What psi are you using?  How big compressor?

I think that might be part of the problem too. My compressor is only 2hp and I think it's on it's way out. It would be the second compressor I've killed in a decade. But they're still significanltly less expensive than say a 5hp unit. I'm seriously considering ganging two 2hp compressors together, cheaper than a 5hp, takes roughly the same space as my current set up, I can use my existing redneck air receiver set up and they should live longer. Besides cost, I don't have the space for a 60 gallon stand-up unit. My compressor is actually hung from the ceiling of my workshop which is a 10X12 barn style shed.
One of these years, I'm going to get a garage.
Pressure... I didn't pay much attention to the gauges. I started when it hit 80 psi, but I don't know what it was putting out over the course of the process. My compressor maxes out at 140 and the capacity of my red neck receiver is close to 20 gallons. I'll be sure to let it fill completely next time.

Edited by Smacaroni, 16 March 2012 - 03:20 AM.

You could maybe try a 3/8 tube instead.  Post a pic of your blaster.

For anyone looking to do some soda blasting this engine cleaner gun from Harbor Freight works pretty good for $7 http://www.harborfre...-gun-68290.html

Edited by xrcrf100, 16 March 2012 - 12:44 PM.

Will the baking soda take paint off? Rust?

Jeekinz, on 16 March 2012 - 05:40 AM, said:

That's a US dime and quarter, inside diameter is just over 1/2". It siphons amazingly well.

Edited by Smacaroni, 17 March 2012 - 11:49 AM.

Try shortening the feed a little.  Mine is onlylike 10-12". I also have a wire taped tonit to hold it straight.

Will do, thanks. BTW, you don't know it yet, but you've created a monster. I used to be satisfied with "washing" a carb body at the garden hose, soaking it in carb cleaner so the insides are pristine and calling it a day. Now my yard looks like Charlie Sheen sneezed.

Been refurbishing my 91 KX.  Had the misses get a couple boxes of soda and I made a system.  Works pretty good.
Goes through the media fast.

I looked at the crushed walnut shells they had at HF.  Was like $25 for a  big box.

I'll post some pics of my results too.

CooHead

Coo, keep in mind the soda only removes stains.  Walnut, glass and other media may distort the surface, so try on a spare piece first.  You can go through soda pretty quick, but it's only $3 for a large box and you can get it everywhere.

Smacaroni, you see the Pine Sol thread?  http://www.thumperta.../page__hl__pine

PudgyOTE, on 16 March 2012 - 04:02 PM, said:

Sorry, I missed your post.

The soda might remove some light paint, like that green overspray on that hub I did.  Never tried it on an actual paint job.  It won't remove rust or grease or dirt.  You have to degrease thoroughly first.

Jeekinz, on 20 March 2012 - 05:45 AM, said:

Yes, soaps usually contain lye, lye reacts with aluminum and zinc. When I get another jeweler's scale, I'm going to do a low-tech experiment to determine if there's enough lye to do any harm, until then, not on my carbs. I posted my concerns in the thread, however, these were written off as "it doesn't harm the rubber - you're just being bullheaded to innovation", which is entirely unrelated to my concern. It's also kind of expensive , my bucket of carb cleaner has done at least a dozen carbs, there's more than half of it left (after I spilled a lot) for $23. How much is pinesol by comparison $2, $3 per carb? Just cause it's new, doesn't mean it's an improvement.

one quick yellow box of Arm&Hammer was enough to do both sides of the rear hub of this 1991 KX250.

You can see I didn't prep clean anything.  It came out pretty good enough.  But should have wiped that bit of grease off first.  The soda blaster doesn't take the grease off, but does take rust and stain out.

I'm going to get a couple boxes, wear eye protection and intake filter and go at it a bit better.















(can click on a pic and go to my PhotoBucket to see a couple more pics)

CooHeadly

Edited by CooHead, 20 March 2012 - 06:26 PM.

Coo, you should go over those wheels with some degreaser and detail brushes to get all that packed in dirt out first.  Dry, then hit it with the soda.  Rinse, and it looks like maybe some aluminum wheel cleaner and a soft stainless steel detail brush should clean the remaining staining.  Those black spots WILL come out, but you have to work at it.

It all depends how clean you want the part.  You can hit the spokes with the soda too.

You can get a set of brushes like these at Lowes in the paint department.

Edited by Jeekinz, 21 March 2012 - 05:30 AM.

Changed a couple of things.
It's currently 62F, 86% humidity, dew point is 58 (it's pretty humid), so the first shot was a mess, everything just gummed up. I added an in-line dryer and that fixed the gumming up problem.
I made sure the pressure in the tank stayed over 100PSI and I had the regulator set between 75 and 90 PSI (75 before the dryer, 90 after).
First time I was using a self-coiling hose. I don't know why I keep that thing, it always causes me problems. I need to cut off the end, clamp a ball-inflation needle or ball chuck (valve stem) in it so I'm not tempted to use it for any "real" jobs any more. Seems better simply using a "normal" 3/8" with 1/4" fittings hose.
I tried inserting a smaller ID tube in the large one (the air gun nozzle must be inside this tube), that seems to really help. I sealed it off with electrical tape cause I had it handy, but I don't think that makes much difference.
I tried a shorter length hose from the box to the gun, no change that I can tell.

I didn't realize this when I tried the first time, but neither then, nor now did I do anything to the parts before blasting. I missed the degreasing suggestion and I think that's my problem.
Also, I found out this siphons scoopable kitty litter too. It may be the humidity, but I think this is too soft. Initially, it appears to be more aggressive, but then it seems to crap out once it's knocked the majority of the dirt off. If you try this, first, wear safety gear, goggles or at least glasses, a dust mask is probably good (P95/100 is better), and what seemed to get me is something to cover your ears. It's not any louder, but bits of clay kept falling in my ears. Maybe it's cause I've got no hair, but incredibly annoying.

Edited by Smacaroni, 21 March 2012 - 08:20 AM.

Us bald guys are challenged in many ways.

I just used a box of the A&H stuff on the rear brake caliper.  It cleaned up real good.

Tempted to try some of that crushed walnut shells to see how that does.

No Jeekinz....I'm fine with how it came out.  I could and should and would do a more thoughrough clean and scrub....but it's an old bike that is going to get dirty.  Since I have it so far apart, I'm cleaning and soda balsting parts of it....but am not going to the full extent you have on some of yours.

I admit, I conspired with Gillette to finish the job Mother Nature started.

Jeekinz, on 20 March 2012 - 05:49 AM, said:

Thanks!

FYI, killed the grass. It could have been the guy who treated the lawn, or possibly a combination of the lawn treatment and soda making the soil more basic, but I'm pretty sure it was me.
So you might want to put down a sheet of plastic in the area you're working in to collect the majority of the baking soda, then you can re-use it too if only to help clean your drains (1/4 cup followed by hot water weekly).
The area that died is about 6X6, so an 8X8 sheet should cover enough to prevent the problem.

Oops! Oh well, I've poured much worse on the lawn and it grew back eventually.

Smacaroni- You can improve your water issues by adding copper piping between the compressor and the receiver tank. Usually store bought compressors come with a short 6" section that goes straight into the receiver. Get a good 3-4' section and coil it around the receiver (away from the hot compressor) before entering into the tank. This will give the humidity in the air time to condense into water. You will have to drain your receiver tank more often but it keeps the water out of the air. You can also add a drip leg into this copper to remove the water before the tank it you want. Total cost is $15 for the copper and some thread sealant.