Motor Oil



32 replies to this topic
  • Arizona_Jeff

Posted March 14, 2001 - 11:40 AM

#21

I personaly don't care who get's there panties in a wad over a certain subject. The way I see it if you have no scientific lab work to prove it's "not good" and if you must make a comment I feel you should show respect to the post'er and say something like "Intresting article" then you spend you time on the internet find your own scientific data report proving otherwise and post the link to the site and let both parties read both links and form there own opinions and keep the boards clean and friendly.
However if I was more knowledgable on this subject I think I'd have to have fun with it like Rich did. Even if nothing get's proven at least he gave em hell for making that crisis emergency warning post on my topic. Good Job Richard! Jeff

  • mike_dean

Posted March 14, 2001 - 05:39 PM

#22

Just a note, not meant to start anything, just info. The instructions with my Hinson clutch basket say to use only mineral oil in the gear box for best results, and to change it after every ride. I have used GTX 10w40 and 20w50 in my bikes for over 30 yrs and have had no problems, but I am a fanatic about maintenance. mike

  • DaveJ

Posted March 14, 2001 - 10:06 PM

#23

Mike,

Good point.

Was the Hinson request per the clutch friction discs or something to do with just the basket?

And I could be wrong, but I don't think GTX is a mineral oil.

DaveJ

  • mike_dean

Posted March 15, 2001 - 02:02 AM

#24

Dave it did not say why on the Hinson instructions. I could only guess that it is to extend the life of their product and to improve clutch action, but that is just a guess.

  • dirtdad

Posted March 15, 2001 - 07:24 AM

#25

Okay guys, Just FYI, here's another twist to this debate. DaveJ and Mike, I called Hinson in regard to your question on their recommendation of using mineral based oils in conjunction with their parts. They recommend (supposedly from their own testing)plain old Valvoline 5W30, unless you're riding in an area exceeding around 100deg. then 10W40. They say that they get real positive feedback from consumers that have used this on their recommendation. They also recommend changing oil after every ride or every other ride if that seems too expensive. They DO NOT endorse motorcycle specific oil at all and agree that although most are good, just not worth the money as other oils are just as effective. I found this very interesting coming from the folks who produce probably some of the most durable and popular clutch parts for bikes.
Obviously, alot of experience there in this area. 5W30 seems pretty light to me, but Hinson should know what they're talking about!? What do you all think???? Worth a try? Rich, DaveJ, etc...???

------------------
like a kid again!
00 YZ426F
01 TTR-125L (my son's)
91 CR125
83 YZ490
74 Hodaka Super Combat

[This message has been edited by dirtdad (edited 03-15-2001).]

[This message has been edited by dirtdad (edited 03-15-2001).]

  • Rich_Rohrich

Posted March 15, 2001 - 07:48 AM

#26

During your discussions, did the guys at Hinson make a distinction between two-stroke gear boxes and four-stroke engines? Given the dramatic differences between the two, it's my opinion that the blanket prescription they gave you isn't appropriate.

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  • dirtdad

Posted March 15, 2001 - 08:33 AM

#27

Rich, My discussion with them was YZ426 specific. I have their clutch basket and inner hub(boss). I told the guy that 5W30 sounded pretty light and he assured me that's what they recommend. Of course you know that if I called back and talked to another person, I may get a whole other story!?? Just one more bit of information to make those of us without the rocket science degree more confused!!! :)

------------------
like a kid again!
00 YZ426F
01 TTR-125L (my son's)
91 CR125
83 YZ490
74 Hodaka Super Combat

  • Rich_Rohrich

Posted March 15, 2001 - 09:27 AM

#28

It's interesting to note that "plain old Valvoline 5W30" is an EC rated oil.

With all due respect to the guys at Hinson (I love their products), I think I'll take a pass on this particular advice. :)

  • dirtdad

Posted March 15, 2001 - 09:54 AM

#29

Rich, once again you've planted enough doubt in my mind (probably a good thing)to not try the oil recommended by Hinson. Just give me a straight answer to one question. Would I be wrong to use any of the oils listed in the original article that I referenced at the beginning of this post???? It's the article by Mike Guillory. Thank you.

------------------
like a kid again!
00 YZ426F
01 TTR-125L (my son's)
91 CR125
83 YZ490
74 Hodaka Super Combat

  • Rich_Rohrich

Posted March 15, 2001 - 10:28 PM

#30

Originally posted by dirtdad:
Would I be wrong to use any of the oils listed in the original article that I referenced at the beginning of this post????


If I HAD to guess I would say probably not, but given that I only have personal experience with a handful of those oils, and have no idea the conditions your engine routinely sees, it would be stupid of me to say for sure.

I generally use Castrol GTX 10W40 (or Kendall GT) to break in new four-strokes. Once broken in I tend to gravitate towards Mobil 1 15w50 automotive for normal riding. In a full race, sustained high heat, high rpm applications I've see oil analysis data that makes it a bit tougher call on what the best choice is.

  • dirtdad

Posted March 15, 2001 - 10:46 PM

#31

Rich, I didn't mean to put you on the spot over this. I guess maybe I worded my question poorly. Your response gave me a better idea though. I guess what some of us are looking for is that the oil we ulitmately choose may not be the BEST choice but won't hurt the motor or clutch either. Correct me if I'm wrong (and hopefully will end this thread) but choosing the appropriate viscosity and changing the oil as often as possible are more important than brand given that we avoid
oils with friction modifiers. My apologies to everyone for dragging this out. :)

------------------
like a kid again!
00 YZ426F
01 TTR-125L (my son's)
91 CR125
83 YZ490
74 Hodaka Super Combat

[This message has been edited by dirtdad (edited 03-15-2001).]

[This message has been edited by dirtdad (edited 03-15-2001).]

  • Rich_Rohrich

Posted March 15, 2001 - 11:52 AM

#32

Given the simple filtering and low oil volumes in the current group of thumpers, I would whole heartedly agree that clean oil is the most significant factor. It's ultimately why I put Mobil 1 in my YZF and TTR. I dump the oil after every ride, and while I KNOW that Mobil 1 isn't the best possible oil it's much easier to stomach that frequency at $3.50/quart versus the $15 liter for the really good stuff.

  • dirtdad

Posted March 15, 2001 - 03:07 PM

#33

Thanks again Rich. :)

------------------
like a kid again!
00 YZ426F
01 TT-R125L (my son's)
91 CR125
83 YZ490
74 Hodaka Super Combat





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