2011 Suspension set-up.


10 replies to this topic
  • thommo420

Posted October 16, 2010 - 08:32 PM

#1

Hey guys. So ive got the 2011 KX 250F and its been ridden in and all that, but now it seems as though the Suspension has softened up a fair bit. Just after some info or technical advise on what i can play around with to try get it riding a bit better.

I weigh around 168lbs, Rider sag is "98mm & free sag is 36mm" these are stock settings that i havn't really played with. Anyways it seems as though now the suspension has been worn in the bike just wants to dive in the front making you feel every little bump or rut, rather then riding straight over the top of them. Its also loosing alot of traction out of corners and in the loose stuff.

So just after some setup or tech tips you guys might have for the 2011?.. Other than this little issue its an awsomne bike and couldnt be happier with it.

Thanks

  • zix07

Posted October 16, 2010 - 08:45 PM

#2

You know that blue bolt on the top of the right fork....turn it a click or two towards the hard setting. Then ride it if it feels likes its still to soft then adjust from there. Thats the point of the SFF system from showa, it allows you to control the way the front of the bike will act.

  • thommo420

Posted October 16, 2010 - 11:45 PM

#3

Yeah the pre-load bolt... i will try that and go from there. Also does anyone know if the springs are right for my weight, 168lbs?

Cheers.

  • xplant

Posted October 17, 2010 - 04:59 AM

#4

...and for the non-believers:

after engine break-in, my priority was suspension setup. Comp and rebound were easy enough, but being about 165-8ish I found myself putting a wrench on the spring side. That was just a bit easier than looking up the spring chart, ordering two new springs, taking the front end apart, servicing all fliuds, and starting over.

Instead - click....click.....brrraaap. I found my new favorite suspension tip and trick.

Thom - don't forget, the reason that the suspension is getting softer is because all of those mating surfaces are wearing-in. Don't forget to change that fliud. You'll be amazed at how nasty it gets in the first few hours of break-in. The reason it's dark is because it's full of suspended metal particles - yuk.

  • jim_wr250f

Posted November 24, 2010 - 12:39 AM

#5

ive had my 11 for 3 months now and only adjusted the clickers about 1 harder on everything. today i had a play with the SFF preload adjuster but hvent had a chance to ride yet. I read in the book that the standard setting is 22 clicks out, and mine was set from factory at 36 :p will more clicks out make the front ride higher or lower? and will more clicks out make it steer easier in corners and more stability on braking bumps or the opposite?

also can someone help me with how to measure the rear preload? i understand the whole measure with the bike on stand and then with the rider on a split the difference but what exact to points do i measure from? i read on the mxa site that kawi recomends 100-104 its not covered in the kawi manual or how to measure it.

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  • freds4

Posted November 24, 2010 - 07:26 PM

#6

I weigh about 163lbs and I cranked my fork preload 5 clicks tighter after break-in and it was too harsh; ended up backing it off 2, so +3 is working great for me right now. I also went 6 clicks out on compression (7 is stock).
As far as traction in the rear, I went 11 clicks out on the rebound in the rear (10 is stock) and noticed a significant difference.
I am running 100mm of sag, everything else is stock.

  • don46

Posted November 26, 2010 - 01:14 PM

#7

also can someone help me with how to measure the rear preload? i understand the whole measure with the bike on stand and then with the rider on a split the difference but what exact to points do i measure from? i read on the mxa site that kawi recomends 100-104 its not covered in the kawi manual or how to measure it.

Not sure what this split the difference stuff is, when you set the sag and of course assuming you have the right spring, measure free sag should be about 30mm then measure your sag with rider on it should be about 100mm. if you get your 100mm and you have 50mm free sag then the spring is to stiff, if you get your 100mm and have 10mm free sag get a stiffer spring

  • chasemotox63

Posted November 26, 2010 - 01:56 PM

#8

also can someone help me with how to measure the rear preload? i understand the whole measure with the bike on stand and then with the rider on a split the difference but what exact to points do i measure from? i read on the mxa site that kawi recomends 100-104 its not covered in the kawi manual or how to measure it.


It doesn't matter where you measure from as long as you are consistent on where you measure both times. I usually measure from inside the axel nut to the edge of the rear fender. Make sure all of your gear is on when measuring as well.

  • thommo420

Posted November 26, 2010 - 02:13 PM

#9

Anyone know the spring rates for the 2011 yet?

  • jim_wr250f

Posted November 26, 2010 - 03:32 PM

#10

its okay i read somewhere that it was from the axle to a point straight up, i was confused because i thought it was from any point on the swingarm straight up which is why i was gettin funny measurement. cheers.

  • DMauro

Posted November 26, 2010 - 04:14 PM

#11

the best way to measure pre load is to take shock off losen all the way mesaure spring then tighten up to 5mm of pre load on spring, then check your sag. from axel to seat bolt! you should be in the ball park if the spring rate is good for you WT.





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