My New WR450F 2011!!!!!!!


44 replies to this topic
  • johnnysneds

Posted February 22, 2011 - 06:50 PM

#1

Hi all,

I'm hoping some of you WR450F owners can lend some assistance here.
I live in Thailand and I have a shady guy (it's difficult to find someone who will import) importing a 2011 WR450F for me which will arrive on the 26th of this month. I have no idea where it is coming from only that it will be available on the 26th.
Now my issue is how to identify for sure a 2011 model from previous years. I have studied photos from websites and it appears the only difference is the graphics. Now I wouldn't put it past these guys to replace the plastics onto an older model and sell as a 2011.
Any other ways to identify a 2011 model easily without taking it apart. Can the chassis/engine number be searched on a specific website that will reveal all.

Many thanks in advance for the feedback

  • gsa102

Posted February 24, 2011 - 05:55 AM

#2

USA bikes have a easily visible date on the VIN tag on the frame around the steering head. Can't say for other countries, but look for that. It would be difficult to fake one and make it look original.

If I was going to switch a bike like that, I wouldn't even bother with the graphics - takes too much time and skill to change them and make them look factory, plus I wouldn't invest the $ and cut into my profit.

  • YamaLink

Posted February 24, 2011 - 06:02 AM

#3

The VIN. In most countries the 10th number/digit/letter of the 17 digit VIN tells you.

Example: The vin is JYAC616325A004097

Based on that, (J is the #1, Y is the #2 position) what year do you think the Yamaha is?

  • simon@vic

Posted February 25, 2011 - 11:37 PM

#4

don't pay for it until it is in front of you!!

2007-2011 is the same bike so the amount of use (its km's) is more important then the actual year.

get the frame number and input it on this website:

http://www.motoverse.../vinDecoder.asp

it will tell you what all the #s and letters stand for.

  • johnnysneds

Posted February 26, 2011 - 12:35 AM

#5

Hey Lads,

Thanks for the helpful responses. Have taken note and tested some of my own bike VIN numbers on the Motoverse website with success. This should a good indication, hopefully it will work with my iPhone on the day. The bike arrived in country Thursday and is being assembled as we speak, ready for collection on Monday. The tenth number looks like the important digit (year of manufacturer). 2011 models should read "B" here if im not mistaken.
Below is a picture of the bike that I will be jumping on come Monday.
Will post some photos up if all goes well. :thumbsup:

Posted Image

  • BangTaoBoy

Posted February 28, 2011 - 08:49 PM

#6

They say no news is good news. However, knowing Thailand and Thai customs, I fear the worst.

Waiting with baited breath for good news. :thumbsup:

  • HighRevz

Posted March 02, 2011 - 10:09 PM

#7

So where's the pics? Monday has come and gone, lol! :thumbsup:

  • johnnysneds

Posted March 03, 2011 - 04:17 AM

#8

Sorry for the delay guys, but I got delayed by a few days myself:crazy:
All good now, picked the bike up in Bangkok on Tuesday then I had to travel up to the north of Thailand.

The bike is brand spanking new and completely stock, not a scratch on her. Received 2011 manuals and paperwork, spare 50t sprocket, spare needles for the carb, tools, all the good stuff. I have no doubts the bike is 2011 but when checking the vin using the link from a previous post in this thread it doesn't quite check out. The year for the vin is indicated by a "0"!!! All other details from the vin are correct. If your replace the zero with a 9 you get a successful vin message. Not sure if this is something to do with 2011 models, it should be an "B" if I'm not mistaken? I have a friend who has a KTM which has only 7 characters in his vin, a 2010 model.

Anyways there's a few niggling issues I noticed during the first ride, probably due to the speed they chucked it together before I collected. ItS a nightmare to get it into neutral, it dumped most of it's water going through the Bangkok traffic, the rpm doesn't return to idle quickly.

Here's a photo of the bike shortly after I picked her up. I must say first time I've seen one and it looks stunning. Biggest grin I've had this year so far.:thumbsup:

Will post some more up shortly

Posted Image

  • gsa102

Posted March 03, 2011 - 02:01 PM

#9

Anyways there's a few niggling issues I noticed during the first ride, probably due to the speed they chucked it together before I collected. ItS a nightmare to get it into neutral, it dumped most of it's water going through the Bangkok traffic, the rpm doesn't return to idle quickly.


Check out the sticky for the "hanging idle"

  • byggd

Posted March 03, 2011 - 03:17 PM

#10

ItS a nightmare to get it into neutral

Sounds like they may not have adjusted the clutch cable correctly.

it dumped most of it's water going through the Bangkok traffic

Doesn't it have a catch tank behind the left rear number plate?

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  • johnnysneds

Posted March 04, 2011 - 05:57 PM

#11

Check out the sticky for the "hanging idle"


Yeah cool, will give that a go, thanks.

  • johnnysneds

Posted March 04, 2011 - 06:18 PM

#12

Sounds like they may not have adjusted the clutch cable correctly. Doesn't it have a catch tank behind the left rear number plate?


The bike should arrive today in the post, so hopefully will get to mess about with all the initial issues found. I adjusted the clutch at the lever which made going into neutral slightly easier but the clutch bite/engage was too late on the lever stroke.It needs adjusting at the clutch itself I think.

Yes there is a collector tank at the rear, left hand side. When I picked up the bike this was nearly full. On returning back to my friends with the bike it was found empty and the radiator was half full. I remember the overflow pipes underneath spewing out alot of water sitting at traffic lights.

I will be taking the bike apart when I get it and re-assemble using correct torques etc. Will give the whole bike a good going over.

I have a Scott Steering Damper, Clarke 3.6 gallon tank, Trailtech Vapor +Temp Sensor on order for initial mods. I will also be modifying one of the radiators with a 4" Spal Fan connected to a manually operated switch and c/o the stator mod. I would like to operate this fan from the temp sensor if possible, has anyone heard anyone successfully setting the fans up automatically?

I will not be carrying out the free mods yet, better to get use to it stock first:thumbsup: My last bike was a KLX250S so there is ample of power on tap for me stock :thumbsup:

I think i'll probably be re-springing her also as I weigh in the region of 210 lbs.

  • byggd

Posted March 05, 2011 - 08:48 AM

#13

overflow pipes underneath spewing out alot of water

Water? That might be part of the problem. You need a mixture of antifreeze to raise the boiling point. If it's a US spec bike it's probably jetted very lean which will make it run hot.

  • Yami-Ivan

Posted March 05, 2011 - 08:56 AM

#14

Water? That might be part of the problem. You need a mixture of antifreeze to raise the boiling point. If it's a US spec bike it's probably jetted very lean which will make it run hot.


That would be my speculations, too.

  • SXP

Posted March 05, 2011 - 09:00 AM

#15

Water? That might be part of the problem. You need a mixture of antifreeze to raise the boiling point. If it's a US spec bike it's probably jetted very lean which will make it run hot.


Right, and make sure it's a 50/50 mix of distilled water (NOT tap water) with a good silicate/borate free coolant.

  • johnnysneds

Posted March 25, 2011 - 08:22 AM

#16

OK guys at last got the WR delivered to my home in north Thailand, alot of problems with customs paperwork, anyway its here and im happy as Larry.
So I picked the bike up from the post office this morning and it was a pig to start. Eventually after a while the kickstart got it. You wouldn't be expecting this from a new bike, maybe the gasohol in Thailand had a contributing factor (E10 Ethanol). It does state in the manual that this is acceptable (Canadian models only) not sure why this is! its been sitting for 3 weeks with Gasahol in it. I had previous issues with Gasahol in an 01' R! (Carb). The Gasoline in Thailand is a big problem, its very difficult to find Benzine 95 (regular unleaded). I will be removing the engine and card to give it a good clean/inspection to see if there has been any issues with the fuel. Any ideas why you guys think it has been a pig to start, you reckon fuel?
Now when the bike arrived in Thailand it gets built by some back alley outfit I assume so needless to say I found plenty problems as far as ive dismantled it so far. The rear sub frame was not far from falling off, some fuel lines were not secured properly, axle bolts (wheel and swing arm) over torqued by about 5,000 lbs/ft, pinched wires/hoses, lack of grease to bearings/pivot points, wiring loom incorrectly routed, clutch well out of adjustment, upper triple clamp loose, air filter non existent of lubrication, the list goes on and on.
Ive read some awesome posts on this forum with guys upgrading their WR's, its really interesting to read and has given me some pointers in the right direction. However I cant go full bore as some of them have, getting parts/upgrades in Thailand is a major ball ache with customs etc so I need to take things relatively slowly. I have a few mods already and will post up the progress as I go along. For now I just want to get her stripped down and checked as far as I can, any help along the way from you experts is always welcome.
So below is the progress so far with photos.

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I dont know what I'd do without my two wee helpers!
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Grease non existent!!!
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Just the engine/Carb to get out in the next few days to check/clean
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  • johnnysneds

Posted March 31, 2011 - 04:35 AM

#17

Hi Guys,

Ive came to the point where I need to address the clutch issue that I noticed when I collected my new bike. Ive included a video below to explain the problem better. First of all when you started the bike and put it into 1st gear there is quite a noticeable clunk/judder as it goes into gear. When the bike is not running its relatively easy to get into neutral but when its running its a complete bitch to get into neutral. Now if you refer to the video below you can see the clutch being operated and the cable on the casing operating the clutch lever. You'll notice when 1st is selected you obviously are unable to rotate the crank. Now when the clutch is operated you still cant rotate the crank easily but with a little effort it will turn. The handle appears to be adjusted correctly and there is no excessive slack. Does the cable look like its operating the clutch lever in its full range of movement to you? Id guess at around an angle of 15-20 degrees its rotating. It appears to me that its dragging because its not being fully disengaged.
Your thoughts and possible solution before I go in the deep end?



  • gsa102

Posted March 31, 2011 - 08:25 AM

#18

Do you have spring pressure the whole time you pull the lever in? Check to make sure the clutch throwout mechanism was assembled properly. There may be a part missing so that it is not lifting the pressure plate enough. Drain the oil or lean the bike over and take the clutch cover off. As you pull the lever you should see corresponding movement of the pressure plate through the whole lever travel. There should be about 1 mm of slack at the lever before it starts to pull on the cable. A slight "clunk" noise is normal shifting into first with the engine running. Also check for the correct number of plates in the clutch, though I doubt they would have recieved extras.

Edited by gsa102, March 31, 2011 - 08:27 AM.
Added info


  • johnnysneds

Posted March 31, 2011 - 08:43 AM

#19

Thanks ill give this a try in the morning. Yes constant spring pressure all the time when pulling the lever. I adjusted the lever so it took up the slack at the clutch side with a couple of mm play. I agree with you about a slight clunk being normal but this is quite severe probably because of the clutch not being fully disengaged.
Very strange as its brand new and has come straight out the factory in Japan and exported to Thailand as parts. I don't think the exporters would have touched any of the clutch internals.
Ill remove the cover tomorrow and report back.
As per the video link I posted previously, can you please confirm the lever rotation is of similar rotation (range of movement) to your own?

  • OUTERLIMITS

Posted March 31, 2011 - 09:01 AM

#20

Wow. I would think this should have arrived to you in the same condition as any bike over here in the states. That being, completely assembled by Yamaha with the exception of the front wheel and handlebars I believe. All of that stuff you mention is unreal. Is there no Yamaha shop at all near you?

As to the way the bike starts and runs, they come sick. I bought a new XR650R that ran like a 250 and decided with my WR that I was going to do all the necessary carb/intake mods before ever riding it. Once you have the correct jetting, that bike will start very easily and run like a beast.




 
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