Start with a clean bike and a clean workspace. Warm up the oil by doing a couple of laps around the neighborhood. I prefer to ride the bike a little rather than just let it idle to get all the oil up to temperature. This makes sure that even the oil that’s in the transmission warms up and the air flow keeps the rest of the bike from overheating.
With the bike all warmed up, remove the skid plate (3 bolts). The manual recommends removing the oil fill cap and the dipstick at this point, I did, but don’t think it was really necessary at this point.
Place an oil pan under the bike (accounting the trajectory of a shooting stream of oil). Unscrew the drain bolt and be ready for the hot oil stream that will shoot out. Tip: I suggest wrapping a small section of the bike frame in aluminum foil to keep the oil from getting into the tiny crack where a cross brace is welded to the frame (see where I have oil drip on the frame), I didn’t do this, but wish I had. Wait for all the oil to drain and then tip the bike even more to the left to get more oil out.
Unscrew 3 bolts of the oil filter cover and remove. All 3 bolts are different, so just remember where each goes. Here I wrapped the hose with a piece of plastic to keep it clean.
Remove the old oil filter. A tiny bit of oil will drip out.
Remove the crankcase drain bolt.
Expect more oil to stream out, so get the pan ready. If your pan isn’t large enough to be under all the holes you opened up, screw in the first drain bolt you removed (use a new crush washer) and replace the oil filter with the cover. After most of the oil came out of the crankcase, tip the bike to the right to get the last bit of it.
Put in the new filter and reinstall the cover. Tighten the cover bolts evenly, a little at a time each.
Reinstall both drain bolts with new crush washers. Put in fresh oil. I used about 1.1qt of Motul 3000 10w40. Close the oil fill cap and screw in the dipstick. At this point you could consider the job finished if you wanted, but this was my first oil change on this bike and I wanted to finish it according to the manual, which called for checking the oil level and pressure.
Now let’s check the oil pressure. With all the drain bolts closed and fresh oil in the bike, crack open the oil galley bolt (8mm, see the wrench in the pic below). Don’t open it, just crack it. Start the engine and watch for oil to begin to seep. If no oil is seeping after about a minute of engine running, either you didn’t losen the galley bolt enough or you have some kind of oil pressure problem. Tighten the galley bolt.
Checking the oil level. With the fresh oil in the bike take another couple of victory laps around the neighborhood to get the oil up everywhere in the motor where it’s supposed to go. Turn off the bike and let it sit for about 5 minutes. Use the dipstick to check the oil. Be sure the bike is straight up and down for this, not leaning on the kickstand. Just insert the dipstick gently, but don’t screw it in. The oil level should be mid way in the cross hatch area. Here the manual recommends removing the check bolt to see if any excess oil will come out and who am I to argue with the manual (see wrench in the pic below). Again, with the bike up and down no oil should be pouring out of the check bolt hole. Don't forget to tighten the check bolt when done checking.
As a treat to yourself for the job well done go ahead and install that new beefy skidplate you ordered. You’re done!
Edited by pickawinner, December 13, 2010 - 04:13 PM.