AIS Removal kit

6 replies to this topic
  • jwatts

Posted January 20, 2011 - 02:36 AM


Having recently picked up my 09' wr 450 i would like to do some mods to it.Can anyone give me some info on the GYRT ais removal kit? i just bought one. My wr is basically stock except the throttle stop,grey wire mod. Any tips on getting the Carb. off,it looks pretty hard to get to. I ride mostly singletrack,quad trails and fire roads in the elev. range of 1,000-2,000 ft. Thanks

  • Dube2

Posted January 20, 2011 - 07:40 AM


Congrats on the new WR. The AIS kit is very easy once you remove everything. I had an 05 and now have the 08. The 05 could be done in an hour but the 07 through 11 are about 2-3 hours give or take 15 minutes. Some here will tell you a few little pointers to save a few minutes here and there, but when you get down to it, get the Carb on the bench with plenty of light and its a snap. you just need to remove the seat, rear fender, subframe, rear spring, battery, gas tank, shrouds, etc... it goes on and on. don't cut corners, if at all you'll get to know your bike a little better. The little parts and pieces are really no big deal.

Now for me sinse I live/ride so cal forest OHV area's I plugged all the hoses and left the kit still connected to the bike. it will totally pass the visual, but if you remove hoses you'll see my plugs. Same with the grey wire, i did it in a inconpicuous area so can't be seen very well. I'm sure I'll never get checked that thourghly, but I don't want to be paying for a ticket either. same for sparkarestor, i uncorked the bike but left the spaky in the stock pipe. my bike runs like a top, pops a little in high elevation but an ajustable fuel screw will take care of most of that.

Plan on seeing more of the bike than you originally thought. Hey she's a big nasty girl, but still sexy even naked. clean off the bench, break out the bike stand, turn on some Nitro Circus, open a beer and enjoy yourself.

  • William1

Posted January 20, 2011 - 07:55 AM


Not even that hard.
Seat, Muffler, shock, pull carb. 10 minutes to pull, 15 to put back.

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  • 2in2out

Posted January 20, 2011 - 10:41 AM


I'll be pulling my carb out today also. Remove seat and fuel tank. Remove lower subframe bolts, loosen the top ones, and loosen intake boot on carb, and associated hoses. Hinge subframe up and out of way. Remove rear shock. Open throttle cable cover on carb and unhook cables, and unhook TPS plug. Loosen forward boot, pull carb out rear. Open beer, and revel in what you've accomplished. Lather, rinse, repeat, rejet. Reverse order to replace.

  • rkwfxd1

Posted January 20, 2011 - 05:48 PM


flipping the sub-frame up and forward as mentioned above saves a bit of time and at least for me seems to make the job easier when it comes time to line everything up and put it back together again.

I waited a long time to buy my 09 because I heard and read all of these horror stories about how difficult these bikes are to work on.

I have not found this to be the case, oh sure it took me at least 30 seconds to twist and drop the valve cover into place when I checked my valves but the truth is, it is all just spinning wrenches.

  • dustdogg

Posted January 20, 2011 - 05:54 PM


I would also take the time to grease your shock and linkage bearings while your at it. Pretty easy to day as long as you take your time and keep track of your parts. You have probably already heard this but most bikes come with very little grease in them and by repacking them, the bearings will last a long time. Just remember to do this every so often, more so in wet/muddy conditions. My '02 still has all the original bearings in it!!! Stay up with the maintanence and these bikes will last!!!

  • kawi380

Posted January 21, 2011 - 04:50 AM


Unless you are going to change the fuel screw or just want to take a good look at the carb you can rejet without removing it from the bike. I still like to go through the steps to remove the shock because when I rejet in the spring an fall i also grease the brearings. With the shock out of the way you can loosen the carb boot and spin the carb around to get to everything you need. The needle from the top, the ap on the one side and the main and pilot jets thought the 17mm float bowl drain plug. I find the hardest part of the whole deal is getting the airbox boot back on the carb during reassembly.


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