426 Installed FWW and How to adjust a Rekluse


30 replies to this topic
  • spdnjoe

Posted January 31, 2011 - 10:20 AM

#1

I took greyracer's advice and put on the 14oz flywheel weight on my 2001 426. I took it out for 3 solid days of riding. We rode everything from washes to hill climbs to putting around with the kids. The bike ran awesome. Never stalled once, and started easier than ever. We were able to putt around with the kids, ride super technical ridgelines and bogg it down like an xr or rip up the hill climbs.
I just wonder why I didn't do this sooner. I would never go back to the stock flywheel again.
I even talked my brother into doing a 9oz on his 2005 CRF450R and the same results.
If anyone has any doubts...DON'T ! You'll love it !

Hope this helps anyone on the fence about a FWW.

Edited by spdnjoe, February 02, 2011 - 11:35 AM.


  • 426 hemi

Posted February 01, 2011 - 07:42 AM

#2

i was thinking of doing a fww but wasn shure if it would rob the bike of power for hills and mx kinda stuff, im putting a yamalink in this week and a raklus in next. fww hmm?

  • spdnjoe

Posted February 01, 2011 - 10:29 AM

#3

If you're doing the Rekluse, I would wait and see if you even need one. I didn't feel hardly any loss in pick-up. Climbs way better and less wheel spin.

  • grayracer513

Posted February 01, 2011 - 11:32 AM

#4

Having ridden mine with and without the heavier flywheel, and then having added the Rekluse, I will say this: The Rekluse is cool, and it is better at preventing stalling than the flywheel is, but the flywheel adds a smoothness to the lower RPM and improves the engine's pulling ability in a way the the clutch can't.

IMO, the Rekluse is great in it's element, but it isn't necessarily for everyone. I'm keeping it, but I'm not going to take the flywheel off under any circumstance.

  • Mr. Neutron

Posted February 01, 2011 - 11:41 AM

#5

Having ridden mine with and without the heavier flywheel, and then having added the Rekluse, I will say this: The Rekluse is cool, and it is better at preventing stalling than the flywheel is, but the flywheel adds a smoothness to the lower RPM and improves the engine's pulling ability in a way the the clutch can't.

IMO, the Rekluse is great in it's element, but it isn't necessarily for everyone. I'm keeping it, but I'm not going to take the flywheel off under any circumstance.


I too have been a benefactor of your advice on the flywheel (and many other things, also.... :thumbsup: ), Grayracer513.... But ya got me curious....... What do you consider the Rekluse's "element"????? :lol:

Jimmie

  • SXP

Posted February 01, 2011 - 12:06 PM

#6

I too have been a [COLOR="Red"]benefactor[/COLOR] of your advice on the flywheel


Beneficiary. Opposite of benefactor (a person who gives some form of help to benefit a person).:thumbsup:

  • grayracer513

Posted February 01, 2011 - 12:25 PM

#7

What do you consider the Rekluse's "element"?????


Tight off-road situations, nasty, rough hill climbs with speed and direction changes required, or anything close to that. I don't see it being of very much benefit in MX unless you brake stall a lot.

  • 450motard

Posted February 01, 2011 - 01:35 PM

#8

Tight off-road situations, nasty, rough hill climbs with speed and direction changes required, or anything close to that. I don't see it being of very much benefit in MX unless you brake stall a lot.


I couldn't agree more!

I just installed a Z-Start Pro on my 2010 and I couldn't be happier! Well, almost.

I still managed to stall the bike 4 times this weekend (125 miles of very tight, technical, rocky terrain, so not too bad). I've got the idle cranked up a bit to avoid acceleration stalls, but it's not completely perfect yet.

First step is to check the actual idle rpm. If it's where it needs to be, I'll probably do a FWW.

  • Gunner354

Posted February 01, 2011 - 01:48 PM

#9

Tight off-road situations, nasty, rough hill climbs with speed and direction changes required, or anything close to that. I don't see it being of very much benefit in MX unless you brake stall a lot.


Rekluse is great for mx.
No need to restart bike in 99% of crashes and 3rd gear starts are great for holeshots.
RC had a form of an auto clutch the very first year fourstrokes went outdoors. Not many people are aware of that.

  • grayracer513

Posted February 01, 2011 - 02:15 PM

#10

I still managed to stall the bike 4 times this weekend. I've got the idle cranked up a bit to avoid acceleration stalls, but it's not completely perfect yet.

If you have the bike set up with the inner and the short outer spring (mid engagement speed) and all 27 balls (hard engagement rate), and your bike sometimes or often stalls under sudden acceleration in a high gear as it would if you let the clutch out too quickly, try the dropping down to the same spring set with 24 balls (mid engagement speed, softer engagement rate). I had a similar sounding problem, and dealt with it that way. I took the bike on a tricky little trail ride last week and started it once at the beginning. Pretty cool.

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  • Mr. Neutron

Posted February 01, 2011 - 04:14 PM

#11

Beneficiary. Opposite of benefactor (a person who gives some form of help to benefit a person).:lol:


Hey, Thanks for correcting me there, SXP! Now I'm a beneficiary again!!!! :ride: Thanks! :thumbsup:

And Grayracer513, thanks for your reply (again!)! That was what I figured you were getting at. I do know a guy or two with KTMs that do like them for mx around here. They seem to be appreciated by almost anyone, on any brand, when the going gets snotty.....

Jimmie

  • 450motard

Posted February 02, 2011 - 07:13 AM

#12

If you have the bike set up with the inner and the short outer spring (mid engagement speed) and all 27 balls (hard engagement rate), and your bike sometimes or often stalls under sudden acceleration in a high gear as it would if you let the clutch out too quickly, try the dropping down to the same spring set with 24 balls (mid engagement speed, softer engagement rate). I had a similar sounding problem, and dealt with it that way. I took the bike on a tricky little trail ride last week and started it once at the beginning. Pretty cool.


Not trying to threadjack, but I started with the medium/soft setting, which you described. I called Rekluse and they advised me to try the high/soft setting and turn the idle up - he said he has a lot of calls from guys with FI bikes complaining about acceleration stalls and a higher idle is usually the answer.

  • grayracer513

Posted February 02, 2011 - 07:42 AM

#13

Yeah, the FI bikes are probably going to want to set up a little differently, overall. Either way, if the bike dies under a quick acceleration at a relatively low speed, the clutch is usually engaging too fast, so going to the "soft" setting is usually the answer.

  • tech24

Posted February 02, 2011 - 08:56 AM

#14

I couldn't agree more!

I just installed a Z-Start Pro on my 2010 and I couldn't be happier! Well, almost.

I still managed to stall the bike 4 times this weekend (125 miles of very tight, technical, rocky terrain, so not too bad). I've got the idle cranked up a bit to avoid acceleration stalls, but it's not completely perfect yet.

First step is to check the actual idle rpm. If it's where it needs to be, I'll probably do a FWW.


I have the GYTR flywheel and z-start pro. I like the combo but the bike still stalls at times mostly slow uphills and slow rough terrain when not on the gas much. I have soft engagment (24 balls) and changed to high engagment speed and cranked idle up to 2100 to 2200 and it still stalls at times but not as bad. One thing I have noticed is that you gotta bet the bike hot so the idle speed is up and stable or it will stall much more.

  • Gunner354

Posted February 02, 2011 - 10:43 AM

#15

I have the GYTR flywheel and z-start pro. I like the combo but the bike still stalls at times mostly slow uphills and slow rough terrain when not on the gas much. I have soft engagment (24 balls) and changed to high engagment speed and cranked idle up to 2100 to 2200 and it still stalls at times but not as bad. One thing I have noticed is that you gotta bet the bike hot so the idle speed is up and stable or it will stall much more.


This scenario should never happen. I have been using a Rekluse since 04 and recently had similar problems. Original set up was med/ hard. I played around with different springs also . What I found was that the clutch gap actually was below 10k. Originally at 37k .The Rekluse has been in my 09 for a 18 months and had worked perfect. The bike did sit for about 6 months though. Some oils actually make the friction discs swell. Fixed the problem by removing the bottom metal plate against clutch basket and then removing another metal plate and replacing it with a thicker one supplied from Rekluse. Gap was right in specs and all stalling is gone.
So if you are having stalling issues at all check the gap with feeler gauges.

  • grayracer513

Posted February 02, 2011 - 10:52 AM

#16

So if you are having stalling issues at all check the gap with feeler gauges.


The gap is important. I'd just like to remind those new to working on a Rekluse that when you check the gap, a gauge of equal size needs to be placed under two opposite sides so that you are measuring a straight lift of the pressure plate. If you slide a gauge under one side only, the plate will tilt, and your reading will be wrong.

  • Gunner354

Posted February 02, 2011 - 11:03 AM

#17

The gap is important. I'd just like to remind those new to working on a Rekluse that when you check the gap, a gauge of equal size needs to be placed under two opposite sides so that you are measuring a straight lift of the pressure plate. If you slide a gauge under one side only, the plate will tilt, and your reading will be wrong.


Thanks for the reminder of two opposing feeler gauges. Assuming that everyone knows that, but unless you have experience with the original z-start you may not be aware of the procedure. The gap on the Pro model should be 30-40k. Anything below 30k will make it drag and stall.
Another way to know if the gap is to low is the bike should NOT creep when you knock it into gear when the motor and oil is not warmed up to operating temps.

  • tech24

Posted February 02, 2011 - 11:22 AM

#18

This scenario should never happen. I have been using a Rekluse since 04 and recently had similar problems. Original set up was med/ hard. I played around with different springs also . What I found was that the clutch gap actually was below 10k. Originally at 37k .The Rekluse has been in my 09 for a 18 months and had worked perfect. The bike did sit for about 6 months though. Some oils actually make the friction discs swell. Fixed the problem by removing the bottom metal plate against clutch basket and then removing another metal plate and replacing it with a thicker one supplied from Rekluse. Gap was right in specs and all stalling is gone.
So if you are having stalling issues at all check the gap with feeler gauges.


I agree this shouldn't happen. I've been in contact with customer support and thats when we decided to install the high engage spring. From what I understand I'm not the only one with this problem with efi bikes as there very finiky about flameout. Everything is new and gap is correct . I haven't had it out for long with the high spring in it and i need to mess with idle speed a little bit.

  • spdnjoe

Posted February 02, 2011 - 11:36 AM

#19

LOL. I changed the title of the thread to make it more appropriate to the actual subject of this thread.

  • tech24

Posted February 02, 2011 - 12:16 PM

#20

yeah sorry we strayed from the subject...however I did add that I use the heavy flywheel with the rekluse :thumbsup:





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