:busted:

according to the test certificate my engine is going to self destruct .

this motor has done 6000 klm , runs sweet , sounds fine .

the lab called me personally with deep concerns .

the oil is silkolene 15w 50 full synthetic , this tested oil had done 1300 klm . he said it had lost viscosity . some people go 1000's of miles without a oil change . :crazy:

Rather scary results...That's around 800miles..

maybe a few sceptics of frequent oil changes will change their oil more often now...

Hey Chooken..Any way to post a larger test report..finding it a bit hard to read..

it just goes blurry as i magnify it , i just use zoom

Ok..I did the zoom thing....:bonk:

I see in comments that there are critically high levels of iron , aluminium and magnesium(indicating piston/ring and engine block wear) . high oxidation levels , low viscosity ...that oil is very unhealthy..:mad:

and that the oil should be checked at 1/4 the 1300kms service interval to access it's condition.....shit, that's only 325kms.....that will be interesting to see how it shapes up after those low kms...

I like how it then says that other results are satisfactory . They just pointed out that your engine might be lunching itself , but every thing else is alright . Is this the namura piston ? or is it your 472 ? If it is the stroker , remember it has sat for a while ( high level of sulphates and all ) , or did you have the oil tested right away ? Wouldnt the fact that the bore is nicasil plated show up on a test anyway ? or should it seal so well that nothing will scrape off after it is run in ? I know my magnetic plug had a lot of metallic sediment on it after my first oil change at 20 klms or so . Havent reached a thou yet to do another , greg

its a wiseco piston 94mm , i am interested to hear from others who have had this type of test done .

this motor is smoother and quieter than my stroker motor , the tech said because it is a fairly new motor could show in the results .

this motor has all the loctite fixes done and runs sweet , one of the reasons i had the test done was for oil viscosity . i am shocked at the poor level of viscosity in such a short period .

i do not rev this motor over 8500 rpm , so its not as if i am hammering it .

i was also using this test to see if i could get 1500 ~ 2000 klm between oil changes , no way ... 1000 klm it is

i wonder if the wet clutch would have any indication in the results

Very interesting ;)

Makes my wallet feel better about oil changes at 250km...

another comment ... when i took the sample into the lab the tech commented on how clean the oil was .

if it looks clean it does'nt mean anything , change your oil brothers [ and sister ]

A couple of thoughts on your oil analysis. First, did you supply a virgin sample of oil? Many bike oils have naturally high levels of metal in them for specific purposes. Second without a baseline comparison to other analysis, this analysis does not really tell you much. I have used Blackstone oil analysis in N.A. and they usually provide a statisitical background for comparison purposes. By seeing what other bikes with similar mileage have for results you can determine whether you are high or low on the scale. Based on the single snap shot that you have provided, your only concerns would be the loss of viscosity and possibly the high water content. The high water content may just be that your sample was taken before the engine was able to boil the water of suspension. Viscosity breakdown is somewhat common on motorcycle engines due to the transmission shearing the oil. You should probably get another analysis in a 1000km or so which will tell you whether you really are having high wear in the motor. Good luck.

Thanks for posting this & wow .. that oil is sitting at its base level viscosity after it should have started acting like a 50wt oil :(

Change at a shorter interval or try a different brand of oil .... My oil is never clear except when I pour it in ... After that, it gets dirtier looking each day ... after 250 miles or so, it is very black ...

Its hot where I am so I go 1L full synthetic and 1L Rotella 40 WT ... This should cut down on the additives needed to stretch the viscosity to the heavier WT of a multi-grade oil... These additives are what breakdown, stopping the oil from acting like the upper WT level that is essential to stop engine wear ....

The oil guys actually called you? That is pretty good service ... Better than about 95% of all the gfs I have had ...

ba10 said:

yeah ... the tech said i need to develop a baseline for further tests , what you say makes sense

I do mine at 500 miles..on/off road 65/35%, during break in I did it every 200, oils cheap compared to engine parts, thumpers are tough on oil. At 3K miles your running valve grinding compound.

A couple of thoughts:

1) Al is likely from clutch. Al is typically higher in motorcycle oil due to the clutch and is a common finding: http://www.bobistheo...&Number=1492903

2) Mg is a known oil additive and is likely why the Mg is so high. Sending in a virgin oil sample for testing would confirm this.

3) Fe at 19 could be high, but you need more data points - more samples to track the level over time.

4) Water may have been present due to sampling technique. If the engine did not reach operating temp for a few minutes before the sample was taken, there still may have been some water in the oil. Again, more data points are needed to see if that's the case.

5) Viscosity is definitely low. This oil sheared to mid-30W in just ~800 miles! Fuel at 2.4% could be slightly contributing this, but 2.4% is not unheard of in carb. motorcycles. Typically ~2% or less is acceptable. However, as per 4, this could also be due to sampling technique, if bike idled excessively before sample was taken and/or it was not warmed up fully.

6) A lot of the experts on this board push the Silkolene 15W50 as "the oil" to use. However, this viscosity drop and the additive package (Ca, Zn, P, Mol, etc.) show the Silkolene is nothing special and is in fact extremely over-priced for what you get. I have had multiple samples tested in my DRZ400E with both Rotella 15W40 and Delvac 1300 15W40 (~$11/gal) changed out at 1000 miles. Both have performed better than the Silkolene in terms of viscosity drop. And both also show low/acceptable wear numbers.

Hmm so me changing mine every like 2000ish miles not prob the best thing to do :P

Viscosity breakdown is somewhat common? .... Sounds a little trivial ... All oil breaks down as it is being used ... All companies strive to stop this breakdown as it is catastrophic to UR engine when it happens ...

Actually the oil does not break down ... It only gets dirty ... The additive packages (VIIs in this case) are what break down making the oil act thin... I'm a little surprised to see a true synthetics rate so poorly in the viscosity area as they don't require as many VIIs added as a dino oil and should naturally hold up better than this in this area ...

This has nothing to do with any baseline ... Unless I'm miss reading the sheet, this oil is acting like a 10WT after it has reached operating temperature of the engine ...

ray_ray said:

ASTMD445 (viscosity@100C) is reported in centistroke/cSt (also defined as mm2/s).

The 10.86 cSt of this sample falls within the SAE 30W range of 9.3 - 12.5 cSt, thus making it a mid 30W: http://www.infineum....%20-%202008.pdf

cool and 30 is better than 10 but still too low for me ... I'd change oils or the interval of miles before oil changes ...

I wish I could do one of these on my bike to verify the viscosity break down but the cost here is too much ..

ray_ray said:

As you said, some viscosity breakdown always occurs with oil over time, so most manufacturers knowing this, design their engines to tolerate some level of shearing during the specified oil change interval or they recommend one grade higher knowing that the oil will shear. However, viscosity should not be viewed as the end-all be-all in terms of oil performance. Ultimately, how well the oil protects the engine against wear is what really matters. And in terms of oil analysis, it's the wear metal results that show this best.

what does your magnetic drain plug look like after a typical oil change? pictures maybe?

just figured I could compare it to mine, others. less scientific of course, but free.