Hydro clutch or auto clutch?

12 replies to this topic
  • dmk75

Posted February 26, 2011 - 04:33 AM


Don't know if its age or wear and tear on this body but after a few pretty nasty trails at the end of last years riding season my clutch forearm was struggling.

I've been looking at some auto clutches and would want one that still utlizes the clutch (rekluse Z-start pro). There is a good deal on ebay for just the z-start but I still want the clutch option.

Now the other I'm looking at and is pretty economical is a hydro clutch. you can usually pick one up for about $200. A hydro clutch would significantly reduce the clutch pull thus less load on my forearm.

I would like to have some opinions from you guys.

  • L. Euler

Posted February 26, 2011 - 05:18 AM


I installed a new clutch cable and a Works Connection clutch perch with ball bearing pivot. This change made a noticeable difference in clutch pull. Note that the Works Connection perch requires a YZ cable since it does not accommodate the clutch switch in the estart circuit.

I also have a KTM 450 XCW with a hydraulic clutch. The hydro clutch is definately easier to pull, but I'm not sure if it is due solely to the hydro or if the clutch springs in the KTM have a lower spring rate.

My experience has been that the hydro give a longer endurance, but eventually the result is the same: it wears out the forearm.

I think that if I rode tight track for a living, so to speak, I would look at an auto clutch. Otherwise, hydro is a nice alternative.


Posted February 26, 2011 - 07:36 AM


Not sure what bike we're talking about but I put a Magura clutch on my WR426 and it did not offer any appreciable reduction in pull. An autoclutch would probably be your best bet.

  • William1

Posted February 26, 2011 - 07:57 AM


+2 on PD's comment. The ratio does not change and therefore the effort cannot change. The difference with a hydaulic unit over a clutch is as a cable wears and gets dirty, the drag increases. This never happens with a hydraulic on. Als, you never need to adjust a hydraulic unit once installed where as with a cable, someimes you have to adjust it when the bike gets hot due to clutch pack swell then again when the bike is cold.With either unit, once the lever pivot point wears, effort goes up significantly. A ball bearing here can be a real blessing.

  • dmk75

Posted February 26, 2011 - 09:39 AM


The bike is an 03 wr450.

Auto clutch is nice but I'm going to pay significantly more for it than a hydralic clutch.

  • William1

Posted February 26, 2011 - 05:13 PM


Auto clutch and a hydraulic actuator are not at all comparable.

If you left hand cannot deal with a regular clutch, either something is wrong with your hand, you need a new cable/lever assy or your gearing is too tall and it requires you to operate the clutch too much.

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  • X-Racer

Posted February 27, 2011 - 03:09 PM


dmk: Maybe age/wear and riding terrain and style change due to both can be an influence. ...but something I see a number of riders not pay attention to and may be worth a try perhaps is lever angle.

I try to maintain a straight line down your arm while in a standing position. Bar height also influences this obviously.

In this fashion, the flexor muscles (curling motion) in your arm are used more than your extensors (IOW you never bend your hand backwards from being planar (straight) with your arm).

Another factor can also be bar width. Bar width has a direct influence on the angles of your wrists and therefore your arm position and muscle use.

I cut my stock CRF bars down about 1/2". It's just more comfortable to me. I also seem to realize less shoulder fatigue (aside from age, after having broken both clavicles twice I experience a lot of shoulder fatigue).

Obviously starting with properly working equipment is a must have to begin with.

  • byggd

Posted February 28, 2011 - 05:22 AM


My bike has the Rekluse with perch adjuster. It gives me auto clutch with the option to over ride when needed.

  • dmk75

Posted February 28, 2011 - 11:49 AM


Its only at the end of the odd intense ride over very nasty terrain that this happens to me. Could be age, could be abuse and not quiting when its time to quit.

My cable is fine, I do need a new perch and lever though as it now has too much slop.

Perhaps a higher end assembly like an ASV or works connection would do the trick also. There is a hydro clutch setup on ebay for about $210usd so thats why I was asking.

Currently still in sledding season here so I still have a little time to get the bike ready for spring.

  • warrens73

Posted February 28, 2011 - 05:43 PM


I installed a Revloc dyna-ring on my 08 WR450. It works great and has 100% clutch over-ride if you want it. Great price too.
Here's the link.

  • strtdsmallproject

Posted March 02, 2011 - 07:02 AM


I vote rekluse also. I love it and its the best mod so far for endurance rideing. The clutch override is a great mod also.

  • chiendesbois

Posted April 24, 2011 - 01:20 PM


just installed the magura "jack" hydraulic clutch on my wr450 2004.... very disappointed, after shipping and going through customs, it cost me 260$ in all.
My oem perch and cable were very used.... so the difference between that and the magura is noticeable, but compared with a new oem kit, there'S really not much difference. I'll try to see what I can do with the clutch springs... I welcome any suggestions/comments.

  • MANIAC998

Posted April 24, 2011 - 07:26 PM


I agree with the others. I don't think a Hydraulic clutch is going to make much difference in clutch pull at all. My Rekluse on the other hand is so easy to pull in you can easily do it with your pinky finger! And better yet, you hardly ever have too!!! Maniac


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