08WR AIS Removal..I did it -Questions...

[ILOAD2]

Did the removal..

In the manual there was a small Note-

NEVER REMOVE THE TPS SENSOR EVER-UNLESS REPLACING FAULTY SENSOR.

I could not figure out a way to remove the carb without unbolting the TPS??

The mount is slotted so I re attached it where I could see there was a defined Dirty/clean outline of where the little torx bolt was originally removed..?

Is this what everyone does?

I could find NOTHING in the shop manual in regards to TPS "adjustment"-basically where to set the sensor in the slot "range".The "range" I would say is less than 1/8 from one side to the other.

I started the bike and the only difference I could perceive is with the choke out on start up it didn't want to Idle High right off the cold start like it has been pre AIS removal.Just sort of idled normal "warm" style.When bike got hot I put the choke off and it idled down a bit more but continued to run at a slow lope I would consider to be about 900-950 RPM...

Anyone have an opinion?

Sea Level-all the jets-settings according to GYTR instructions.

[William1]

The manual gives three values for the TPS, the only ones that matter are the value at idle and at WOT. If your adjusting puts it in that range, that is all there is to it.

Normally, you simply unplug the sensorr. The wire is about 6 inches long and terminates to a triangular plug. AIS removal by itself wll not change the bikes performance one bit, it is the GYTR needle and other bits that make the difference.

Did you properly adjust your fuel screw? 900 rpm idle is about 1/2 of what it should be.

[jwatts]

Wow this is interesting,i'm doing the same thing to my 09' wr 450. I just unpluged the sensor, Can i just plug it back in when i'm done, Will it still function the same? I've read some jumbo that claims if you unplug it the TPS it goes a little haywire. Is this true?? thanks and good luck Iload,let us know how you make out,please.

[ILOAD2]

The manual gives three values for the TPS, the only ones that matter are the value at idle and at WOT. If your adjusting puts it in that range, that is all there is to it.

Normally, you simply unplug the sensorr. The wire is about 6 inches long and terminates to a triangular plug. AIS removal by itself wll not change the bikes performance one bit, it is the GYTR needle and other bits that make the difference.

Did you properly adjust your fuel screw? 900 rpm idle is about 1/2 of what it should be.

I see..Now I feel very ignorant that I didn't even think about tracing the connector to a plug...?

I did all the adjustments per instructions-and am really guessing about the RPM I am hearing.With choke off I could be more in the neighborhood of 1200

I would have to say definitely not quite at an 1800rpm .The bike pulls great off the bottom goes through high end-no pop or stumble..I haven't tested that constant throttle mid range yet to see if that weird constant throttle stutter is still present...I just hope I put it all back together sano as I NEVER want to do that job again.It was not pleasant work.The WR with a street legal wiring kit is Very hard to work on..

[William1]

With the sensor unplugged, the bike CDI goes into a default mode. It still runs oK, but will be down on power. If the sensor is broken or out of adjustment, unplugged sometimes is better than plugged in.

[jwatts]

William,how do you get the sensor to un-default mode?

[William1]

William,how do you get the sensor to un-default mode?

You make sure the TPS works and is adjusted properly, then plug it back in.

If the TPS is broken or misadjusted and plugged it, it will 'tell lies' to the CDI. When it is disconnected, the CDI can tell and then it runs in the default mode.