Question re: dipstick reading/oil capacity 07yz450f


14 replies to this topic
  • Alzy

Posted March 13, 2011 - 09:51 PM

#1

I recently purchased this bike and I am confused by the dipstick reading. I replaced the oil and filter and placed the specified amount of oil in the bike. Started it, warmed it up a little and checked the dipstick. The oil is no where near where it is supposed to be on the dipstick, but the oil comes out of the check bolt when I remove it. ???????? I checked, rechecked and checked again - same outcome.

  • grayracer513

Posted March 14, 2011 - 06:01 AM

#2

  • You should be draining from two points and changing the filter, then adding back 1 liter of oil.
  • You should then be starting the engine, running it for about one minute, shutting down, and then checking the dip stick.
  • When you speak of a check bolt, are you removing the bolt on the lower left near the shifter with the engine off, or the one on the head with the engine running?
  • If you loosen the dip stick with the engine running, does oil leak out around it?


  • Alzy

Posted March 14, 2011 - 06:52 AM

#3

The check bolt by the shifter. What you described is exactly what I did. I did not try to loosen the dip stick when engine is running.

  • grayracer513

Posted March 14, 2011 - 10:12 AM

#4

Let's try that then. With the engine running, loosen the dip stick some and see if oil come out around it (it should). If it doesn't, remove it entirely and see if you get a strong pulse of air like from the crankcase.

Then, with the engine running, loosen the oil pressure check bolt on the head to see that oil is being delivered to the top end.

Then we'll go from there.

  • Alzy

Posted March 14, 2011 - 08:00 PM

#5

I did the dipstick test you suggested and the oil spurted out the threads as I loosened it, phew! Actually, the oil reading seemed to go up at little since I did this. The bike has not been truly warmed up since I put in in 1200ml of oil, perhaps it needs to go for a good snap before it gives a true reading. One more thing I should add, there is an aftermarket clutch cover on the bike, could that interfere with the dipstick reading due to a slightly larger/different size?

I have one more question, I looked into the rad and was expecting to see the green antifreeze coolant; instead there is a crystal clear fluid. Is there an available MX antifreeze that is clear or did the last owner fill it with distilled water? If so, I know what I'll be doing next! Thanks for your help thus far grayracer513.

  • step655

Posted March 14, 2011 - 08:44 PM

#6

evens coolant is clear
http://www.evanscooling.com/coolants/

good luck

  • matt4x4

Posted March 15, 2011 - 04:34 AM

#7

taste it and see....if it's water it should have minimal or no taste depending on residual left in there prior to filling with water.... or you could just test it.
First thing I do on any used bike I buy is change the fluids, that way I KNOW what's in there, always assume the worst on any used bike....

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • grayracer513

Posted March 15, 2011 - 07:43 AM

#8

The clutch cover has nothing to do with the reading on the dipstick because the crankcase itself is purged of oil and it is pumped to the "tank" section in the front of the engine.

  • Oil out the dip stick is good, because it shows that your return pump is working. Now, you should remove the hose that connects the right crankcase cover to the oil tank, remove the dip stick, and see if you can freely move air both into the tank and into the crankcase. That hose allows the oil coming into the tank from the return pump to displace air into the crankcase, and if it's plugged, it can cause your problem.
  • 1.2L of oil is too much. This is probably not related to your dipstick reading in any way, but it's an overfill anyway, and there's no room for it in your engine. If you change the oil and filter, it takes 1L exactly. If you change the oil only, it takes a quart. 1.2L is the total amount you need to fill a dry engine after a rebuild. Review the manual.
It should only take one or two minutes to purge the fill oil out of the crankcase into the tank, but it can take longer. One thing that has come up is that people with this problem have discovered holes in the wall of the oil tank in the area in front of and below the balancer shaft, mostly on the left side. One test for that would be to get some cheap oil and pour it directly into the tank, rather than the crankcase where the filler is. The tank should hold cold oil at a level above the dipstick mark for at least an hour.

  • mattman88

Posted April 11, 2011 - 07:14 AM

#9

i hate to be a pain in the ass, but i have read my manual and some of the threads in this forum but i am still a bit confused as to which two bolts i am pulling to allow the oil to drain. would it be possible for someone to post pics of these two bolts and their location so that i dont screw up.

  • grayracer513

Posted April 11, 2011 - 07:31 AM

#10

The answer is both.

I'll assume you have an '06-'09:

Looking at page 3-15, you need to loosen the dip stick, then drain from the bolt under the ignition cover on the left side (3), then drain form the bolt behind the frame rail, below the foot peg on the right side (5). If you drain both points and fill with the correct amount, you don't need to ever disturb the oil level check bolt.

http://www.thumperta...ad.php?t=852961

The "drain bolt" on the oil filter cover is a source of trouble:

http://www.thumperta...ad.php?t=575367

Do this simple modification to prevent it from ever bothering you again:

http://www.thumperta...ad.php?t=634724

  • mattman88

Posted April 11, 2011 - 09:53 AM

#11

Will i have to take off the "drain bolt" on the oil filter cover if I am changing the oil filter though?

  • grayracer513

Posted April 11, 2011 - 02:38 PM

#12

Yes. It's one of the three bolts that holds the cover, and because of the way the configured it, metal debris settles on the bolt threads and grinds on them as you remove it. Read the threads and do the mod, or at least follow some of the precautions on the first link.

  • mattman88

Posted April 13, 2011 - 07:37 AM

#13

thanks for the assistance

  • ulumanati

Posted May 12, 2011 - 09:58 PM

#14

I just did an oil change and levels were fine. I followed manual and per instructions started bike, and then loosened the oil pressure check bolt that's higher up on the engine, only difference is as soon as mine was loose, oil started seeping out, as opposed to the whole "spurting after a minute", is this normal? Should I also have loosened the dipstick to check if it spurts out the bottom also, or is the top check sufficient?

  • grayracer513

Posted May 13, 2011 - 07:21 AM

#15

It's normal. The sooner you see oil at the plug, the healthier it is. The "after a moment" thing refers to the fact that there may be a lag between startup and oil pressure. Oil must first be moved from the sump where you poured it to the "tank" where the feed pump can get at it, and then the oil filter cavity needs to be filled.

Loosening the dip stick isn't necessary as a check unless the oil pressure check at the head fails.





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