Help with adjusting Rekluse EXP on my 2010

[atropine]

I installed a Rekluse Core EXP on my new 2010 YZ450 last week. I just barely got the bike broke in before I installed the Rekluse. Installed the Rekluse exactly according to the directions, pretty easy to follow. After the initial clutch break-in as described in the manual, I set the installed gap at 1 full turn + 3 ticks, as per their recommendation. Took it out for a ride and soon discovered that I was able to stall it. So I I turned it up to 1 full turn + 5 ticks; still able to stall it. So then I changed out the blue/red springs to all blue springs (in order to get it to engage only at higher rpms). Couldn't tell much difference, still able to stall it. So today I have pulled it apart and completely re-checked everything, re-set it to 1 turn + 3 ticks, but still able to stall. Turned it back up to 5 ticks, but still able to stall it. In fact, this seems even worse. The bike wants to "creep forward" in neutral, whereas at 3 ticks it doesn't. This seems backward to me. Shouldn't it be less prone to creeping forward at 5 ticks? I am only making the installed gap larger which should make it be "more disengaged". Why am I able to still stall it?

[Gunner354]

You can stall if you are on the gas and the brake at the same time.

Also try turning the idle down slightly.

[eazrider]

I was never able to get the EXP on my 2010 to work as well as the "Pro" on my '06, it would lock up too quickly, perhaps because of the notchy power on the bottom throttle response....I also had problems with it stalling. I ended up pulling the EXP and installing a "Pro" with the handle bar adjuster....I can now control the engagement point, and engagement rate (using 24 instead of the full 27 balls supplied) The EXP works fine on my '05 2 smoker.....

[tech24]

When is the bike stalling? The reason I ask is I just installed the pro on my 2010 and it will stall at the top of hill if I'm not on the gas, it may be due to the fuel delievery from the fuel injection. I haven't found anyway of curing this on mine yet. I also installed the GYTR heavy flywheel which seems to help with this some.

[Gunner354]

When is the bike stalling? The reason I ask is I just installed the pro on my 2010 and it will stall at the top of hill if I'm not on the gas, it may be due to the fuel delievery from the fuel injection. I haven't found anyway of curing this on mine yet. I also installed the GYTR heavy flywheel which seems to help with this some.

This scenario should never happen. Try turning the idle down. Sounds like there is still dragging or not total disengagement. The type and weight of oil makes a huge difference.

[grayracer513]

Idle speed will have a lot to do with creep at a standstill, and it will affect how easily the bike brake stalls, but if it stalls when you let off the gas during a climb, or when the engine gets bogged down from being in the wrong gear, etc., it's more a matter of the clutch not releasing soon enough. Under these conditions, the engine would be dragged down to or below your idle speed even if it were set too high, and the clutch should let go or back off.

I had a similar problem with my Z-Start Pro at first, and took the same approach as eazrider did in slowing the engagement rate, rather than raising the engagement speed. If the EXP offers the ability to do that as a separate function from changing the engagement RPM higher/lower, I'd try that.

Idle speed on a 2010 needs to be a little higher than on the carbed models because it helps them start better, and they have a tendency to flame out at lower RPM's at times. You can probably find ways to tune around that, but as delivered, they do like to idle a bit faster, which could complicate things with the Rekluse a little.

[tech24]

This scenario should never happen. Try turning the idle down. Sounds like there is still dragging or not total disengagement. The type and weight of oil makes a huge difference.

I've tried everything other than raising engage speed to high which I am hesitant to do because it performs so well on the track. The bike is just so picky and as grey said idle speed sensitivity does complicate things on this bike. Its not too big of deal I just have to use the clutch once in a while. I may try the high engage speed and try it out. If I could change idle fuel mixture I could probably correct it with fuel but I can't as of now.

[atropine]

thx everyone. i just got off the phone with Rekluse and they tell me that it should be able to be tuned to work properly. i need to open it up and reinspect a few things, which i will do later in the week when i have time. need to check that the center clutch spins free, the exp wedges are lined up properly, and that press plate is lifting evenly. will let u know what i find. thx again.

[Gunner354]

What weight of oil are you using?

[atropine]

whatever comes from the factory. i was planning to do its first oil change after i got the clutch adjusted right.

[Gunner354]

Anything above a 10-40 and or to tight of an installed gap will cause it to creep also. Have experienced this many times. Good luck

[mike_dean]

If the center large clutch hub nut was not torqued properly,(overtightened) you will have to replace the washer behind the clutch hub and retorque. The clutch will drag because it actually rubs on the basket. The problem doesn't happen with the stock hub, you can hit that with an impact and not have a problem. This happened to my '06, possibly your '10 isn't much different.

[mike_dean]

Anything above a 10-40 and or to tight of an installed gap will cause it to creep also. Have experienced this many times. Good luck

I run 20W50 for offroad in my '06 and no problem

[mike_dean]

thx everyone. i just got off the phone with Rekluse and they tell me that it should be able to be tuned to work properly. i need to open it up and reinspect a few things, which i will do later in the week when i have time. need to check that the center clutch spins free, the exp wedges are lined up properly, and that press plate is lifting evenly. will let u know what i find. thx again.

I'm betting the center clutch doesn't spin free, and you need a new washer.

[Pat E]

Atropine, I feel better that I am not alone on this! I put an EXP on my 10' and have experienced exactly all the same problems you did, and I still don't have a fix either. I race primarily MX and did notice that throughout the entire season it was never out of adj. every time I checked it. I'm running all blue springs, one turn + 3 ticks, and it will still stall every once in a while, usually coming into a corner. (it seems to know when I'm leading a moto somehow...?) It did seem to help when i turned UP the idle, but still not perfect. I know I'm not offering a fix, but at least you know your not alone!

[Swiss_Dirtrider]

You're not alone at all... I have stall problems with my 450 2010 and the EXP too!

I can stall it everytime when i hit the throttle out of idle and let it snap back just after. It stalls every time i do this. Of course, this isn't a "normal mx move" on the throttle, but it can happen on the track like that in special situations.

i run fresh 10-50 Panolin MX Racing Oil and have the EXP gap set to the recommended settings, with stock engagement springs.

if i'm right, they even recommend to turn the idle up so the bike wants to fairly creep forward on idle. So i did that, but that does'nt help on the stall problem i mentioned above.

So, if anyone have a solution for that stall issue, please keep posting! I bought this clutch for only one reason: NO STALLING ANYMORE ?

Thanks

Oliver

[Beanb1]

With the help of the Rekluse techs, I found that motocross bikes need three lighter wedges and all the lighter springs need to be used. I had the stalling problem when I first put the EXP in my 10 yz450f, but putting three of the lighter wedges and all light springs in resolved my stalling problem. They found this solved the problem when they were working with a RMZ450.

Kit RMS-259 #10419 I think they are around $25.

[eazrider]

Wouldn't you want "stiffer" springs to complement the lighter weights..? The lighter weights would require higher RPM to engage, and stiffer springs would do the same thing....I had lighter weights, and the stiffest springs and it did not solve the problem.....Maybe I'M the one that has it bacwards..???

[atropine]

With the help of the Rekluse techs, I found that motocross bikes need three lighter wedges and all the lighter springs need to be used. I had the stalling problem when I first put the EXP in my 10 yz450f, but putting three of the lighter wedges and all light springs in resolved my stalling problem. They found this solved the problem when they were working with a RMZ450.

Kit RMS-259 #10419 I think they are around $25.

So did you put in all red springs or all blue springs?

Thx

[atropine]

so i took it all apart again last night and it all looked good. was able to spin the center clutch pretty easily, but i took it all apart and re-torqued everything just to be sure. it still feels the same, i was able to stall it in the driveway. so i talked to the rekluse techs this morning, and they were very helpful. they verified that several others have had the same issue and that switching to some lighter wedges and all blue springs should fix it. they are sending me a set of the lighter wedges, should be here in a few days. i will let you know if this fixes the issue on my bike, but i am optimistic based on other responses here. thx everyone!