Soda Blaster



80 replies to this topic
  • KDN

Posted 03 November 2010 - 08:28 AM

#21

Well, as long as folks are posting up their experiences... here's mine.

My 'gun' is almost exactly like the one rd540 showed. I used it on an old carb during my Hodaka 250SL resurrection. Did a nice-enough job.

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For carbs, it doesn't really do anything on the varnish, but it DID leave a nice finish. Not as rough as beadblasting nor sandblasting. And it washes off with water! That's a real plus for on-bike work without major disassembly.

Kirk

  • Rd540

Posted 03 November 2010 - 02:20 PM

#22

Dood...details on that gun! You ran the pickup tube into the gun itself? Looks nice and compact!


Bought that gun at Tractor supply about a month ago. It is called the Cyclone becuase the holes in the nozzle are supposed to create more pressure. I just taped one hole with masking tape and ziptied a piece of fuel line to the handle of the gun and stuck it in the other hole. After blasting, I just cut the zip tie and pulled the hose and tape off the gun then toss it in the tool box.

KDN post a pic of the Hodaka

  • 140rider

Posted 03 November 2010 - 03:26 PM

#23

I was looking around on HF and saw this- http://www.harborfre...-gun-47016.html

I thought it looked like it may do good for soda blasting, has anyone tried this or think it will work?

  • Smacaroni

Posted 04 November 2010 - 04:32 AM

#24

I really, really doubt it. That's a paint gun. While baking soda particles are small, they're not that small and are not fluid. If it did work at first, I'd expect that it would clog pretty quick.

The media blaster is only $13 more.
http://www.harborfre...-kit-37025.html

  • Jeekinz

Posted 04 November 2010 - 06:08 AM

#25

I was looking around on HF and saw this- http://www.harborfre...-gun-47016.html

I thought it looked like it may do good for soda blasting, has anyone tried this or think it will work?


That definately won't do it.

You need to build something like what RD540 made or the one I built which is similar to this:

Link: http://www.aircooled...p/soda_blaster/

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  • MotoGuido

Posted 04 November 2010 - 06:28 PM

#26

I'm gonna take some parts over to my friend's house tomorrow and hit them with some soda. He's got the harbor freight media blaster. I'll post some pics of how they turn out. I'm planning not to use the "food grade" soda however.

  • Smacaroni

Posted 05 November 2010 - 03:34 AM

#27

I think that's what most people would use unless they do large enough volumes to justify buying 5lbs or more regularly. It's all Sodium Bicarbonate anyway.
Just make sure you get soda and not powder. Baking powder is 1/2 baking soda and modifying agents like cream of tartar.

  • Jeekinz

Posted 05 November 2010 - 04:54 AM

#28

I decidced to pick up a 50# bag of blasting soda since I'm going to need it for all the aluminum on the bike I'm restoring. Harbor Freight has 50# bags for $33, and that little blower is down to $3.

  • Smacaroni

Posted 05 November 2010 - 06:24 AM

#29

I picked up a blow gun and quick-connect this a.m. for $7 and a $1 pound of baking soda. I'm pretty sure I've got 1/4" hose laying around.
Gonna give it a shot over the weekend instead of holding out till I get around to buying the $27 media blaster.
Next I need to find my dust masks.

  • Jeekinz

Posted 05 November 2010 - 06:56 AM

#30

I ditch that bin I was using and just blow the crap out in my parking lot. Less mess....for me anyway.

  • Smacaroni

Posted 05 November 2010 - 07:08 AM

#31

Just dump a bucket or two of water where you were working it should rinse off pretty easy.

  • Jeekinz

Posted 05 November 2010 - 11:14 AM

#32

Messed around with an engine today. Right out of the frame I cleaned it in the parts wash (mineral spirits), then sprayed it with Gunk engine cleaner and rinsed. I used the remainder of the food grade soda and Borax. They both actually worked pretty good on the cases! :excuseme: This is only the initial cleaning, the engine will get disassembled with fresh paint on the cylinder like from the factory, and refinished hardware. You can see where I ran out of medium on the bottom.

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Here's my blaster. I hold the gun in one hand and the box in the other shaking it around if there's lumps.

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  • MotoGuido

Posted 08 November 2010 - 02:56 PM

#33

^holy crap is that residue or did the borax bleach it!?

  • Jeekinz

Posted 08 November 2010 - 06:40 PM

#34

^holy crap is that residue or did the borax bleach it!?


Bleach what? There's powder residue on the the blaster, the engine is just clean. :p

  • MotoGuido

Posted 09 November 2010 - 02:32 PM

#35

Bleach what? There's powder residue on the the blaster, the engine is just clean. :thumbsup:


borax is a bleaching agent. and I have two clean motors sitting in my garage and they don't look like that... :p

looks like severly oxidized aluminum like when you get muratic acid (used to clean chrome) on billet aluminum wheels. it turns white like that. happened all the time at the detail shop I worked at. then I'd have to break out all my cotton aluminum polishing buffs, wet sand paper, etc.

I'm guessing that you're saying it's the exposure of the pictures that's making it look that way..?

  • Jeekinz

Posted 09 November 2010 - 06:06 PM

#36

Nah man. The cases look brand new, the white balance on my camera was off.

  • MotoGuido

Posted 09 December 2010 - 09:35 PM

#37

Where did you get all those pugs? I'm gonna attempt this maybe next week with my buddy's harbor freight media blaster.

  • Jeekinz

Posted 10 December 2010 - 01:58 PM

#38

I just save those plastic plugs whenever I can, they are too useful. You can use freezeout plugs and some tape or silicone. I had to silicone the exhaust plug.

  • MindBlower

Posted 11 December 2010 - 12:34 PM

#39

Is this safe to do on a motor that doesn't need to be rebuilt (tight and good gaskets).
I didn't know I was going to get all obsessive with my rebuild so the motor just got a quick repaint after rebuild.
Now it looks cruddy in comparison, but I don't want to mess gaskets up.
??????????????

  • Jeekinz

Posted 13 January 2011 - 06:11 AM

#40

Gave mine a test run.
Caliper off an 89 kx, soda doesnt get into the deep oxidizing, might need to add some fine glass media to remove it. Looks 10x better then before.

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I did the front caliper to my 94 KX yesterday. I had some black spots too. What I did was first clean the caliper chemically (simple green, mineral spirits, brake clean) only using a nylon brush except for bad areas. That's when you can wourk out those spots. The wire brush I use is the size of a toothbrush, you can get them at Lowes or a welding supply shop. After you have it cleaned you can soda blast. That will give it a clean but dull look. So I found that going over the part lightly with another clean wire brush gives it a little shine and deepens the color a bit. Go real light like your just buffing the finish.

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This side was where alot of the oxidation was. There's still maybe 5% residual left, but it's alot better than what it was.

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