Bars and Hand Controls for 2005 WR450?


8 replies to this topic
  • BAnd05

Posted February 13, 2011 - 10:24 AM

#1

Hey Everyone,

I just finished reading a post from another guy who, like me, made his first ever offroad riding experience on a WR450. My thought at the time - why not just buy the bike I want to end up with anyway? Well, it's been a long road getting up to speed, but 5 years later I'm feeling fairly competent. Not agressive yet, but in control and having a blast :smirk: when I can get out and ride.

I want to add some common sense upgrades that will help me to continue improving. Here's my question for all of you experienced guys: I want to upgrade my hand controls - bars, grips, and levers as my first official mods (I know - 5 years!:rant:).

What I am looking for is higher bars - I've learned to ride standing 80% of the time and feel like I should feel most comfortable in that position. I'd also like to to reduce resistance in my clutch (maybe that's just lubrication?) What all do I need to replace when changing out the bars? Also, does anyone recommend a steering stabilizer as a good investment (they're pricey!)?

I'd really appreciate comments on this - what you recommend and what I'll need to complete the job. (I think I'll need longer cables, for example.) I've got the Cycra / Fastway barkbusters if that makes any difference. Thanks!

  • crooks420

Posted February 13, 2011 - 03:48 PM

#2

Just lube the clutch cable and lever pivot points.... stock levers are fine. Grips, I like the ProGrip gels, 714 or 737.... something like that, they are great comfy grips. Unless you are very tall, the stock renthals are pretty good bars. As for a stabilizer, you see alot of desert racers using them, and thats where you would really like it: high speed desert riding.

My 2 cents....

Jesse

  • strtdsmallproject

Posted February 13, 2011 - 05:39 PM

#3

2005 wr450....stock bars are great. I went with the rekluse, it was probably the best upgrade yet. I suggest a good set of bark busters to protect your levers and digits. I went with the no clutch lever and added the rear break lever. That was the second best upgrade.

  • BAnd05

Posted February 13, 2011 - 08:55 PM

#4

Thanks crooks420 and strtdsmallproject; maybe I'm over thinking it.

I've been considering the rekluse and the left brake lever. One less thing to worry about.

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  • miweber929

Posted February 14, 2011 - 04:40 AM

#5

Unless you go with WAY taller bars, stock will be fine. Lube everything or even put in a new clutch cable if yours is suspect at all as they are like $20. I usually swap mine out every few years as they do tend to get sticky over time.

You are over thinking this a bit, but that's what we are all here for!!

However, don't think going with a Rekluse gives you one less thing to worry about. As great as they are they can be tricky to setup and keep in spec especially if you are a lazy oil changer. I get 'em, and it's cool, but shitting and clutching are what makes cycles, well cycles. Otherwise give me a scooter!! I still believe that 2 identical bikes with identical rider will a Rekluse style clutch being the only difference, the manual clutch will be faster in the section and it'll be easier on their bike overall.

JMHO.

  • MANIAC998

Posted February 14, 2011 - 04:43 AM

#6

One commonly used method of making the Yamaha clutch pull easier, is to lengthen the clutch arm. The clutch arm is the piece that the cable ends at down on the engine, and it has a slight bend in it. You can easily remove this, and put it in a vise to straighten out the bend, which ever so slightly lengthens it, making the clutch pull easier. This mod along with proper cable routing and cable lubing makes the pull very easy. Maniac

  • strtdsmallproject

Posted February 14, 2011 - 10:15 AM

#7

However, don't think going with a Rekluse gives you one less thing to worry about. As great as they are they can be tricky to setup and keep in spec especially if you are a lazy oil changer. I get 'em, and it's cool, but shitting and clutching are what makes cycles, well cycles. Otherwise give me a scooter!! I still believe that 2 identical bikes with identical rider will a Rekluse style clutch being the only difference, the manual clutch will be faster in the section and it'll be easier on their bike overall.

JMHO.


I thought the same before i drank the rekluse kool aid. I promise that if you ask anyone with a rekluse they will tell you that their riding got a ton quicker. My old man (58) who has been raceing since the late 60,s also went with the rekluse and swares by it. His only fault being he rides orange. I still ride a clutch bike also. I race the rekluse in hare scrambels. Ive been riding 32 years and understand the inportance of clutch control, but you really got to try one. The brake thing i wouldnt trade for anything. I went with the dual foot and hand set up and love it. I would say the clutch was the best single mod done after the uncorking. Maintenance hasnt been a problem yet either, but i have only been running the clutch for a year. No adjustments or failures. I have the rekluse pro kit. The only time i use the little clutch lever add on is when starting in gear. I havent had a problem switching back and forth on my bikes. Some of you older guys will agree after riding bikes that had shifters and kick startes on the wrong sides. Im not trying to argue, just share my experiences. :smirk:

Edited by strtdsmallproject, February 14, 2011 - 10:35 AM.


  • BAnd05

Posted February 27, 2011 - 08:41 AM

#8

Thanks for all the comments and sorry for not replying sooner. It sounds like the rekluse could be very interesting bt due to cost I'll have to wait another year. I appreciate the tips on lengthening the clutch arm, Maniac, and everyone seems to agree that the stock bars are OK, so I'll save those dollars, grab a new clutch cable and call it good!

Thanks to all for your help.

  • X-Racer

Posted February 27, 2011 - 03:47 PM

#9

I've been considering the rekluse and the left brake lever.


I'd definitely consider removing the LEFT BRAKE LEVER. :thumbsup:

As for the steering stabilizer. Depends on what terrain you ride in.

I really only use mine when I'm in extended periods of high speed bumpy terrain.

...and the problem is getting to it to change it (taking the hands off the bars). I had one bad experience when inadvertently dialing it up from zero to "hero" and went into the next turn and kept laying the bike over (the bars weren't turning) until eventually ended up high-siding (would have just slid out on hard pack, but it was in sand).

That was on my Scotts unit. My GPR unit on another bike has numerical incremental "Clicks" and may offer a safety advantage in that sense. You can see what it is adjusted to. Both units work great in the needed locations.




 
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