called that on 4WD, but you know what I mean). Then, I headed to the auto parts store again. Another $20 for a caliper and wheel stud and I was on my way. Thankfully, I've done a 4WD rotor job in the past, and what I learned from that was make sure everything goes back in the same direction it came out. Also, grease the living daylights out of the hub and anything under the cover. Some AMC weirdness, I couldn't find a wrench that fit the bleeder nipples. So, I used a 13/32 socket (to prevent the possibility of stripping again). As it turns out, both the new one and the old one were 10 mm!
The left front was uneventful.

It then came time to change the differential oil. Removing the cover was no big deal. The fluid first started draining like honey, then became darker, then looking like used motor oil and finally, finishing like gritty crude. I removed the cover to find that it uses a gasket, not RTV.

Then I scraped the remaining crud out with paper towels. Everything looks good.
Yet another trip to the auto parts store, for $15 worth of gaskets.

Last up, was the transfer case, which uses a 30 mm plug. Maybe I can't just keep all my SAE wrenches and sockets in the Jeep, like I thought.
Of course, I only have a deep socket for drive axles on FWD Japanese cars, it doesn't fit with a ratchet in the space available. But it does fit with a T-bar/breaker bar. Thankfully, there's lots of space under this without putting it on jack stand.

BTW, I've vowed I'm never getting under this unless it's perfectly level AND there's all four wheels on the axles. The reason? The bugger fell off the jack stand while jacking it up using the high lift (old school) jack, TWICE!
This used to be parallel with the edge of my driveway.
Since this is too heavy for my old floor jack, I'm going to have to get a truck floor jack some time in the future. But I think I'm done with anything that requires taking the wheels off, so I'll worry about that later.

Updated list:
1. Make it run
c. plug wires/plugs
d. vacuum hoses (will replumb from the book)
f. radiator flush
g. radiator hoses/coolant
h. belts
k. radiator cap
l. diff/transfer case oils
m. carb adjustment
n. fuel pump
o. "nutter bypass"

2. Make it safe
a. brakes
b. tires (225/75-15)
c. floor pan repair
d. lights
e. seat belts!
f. turn signals (probably the flasher since neither works)

3. Functional
a. remove carpet/spray w/ bed liner
b. power inverter??
c. check hitch receiver (??Reese Towpower Adjustable Hitch Bar-$35??)
d. fix rear window motor issue

4. Form
a. cosmetic body repair
b. paint

5. Misc
a. electric radiator fan

Next up, remove the front seats to get the remaining carpet out, then floor pan and body work. Tonight, I'm gonna take her for a drive through the neighborhood to see if there's any remaining drive train issues.

Update again. Took it for a "drive" last night around the block. This was not without excitement, because I couldn't get the bugger started! Seemed like it wasn't getting fuel, it wouldn't even sputter. I remembered that Jeekinz advised me to replace the fuel pump in the previous thread. So, @ $25, I bought a new one. Installed it using clear fuel line and watched it pump fuel in. Nothing. After lots of head scratching, I said "try again tomorrow". I started cleaning up. During the process of cranking it, my kid decided to investigate the horn. It didn't work. (no surprise). I'm in the back yard putting my tools in the shed when I hear the horn blaring. I run out front. No one's in the car. No one's around it. The horn's blaring though. So I start looking for a fuse to pull.
Eventually, we disconnect the battery and stop the horn. That's when it occurs to me, that maybe I didn't set the choke properly, since it's nearly 80 degrees and the last time we started it it was 50, if the choke was on, it would be insanely rich. So I pop open the air filter cover and press on the choke. It's spring-loaded which isn't right. I then try to reset the choke (still not sure if it's right), so it's off. Sure enough, it runs.
So I took it around the block. The tires are severely flat spotted. The speedo is jumpy (might need a cable, need lubed or might just need to wear in again) and I'm not sure if the temperature gauge works or not. Other than needing the carb adjusted (will do after re plumbing the vacuum lines), it seems OK. Brakes feel good considering rust on the rotors, about what I expected.

I love these build threads:thumbsup: Keep us posted Smac.

NEdge, glad you're enjoying it. All in all, I am too.

So the first nut I tried to remove which holds the seats to the body stripped the corners off.
I tried a few solutions to remove it including the trusty but unfriendly Vise Grips, a pipe-wrench, welding a handle on to it (too little material left on the nut and I didn't want to damage the stud threads, just in case these studs are welded in), what finally worked was using a dremel to weaken the nut followed by a chisel to fracture it.
May contain NSFW language.

About 6:20 you'll see it come off. If you're wondering what kind of a screwball I am to record this stuff, there's two reasons. The first reason was because I thought I might end up setting it on fire and who doesn't enjoy seeing damage like that?
The second is I'm trying to figure out a video editing program, and to do that, I need material. Feel free to critique the editing.


There was minimal collateral damage, but you can still screw one of the other nuts all the way down, so it would be salvageable if needed.


The remaining hardware I removed with "the poor man's impact wrench", using the open end of a combination wrench and several sharp blows from a hammer. All but one of the remaining studs came out connected to the nut. Wish I had known that before I went to monumental efforts to remove the nut on the first one.

I'm not sure, even after taking all the studs out, if this is a metric or standard, but I removed the remaining hardware with a 14mm wrench because the 9/16" was sloppy. Also, the threads work just as well with a 10mmX1.5 pitch nut as they do with a 3/8-16. They'll be replaced with 3/8-16 bolts.

After I set the passenger's seat down, I looked at the floor and exclaimed "what's that?"

Well, I know what it is. I don't even have to count 'em. That's $10 worth of half-dollars. I don't know when the last time I saw a roll of half-dollars, but that's a roll. I quickly look through the coins. All are minted after 1965 and 1993 or before. I wonder if these belonged to the previous owner as they were all minted before I could drive. A few bicentennial pieces too. Too bad they weren't silver (only 1964).
Yeah, I'm a really bad numismatist, when I hear a silver coin in change from a cashier, I hoard the coins. One of these days I may organize my several pound collection of old coins. Which is where this memento is going too.

The cassette tape is nothing I'd be interested in and surprisingly, the electrical tape was still good, pliable and sticky. I threw it in the tool box. The little leather case revealed something else interesting, no money, but something of value none the less.

I have no idea what the bottom two keys are, but the top one fits the ignition. Which is kinda funny cause I would like another set of keys for this beast. Now I just need to have door keys made.

After the seats came out, I removed the arm-rest/bitch seat.
RATS!

Well, probably mice, I grew up on a farm and rats are more destructive. Also, the hole in the headliner (not yet addressed) is a lot smaller than a rat would make.

So the the arm rest/bitch seat was peeled off the carpet and this is what's left:

Which I rolled up and tossed.

My solution to removing the studs.

Just screw two nuts on the stud, then cinch the two tightly against each other. Preferably using the lower one to turn the stud out.

Next, I started addressing the rust in the floor pan. I'm not gonna bore you with details (there's enough details in this thread to put most people to sleep), but starting with a spot like this:

I'd scrub it with a wire brush and vacuum up what ever came off.


I'll be hitting this later with power tools, but it gives me an idea as to how bad the damage is if it comes off by hand.

Just to highlight some more AMC weirdness, they nailed the carpet down.
I've pulled at least a half dozen of these out of the floor.

Custom made, one Jeep FSJ for a very, very tall person.
http://www.austinkre...02_0941_640.JPG

Next update will be body work, about as exciting as watching paint dry, I hope.

Dude, I am a little short on deoderant, you have some that I can borrow???

I'll do you one better, you can keep it. The way the seat base is designed, I have no idea how that could have gotten in there either, at least the roll of coins you could say rolled under the seat.

Smacaroni said:

Can't ever have enough details :thumbsup:

Weather's been crappy this past week, so I can't say I got much of anything done.


Yesterday, I removed the roof rack and most of the trim on the windows (except the door trim).

then went to town with a stripping wheel.

As we worked, it seemed like it might rain any minute, so when we got to this point, we decided to call it quits, covered it with a large sheet of plastic. Ah, lovely spring weather we have up here.

Some days you're the bat, some days you're the ball.

Wednesday, I decided to finish the rust removal on the roof. I should have left it all bundled up like I had it, but no....


I really want to get this painted so that I know the rust won't get any worse. However before I can do that, I need to get all the rust off. Which means it's time for my secret weapon in the rust battle.

What is it? I call it "Preparation R". An industrial chemical which is not intended to be used by guys like me to etch, seal, convert or what ever the correct term is for the reaction. I'm willing to share just about everything, but this is one of those things that I feel is just a little bit too dangerous to be disseminated on the internet without proper supervision or at least oral instruction as to it's use. As you can see, I'm pulling out personal protective equipment. I'd much rather have more serious PPE, like Tyvek suit and a real respirator. But I don't want to freak my neighbors out either.
The end result is totally harmless to people, pets, the environment. If you really want to ask someone who would be qualified to instruct you in it's use, talk to a chemist. Or maybe a gunsmith. I think this chemical is used in gun smithing to add an artificial patina to metal.
It's also a lot cheaper than "Rust Reformer" and other commercial products.

I've marked the bottle with a skull and crossbones since my gf was going to squirt my step-son thinking it was water.

This little bottle should be enough to do all the rust on the whole jeep provided you scrub it off with sand paper and wire wheels first. - It's not magic, none of the products on the market are magic.

Oh, while preparation R removes rust, I think it would also remove hemorrhoids and I've found out it removes calluses too.

I must have poked a hole in my glove.

Here it is in action... ooh, bubbles...

It also FUBARs paint. The paint seems to be intact, but the color is completely bleached. It also reacts with dyes in clothing if it doesn't eat holes in the cloth.

Now, you sit back and admire your handiwork. It's not magic, it takes a little while. Well, don't cha know, while I was waiting if it didn't decide to rain. And not just a little rain either, no a monsoon!
I throw the plastic sheet over the roof and try in vain to keep it in place.

After about five minutes, I'm completely soaked and the plastic is on, but the rear window is jammed and it stops raining.

I call it a night, and it poured overnight too - that I was expecting.
I remove the plastic sheet the following day.

Oh, man, I could cry.

I'm probably going to regret this, but I just went at the flash rust with a wire wheel. Primered it and went to work on the rear window.

Now that the rust has been removed again... I found a few pea sized holes in the rounded area above the drip-rails. These are too small to worry about cutting out and welding a new piece in and they're also in a bad spot to do this since the margin runs right along the drip-rail.
No worries! Bondo-glass to the rescue.
This stuff is a little harder and supposed to be stronger than regular bondo and considering the size holes that need to be filled, it should work perfect with two apply-wait-sand applications or less. I open up the top of my brand new can of Bondo-glass... there's no hardener tube! Some SOB stole it before I bought it! I don't have the receipt either! Arrgh!
Lucky for me, according to 3M's site, the same tube of "red cream hardener" that is used for regular bondo also works with Bondo-glass. Woo hoo! Yay me!
One down side I've found with bondo-glass, unlike regular bondo, the mixed bondo-glass/hardener does not color match the spreader, so it's hard to tell if it's the right proportions or not.

When I was standing on the tailgate, I heard something pop. But it wasn't a broken glass noise, so I wasn't too concerned.
See that little post sticking out? Yeah, that belongs under the window.

Some wiggling and fidgeting and prying got it back where it belongs.

Friday, I hit it with rattle can paint. I'm planning to get this to a real painter in the future, but my rattle can repair on my daily driver has been holding up just fine for two years and the whole point of this is to do it cheap.

Reinstall the roof rack. Chrome trim will be reinstalled later.

First, I need to get new rack mounting hardware. Some screws were missing and most were beyond reuse if they did come out with a screw driver. What do you know? It's not 8-32 like you'd expect. No, it's 4X0.70 which means instead of buying 20 for $1 with nuts that I could use later, no I gotta spend $4 on 12 of them.
I considered re-tapping the holes, but for the amount of time involved, I'm just going to bite the bullet.

Yes, it is raining again, thanks for asking.

While we were prepping the roof, my kid leaned on the hood and dished it again. So this time I fixed it good. It only took 20 minutes by myself and I'm really happy about that.

Just needs some alignment tweaking which working with a 50 pound awkward hunk of steel at arms length, I'll accept close enough for today.
Oh, and it only cost me twenty bones - delivered! It does have one flaw. The Jeep it came off of was used for plowing, I'm not sure if that's why there's a tiny section near the hood catch release is cut or not. But you'd have to know where to look to find it. It also makes it easier to get my German sausage fingers in the slot, so I'm not complaining.

While I had the hood off, I pulled the fresh-air grill.

Yup, there's something growing in it.
I'm going to vacuum that out this week and I've sent the grill off to be sand blasted cause it'll take me hours to clean it up before I can spray it with Preparation R and it's too big to soak. Well, I guess I could make a container big enough to soak it.
http://www.austinkre..._rotate_640.JPG

This week, I would like to be the dog and not the hydrant.

Looking good, I am really curious of how well it will ride and how well its going to hold up after you get it back on the road...