My New WR450F 2011!!!!!!!


44 replies to this topic
  • johnnysneds

Posted March 31, 2011 - 07:13 PM

#21

There is a Yamaha dealer but its mainly scooters. There is a shop with some big bikes, R1's Fazers etc. They probably wont touch a bike thats a grey import. Official dirt bikes are few and far between in Thailand. The Kawasaki KLX250S (which I have) is the only one available direct from a major dealer. KTM have a small presence also.
I'd rather sort it all out myself anyway.

Here's some photos of what ive been up to over the past week:

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So im off to try and figure out whats going on with the clutch today.......

  • johnnysneds

Posted March 31, 2011 - 07:43 PM

#22

Heres a quick video of the excessive play side to side from the clutch linkage. Definitely looks like something is not engaged, missing or broken internally.



  • brentn

Posted March 31, 2011 - 08:07 PM

#23

Your looking at what you think is a problem in which it is not.

The clutch only works properly when it is moving (engine running).
Facts;

-You will not be able to properly dis-engage the clutch with the engine off and the bike in any gear. There will be significant drag, or there will be none with 100% engagement to the transmission to the crank. This is because the clutch plates that connect the clutch inner hub (tranny) to the clutch outer basket (engine crank) cannot seperate properly. They cannot do this because the clutch is not spinning, loosening up the plates when you pull in the lever (dis-engage the clutch) and even though the pressure plate is fully retracted, the plates are still bound.

Your clutch play in the lever should be 1-2mm. It is apparent in your video that this is not the case as the lever on the engine has significant slack, too much in other words. Tighten the clutch perch until there is only 1mm of play in the lever to the perch, this will tighten up the loose arm, allowing you to fully dis-engage the clutch when you pull in the lever. The way you have it set now the clutch will only partially dis-engage and the plates will still bind and rub, this will burn out your clutch and your oil quickly on rides. This is exactly the same if you have too much tension in the clutch lever, and there is no slack.

The play in the clutch linkage is just the space inbetween the clutch arm cam, and the push rod, there is nothing to be alarmed about.


Now, can you do a favor for me?

I REALLY really want to see how far back your headlight goes into the triple clamp inbetween the forks.
What I want to know, is if the headlight recesses inbetween the forks slightly, or if it is flat and there is no protruding inbetween your forks.

I am trying to see if a WR headlight will fit onto my bike, but my ECU is right by the VIN and a light with any kind of recession inbetween the forks, will not work. It must be flat, like the number plate and of course can protrude outwards, just not in-wards.

  • johnnysneds

Posted March 31, 2011 - 10:55 PM

#24

Ok thanks for the informative feedback. I understand what you are saying. The play you see in the last video is with the clutch cable removed. I would have thought the lever would have stopped 90deg to the bike a per the photo below, however the second photo shows how far the lever rotates past the longitudinal axis. So it looks like im loosing some travel to play. Im talking about the play in the clutch arm cam, ball bearing and push rod as you rightly stated.

Where I think the lever position should be after the play is taken up through the internal push rod/cam. So from this photo below I have approx. 15 degrees rotation either side of the lever position you see.
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Where my lever is positioned after the play is taken up (without any tension being applied).
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I also have had the handle bar lever (clutch perch) adjusted correctly to give 1mm of play, this takes up all the play also at the lever (engine side) without any tension being applied, everything looks and feels nice apart from the angle of the lever above and when its operated it doesn't seem to disengage properly.
Now you mentioned that the clutch will only disengage properly when its spinning, which is fair enough I understand that because of the rotation the plates can slide apart more easily. Previously when i picked up the bike if you pulled the clutch in when in gear and push the bike the back wheel would just drag across the ground. Are you saying this is normal? I have other bikes which do not do this, none of them, are you saying this is specific to WR's?
When riding the bike the gear changes appear ok , no problems there, but as I stated before it is near impossible to select neutral with the engine running and unless it needs running in for some time to loosen things off I just dont think this is correct. Forgive me if I sound a little naive its only my second dirt bike and still on the learning curve.
Its all as if the small ball bearing which is located inside the first push rod is missing, but it isn't. Everything else looks good inside, nothing missing. So ill re-assemble it again and set the adjustment back up and see what it looks like.

Here's the photos you requested:

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  • 04WR450F

Posted April 01, 2011 - 07:58 PM

#25

Are you insane? Just kidding. Holy cow you took that thing apart!

That VIN concerns me a little. The 10th digit (or letter since 2010) is the character that designates the Model Year. Between 2001 and 2010 the character was a number. A 1 indicated a 2001 and a 2 a 2002 and so on. In 2010 it went back to letters. An "A" is a 2010 and a "B" is a 2011. That's the way it is for cars and I would have to think it would be the same for new dirt bikes. It's that way on all our dirt bikes.

I don't mean to alarm you, but I'm just curious as to why it's a 0 or O.

Awesome bike by the way. I wish it was mine.


YamaLink, that's an '05.

  • johnnysneds

Posted April 05, 2011 - 06:12 AM

#26

Today, finally got a chance to put all the fluids back into the bike and give it a run.
Started after around ten seconds of kicking over.
Could I get some feedback on the temperatures im seeing from the Vapor. I ran the bike for a total of ten minutes. When the temp reached 115C I operated the pull fan mounted on the rhs rad. The temp continued to climb to 130C where I switched it off. As mentioned it took around ten minutes to reach this. The ambient air temp from the Vapor was reading 42C (thailand beginning of hot season). I have the coolant system filled with Motul's Motocool Expert pre-mixed (provides protection up to 133C).
I will be setting the warning LED's to 110C (Amber and operate fan) 120 (Red - switch off) are these fair number. I haven't tried it on the road yet to compare temperatures, couple of days away.

  • 1trackmind

Posted April 05, 2011 - 10:41 AM

#27

110 C = 230 F Warning
120 C = 248 F Fan start.
That seems a little on the warm side to me. I would probably set the "fan start" a little lower, around the 112-114 C (233-237 F) range. I would rather have it running than overheat my bike.

  • johnnysneds

Posted April 05, 2011 - 11:03 AM

#28

110 C = 230 F Warning
120 C = 248 F Fan start.
That seems a little on the warm side to me. I would probably set the "fan start" a little lower, around the 112-114 C (233-237 F) range. I would rather have it running than overheat my bike.


I wrote in my previous post that I would operate the fan at 110C. I was kinda hoping when I operated the 4" Spal pull fan it would have stabilized the temperature, but unfortunately it didn't, it did however noticeably slow the temp increase down. Its definitely doing its job as you can physically feel the blast of hot air being drawn from the rear of the radiator. Im starting to be slightly concerned about slow technical trail riding here in Thailand with the high temperatures, should I be?

  • gscx

Posted April 05, 2011 - 11:10 AM

#29

Did you rejet the carb that comes lean from the factory while you had it all apart?

  • johnnysneds

Posted April 05, 2011 - 11:32 AM

#30

Did you rejet the carb that comes lean from the factory while you had it all apart?


No I haven't as I need to send the bike for an emissions test soon in an effort to obtain a Thai registration book.
The bike came with a jet kit from the factory, not sure whether they are spares or larger diameter jets, haven't looked into it further as yet. Will rejetting make a significant affect on engine temp? I've read elsewhere that rejetting will swallow up alot of your fuel range!

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  • byggd

Posted April 05, 2011 - 03:27 PM

#31

[QUOTEWill rejetting make a significant affect on engine temp?][/QUOTE]
A rich running bike will run hot just as a lean running bike will run hot. It's a trial and error thing but the jetting sticky should help you get close. Then it's a matter of reading the plug and going from there.

  • johnnysneds

Posted May 01, 2011 - 06:08 AM

#32

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  • johnnysneds

Posted May 01, 2011 - 06:08 AM

#33

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  • 04WR450F

Posted May 01, 2011 - 07:18 AM

#34

Oh man! Awesome job! You're apparently a very skilled mechanic and photographer. Beautiful bike.

Is the chain adjustment block at the rear axle in backwards?

  • johnnysneds

Posted May 01, 2011 - 08:57 AM

#35

Oh man! Awesome job! You're apparently a very skilled mechanic and photographer. Beautiful bike.

Is the chain adjustment block at the rear axle in backwards?



Yes you are correct, well spotted. Just checked with photos from Yamaha website. The initial confusion came when I received the bike and one side was incorrect (notches did not match up). Ive obviously rotated the wrong side. Doesnt really matter its purpose is only to stop the axle shaft from rotating, but ill rotate both 180 just to keep things right. Thanks for pointing this out. :thumbsup:

  • homer2000

Posted May 01, 2011 - 12:52 PM

#36

Hey where did you get your wheels from, how much did that set up cost you

  • 066logger

Posted May 01, 2011 - 02:42 PM

#37

first off sweet set up. but the only thing i was wanting to warn you about is that a/f mixture screw. if you look at the stock one you will notice its brass. their is a reason for that. aluminum against aluminum tends to gall badly and if you do much adjusting on your fuel screw then you will ruin the fine threads in your carb theirfore ruining your carb. dont ask me how i know :worthy::confused::busted:. a good a/f screw is the i think its called R@D flex jet. it extends the head out just like your idle adjust screw and also has the all imporntant brass threads and screw. this is what i run and its a sweet piece. :thumbsup:

  • johnnysneds

Posted May 01, 2011 - 09:01 PM

#38

Hey where did you get your wheels from, how much did that set up cost you



Do a search for "17 inch Supermoto wheels Rims for Yamaha" on eBay :thumbsup:

  • johnnysneds

Posted May 01, 2011 - 09:05 PM

#39

Hey where did you get your wheels from, how much did that set up cost you


first off sweet set up. but the only thing i was wanting to warn you about is that a/f mixture screw. if you look at the stock one you will notice its brass. their is a reason for that. aluminum against aluminum tends to gall badly and if you do much adjusting on your fuel screw then you will ruin the fine threads in your carb theirfore ruining your carb. dont ask me how i know :worthy::confused::busted:. a good a/f screw is the i think its called R@D flex jet. it extends the head out just like your idle adjust screw and also has the all imporntant brass threads and screw. this is what i run and its a sweet piece. :thumbsup:



I understand what your saying, noted. Anyone else had this issue with the ZipTy?

  • byggd

Posted May 02, 2011 - 07:27 AM

#40

I understand what your saying, noted. Anyone else had this issue with the ZipTy?

I.ve had the same screw installed on my bike for years and have never had an issue. BTW love this shot. Looks almost like a toy bike sitting in a miniaturized town. :thumbsup:
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