My friends 530 recently developed the same problem with the E-starter...would turn the engine over ok but wouldn't start, it would start just fine with the kick starter. He ordered the parts (gaskets etc) and we decided to take pictures this time so people could see what's involved if they are having the same issue. Now that we tightened the limiter on this bike the E-starter is working like new again!
Tools that you will need on hand:
*Torque wrench in In/lbs (for the smaller bolts) and ft/lbs
*Clutch basket Holder Tool - Like this one: CLICK HERE NOTE: This tool works but not correctly on our baskets. You have to use the tool on the inside of the basket to make it work.
*Misc hand tools. Wrenches, Sockets, Breaker bar.
*Impact Gun is nice to remove the Clutch Basket Nut but not a necessity, you can use the Clutch Basket Tool and a Breaker Bar as well.
Supplies to have on hand (08 530EXC Referenced on Part#'s):
*CLUTCH COVER GASKET: KTM Part# 78030025000
*RETAINING PLATE: KTM Part# 77332018000 (Lock Tab For Clutch Basket Nut) Note: It can be re-used but it's cheap to replace and you don't have to worry about it.
*HEXAGON NUT DIN0936-M18X1.5 R.: KTM Part# 0936181505 (Clutch Basket Nut..manual says to replace, a lot of people re-use the old one)
*Your favorite oil to re-fill the transmission with
*Your favorite coolant to re-fill the cooling system
*Shop Manual. Nice to verify you have everything in the right spot and order upon re-assembly. If you don't have a manual you can use the parts diagrams as reference...example KTM Cycle Hutt Parts FicheFinder: CLICK HERE
Handy Torque Values:
"Screw, Torque Limiter" - M6, 7.38 ft/lbs Loctite 243
"Nut, Inner Clutch Hub" - M18x1.5, 59.01 ft/lbs
"Screw, Clutch Spring" - M6, 7.38 ft/lbs
"Screw, Clutch Cover" - M6x25, 7.38 ft/lbs
"Screw, Clutch Cover" - M6x30, 7.38 ft/lbs
"Screw, Kickstarter" - M8, 18.44 ft/lbs Loctite 243
Start by draining the coolant and the transmission oil. Next let's remove the clutch.
Here's a shot of the Retaining Plate "Yellow Arrow" and clutch basket nut that lives under the clutch pack. Bend down the ears on the plate till they are flat so you can remove the nut. If you don't have a impact gun you will have to use the clutch basket took to hold the basket while you use a breaker bar to remove the nut. The Tusk tool won't work on the outer part of the basket but will work if you place the tool on the inside of the basket at the Red Arrows.
Next remove the kick start lever, loosen the hose clamp on the water pump hose connection, and remove the rear brake lever.
Now remove the clutch cover. Here's a shot of the inside of the cover. You can see the water pump drive gear in this shot. Note: When re-installing the cover don't force it. The plastic water pump drive gear has to line up and mesh with the other drive gears inside the case for the cover to go completely on. If the cover isn't wanting to slide on easily reach behind the cover and turn the water pump drive gear slightly, then try to slide the cover on again. Repeat this until the gears line up and the cover slides on smoothly.
Almost to the Torque Limiter. Now just slide the clutch basket off and place it to the side. Be careful to keep track of the order of washers etc as the parts come off.
Ok...with the clutch basket out of the way we can now see the offending Torque Limiter. Remove the bolt holding the limiter in place and remove the limter. Note: There is a thin shim behind the limiter, keep track of it as you remove the limiter and make sure it gets re-installed during re-assembly.
Removing the Torque Limiter. The yellow arrow is where the thin shim goes.
A side shot of the Torque Limiter. I've added the numbers 1 & 2 to help explain the tightening process. KTM says the Limiter is "Non-Adjustable" and is pre-set at the factory, if the Limiter is slipping just replace it at $130 a pop. The Limiter is installed in the bike so if the bike backfires it will slip and prevent damage to the starter and the engine case....knowing this we now have to decide how much we want to tighten the limiter? From what I've read people have just snugged them down until they are fairly tight and called it good....this is the method I used on my 530 and it's worked great for me. You can decide how tight you would like to tighten yours, just need it tight enough where it will transfer power to the engine with out slipping.
You will see three holes in the front of the Limiter "Area 2 in the picture above", you can build a spanner wrench that fits these holes or use the channel locks method to tighten the limiter. Place a piece of leather around the teeth "Area 1 in the picture above" and clamp "1" lightly in a vice. Then use the channel locks to tighten "2" a 1/8 or 1/4 turn. I normally would take the time to build a correct spanner wrench but nothing touches area "2" once the Limiter is re-installed so any teeth marks from the channel locks won't hurt anything.
That's it! Now just re-assemble everything, re-fill the oil, re-fill the coolant and enjoy having your E-start back again.
Hope this helps.
Edited by Hodakaguy, March 12, 2011 - 12:25 AM.