whats the difference between the ais kits


27 replies to this topic
  • Catc15

Posted December 16, 2010 - 08:02 PM

#1

Ok I have a 2005 Wr 450 and I can't financial the GYT-5TJ93-69-00 kit. I have found a GYT-5TJ93-69-00 kit. And the tt kit is ubavalible. So what's the difference between the 2 besides year fitment. Jets?

  • William1

Posted December 17, 2010 - 04:24 AM

#2

Yamaha kit includes throttle stop screw and a selection of jets.

  • dgcars

Posted December 17, 2010 - 04:57 AM

#3

Ok I have a 2005 Wr 450 and I can't financial the GYT-5TJ93-69-00 kit. I have found a GYT-5TJ93-69-00 kit. And the tt kit is ubavalible. So what's the difference between the 2 besides year fitment. Jets?


I took good advice from William1 and made my own. Better job and a lot neater too....:excuseme:

  • Catc15

Posted December 17, 2010 - 10:48 AM

#4

Can you send the link to make your own or pm me?

  • Catc15

Posted December 17, 2010 - 10:53 AM

#5

So is the needle different the jets plugs or what? If the jets are the difference I can live with buying a few. I wish they would list what all is included?!!!!

  • dgcars

Posted December 17, 2010 - 01:46 PM

#6

So is the needle different the jets plugs or what? If the jets are the difference I can live with buying a few. I wish they would list what all is included?!!!!

OK..The TT kit is not available. If all you are going to do are the free mods, then get the GYTR kit. If you use this, you are still going to have a $hitty pipe sticking out of the side of your motor, with a collection of rubber pipes & zip ties. By the way, they were on indefinate back order last time I checked. If it is your intention to use an aftermarket exhaust or want to set your bike up more...don't bother with it. Get a jet kit and do your own AIS. If you decide on the latter, i'll pm you or ask william1. This is what is left behind when you DIY.Posted Image

  • Catc15

Posted December 17, 2010 - 02:58 PM

#7

Ok thanks man. Ya pm me if you would

  • Col Psoas

Posted December 18, 2010 - 12:31 PM

#8

OR if you'd be kind enough to post it or a link to the DIY I'm sure you'd make a few other people very happy...

  • dgcars

Posted December 18, 2010 - 12:36 PM

#9

OR if you'd be kind enough to post it or a link to the DIY I'm sure you'd make a few other people very happy...


Sent pm

  • William1

Posted December 18, 2010 - 03:30 PM

#10

dgcars, how about you make a write up about it in this thread?

I know I told you how to do it but you recently did it. Perhaps you can include pictures and specs?

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  • dgcars

Posted December 18, 2010 - 03:37 PM

#11

dgcars, how about you make a write up about it in this thread?

I know I told you how to do it but you recently did it. Perhaps you can include pictures and specs?


Sure, will do it tomorrow..23.35 pm here...time for bed

  • dgcars

Posted December 19, 2010 - 07:21 AM

#12

dgcars, how about you make a write up about it in this thread?

I know I told you how to do it but you recently did it. Perhaps you can include pictures and specs?


Apologies in advance for using different terminology ie. cable tie = zip tie etc...Install was done a couple of weeks ago, so no step by step pics.
1. Remove seat & Tank.
2. Undo the jubilee clip on the steel pipe coming out of the motor.
3. Slide back the spring clip on the short section of rubber pipe at the AIS unit.
4. Take off this steel section
5. Follow the long rubber pipe from the AIS back to the airbox. Slide back the spring clip at the plastic fitting & pull off this pipe.
6. Remove the 6mm rubber pipe at the 90* metal connection on the side of the motor.
7. Take off the AIS unit where it attaches to the frame.
8. The small 90* fitting on the side of the motor is a light interference fit. Just twist & pull. It should come out easy.
9. Pull out the 90* plastic fitting at the airbox. Make sure it clean around this area before doing so. Temporarily cover this hole to prevent any debris from entering.
10.You are now left with the straight steel pipe coming out of the side of the motor. This is a light interference fit. Using a slide hammer - tap it out. Twisting and pulling just doesn't work.

You are now left with these 3 parts.

Posted Image

I made all 3 plugs from alloy. If you don't have access to a lathe, a machine shop will turn them in a few minutes. I made the engine plugs with a small shoulder, but you can go for a flush finish, your choice. I also used pipe seal on fitment.



The plug for the airbox is just a copy of the section from the 90* plastic elbow where it enters the airbox. Over all length 16mm with a 4mm shoulder. This i sealed in with silicone.

Posted Image

I left a small shoulder on both engine plugs. Overall length of the larger plug (exhaust side) was 18mm, with a 4mm shoulder. Diameter where it enters the engine measured 12.06mm. I would reccommend a small 'lead in' to ease fitment.

Posted Image

The smaller of the two plugs (inlet)has an overall length of 12mm, with a 4mm shoulder. Diameter where it enters the motor - 6.05mm.

Posted Image

Additionally, your choice & a little more labour, you can plug the hole where the air is injected into the exhaust.
1. Remove the exhaust header
2. Remove the scew in plug at the cylinder just above the exhaust. Use a 6mm allen key.

Posted Image


This will give access to plugging it up. If you look into the exhaust you will see the stem of an exhaust valve. On the upper side of the exhaust chamber - the air injection hole will be visible. Either make a plug, 6mm in diameter or I used a cap head screw with the threaded portion cut off. Insert this thru'the top of the chamber, where you removed the screw in plug and finish flush to match the profile of the exhaust chamber. Assemble with High temp sealer and replace the screw in plug.

Edited by dgcars, December 20, 2010 - 08:42 AM.
deleted pics accidently


  • William1

Posted December 19, 2010 - 09:28 AM

#13

Nicely done! :excuseme:

Kudos!:busted:

  • dgcars

Posted December 19, 2010 - 01:25 PM

#14

Nicely done! :excuseme:

Kudos!:busted:


Slainte.......:busted:

  • Catc15

Posted December 19, 2010 - 09:30 PM

#15

What year Wr was this on. It seems a little different than mine (05)

  • dgcars

Posted December 19, 2010 - 11:04 PM

#16

What year Wr was this on. It seems a little different than mine (05)


An '09. :excuseme:

  • William1

Posted December 20, 2010 - 08:16 AM

#17

Please do not use the open forums to buy,sell or trade. PM or use the classifieds.

  • SXP

Posted December 20, 2010 - 09:52 AM

#18

Apologies in advance for using different terminology ie. cable tie = zip tie etc...Install was done a couple of weeks ago, so no step by step pics.
1. Remove seat & Tank.
2. Undo the jubilee clip on the steel pipe coming out of the motor.
3. Slide back the spring clip on the short section of rubber pipe at the AIS unit.
4. Take off this steel section
5. Follow the long rubber pipe from the AIS back to the airbox. Slide back the spring clip at the plastic fitting & pull off this pipe.
6. Remove the 6mm rubber pipe at the 90* metal connection on the side of the motor.
7. Take off the AIS unit where it attaches to the frame.
8. The small 90* fitting on the side of the motor is a light interference fit. Just twist & pull. It should come out easy.
9. Pull out the 90* plastic fitting at the airbox. Make sure it clean around this area before doing so. Temporarily cover this hole to prevent any debris from entering.
10.You are now left with the straight steel pipe coming out of the side of the motor. This is a light interference fit. Using a slide hammer - tap it out. Twisting and pulling just doesn't work.

You are now left with these 3 parts.

Posted Image

I made all 3 plugs from alloy. If you don't have access to a lathe, a machine shop will turn them in a few minutes. I made the engine plugs with a small shoulder, but you can go for a flush finish, your choice. I also used pipe seal on fitment.



The plug for the airbox is just a copy of the section from the 90* plastic elbow where it enters the airbox. Over all length 16mm with a 4mm shoulder. This i sealed in with silicone.

Posted Image

I left a small shoulder on both engine plugs. Overall length of the larger plug (exhaust side) was 18mm, with a 4mm shoulder. Diameter where it enters the engine measured 12.06mm. I would reccommend a small 'lead in' to ease fitment.

Posted Image

The smaller of the two plugs (inlet)has an overall length of 12mm, with a 4mm shoulder. Diameter where it enters the motor - 6.05mm.

Posted Image

Additionally, your choice & a little more labour, you can plug the hole where the air is injected into the exhaust.
1. Remove the exhaust header
2. Remove the scew in plug at the cylinder just above the exhaust. Use a 6mm allen key.

Posted Image


This will give access to plugging it up. If you look into the exhaust you will see the stem of an exhaust valve. On the upper side of the exhaust chamber - the air injection hole will be visible. Either make a plug, 6mm in diameter or I used a cap head screw with the threaded portion cut off. Insert this thru'the top of the chamber, where you removed the screw in plug and finish flush to match the profile of the exhaust chamber. Assemble with High temp sealer and replace the screw in plug.


This is for the 250s right? I don't recall having to deal with any pipes with interference connections on my 07 450.

  • dgcars

Posted December 20, 2010 - 10:55 AM

#19

This is for the 250s right? I don't recall having to deal with any pipes with interference connections on my 07 450.


Yep. The '07 450 uses a different AIS.

  • SXP

Posted December 20, 2010 - 01:43 PM

#20

Yep. The '07 450 uses a different AIS.


It confused me for awhile until I saw the 250 in your signature line. Might confuse others too as it's posted in the 450 forum.




 
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