My 02 YZ 426F project


36 replies to this topic
  • cowboyona426

Posted November 02, 2010 - 04:36 PM

#21

If anyone can help with a cross reference it would be much appreciated. 55mm OD 25mm ID 15mm thickness, sealed on one side.

  • cowboyona426

Posted November 03, 2010 - 04:14 PM

#22

If anyone can help with a cross reference it would be much appreciated. 55mm OD 25mm ID 15mm thickness, sealed on one side.

Anyone???

  • gscx

Posted November 03, 2010 - 04:47 PM

#23

A local bearing shop should be able to order it for you.

  • cowboyona426

Posted November 04, 2010 - 05:57 PM

#24

A local bearing shop should be able to order it for you.

True, if I knew what the cross reference was.

  • grayracer513

Posted November 04, 2010 - 10:05 PM

#25

A local bearing shop should be able to use the dimensions you have to cross it as long as it's not a proprietary size.

  • cowboyona426

Posted November 05, 2010 - 04:59 PM

#26

Next question fellas, getting old, hard grease out of the linkage bearings. I know I could remove the sleeves and pull the needles out and wipe out all the grease, but I don't really want to go there if I don't have to and risk losing some of the needles (plus they can be a real pain to get back in there). Any other suggestions?

  • dubee

Posted November 10, 2010 - 07:10 AM

#27

Doin good! im in the same exact boat as you with same year and bike.. i should be splittin the cases soon (first time for me too) Please keep us updated!! I will fill you in on my adventure as i proceed.

So you are replacing rod, main, and countershaft bearings only?

Also are you replacing rings when you assembly? Im just tryin to see what all i need to replace while i got it tore down.

Thanks, dubee

  • cowboyona426

Posted November 10, 2010 - 07:17 AM

#28

I took the cases in to the local shop, they threw them in their parts washer for me to clean everything real good and I went over all the bearings with the parts guy. The only bearings I didn't end up replacing are one main bearing, a proprietary bearing on the main axle, and the roller bearing on the countershaft.
I measured the ring tolerances on this bike and they were all within spec so I'm not replacing anything in the top end. Valves were in spec and no leaks in the seats so they are being left alone as well.

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  • grayracer513

Posted November 10, 2010 - 07:43 AM

#29

Be sure to replace the left side main shaft bearing (the blind one). That's the one that will fail.

  • cowboyona426

Posted November 10, 2010 - 01:42 PM

#30

Be sure to replace the left side main shaft bearing (the blind one). That's the one that will fail.

That one was locked up tight and did get replaced.

  • dubee

Posted November 11, 2010 - 12:44 PM

#31

but arent you takin kinda of a big risk not replacing the other bearing?

  • 01Y

Posted November 11, 2010 - 01:56 PM

#32

Funny, I bought one just 2 months ago that had the same problem. The guy did the Dr. D oil block off kit, minus the oil level view window, and ran it out of oil. I picked it up for $700 with full exhaust, hot cams, and street title and kit on it. Also has a freshly powder coated frame.

Bad Crank and bearings, oil pump was fine. I restored the normal oil tank and pump function. I just started for the first time after the rebuild on Sunday. Did the rebuild with my friend, neither of us had done one before, but he's a ME.

Some pics:

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I got a box full of stock parts(cams plastics, exhaust, etc.) I think it was a pretty good deal considering I could have bought a running one that needed the same work anyway.

  • cowboyona426

Posted November 15, 2010 - 08:37 AM

#33

but arent you takin kinda of a big risk not replacing the other bearing?

Somewhat, but main bearings on these bikes don't often fail and the one I didn't replace gives no indication that it needs to be replaced. Had I not been whooped by a cold this weekend, I'd probably have a running bike right now.

  • cowboyona426

Posted November 22, 2010 - 08:01 AM

#34

Okay guys, need some input. I got off my butt and hit the garage yesterday. Removed the trans, made sure all the bearings were fully seated, put red loc-tite on all the bearing retainer screws/bolts. Reinstall trans, pulled the crank into the left case, apply sealant, slide the case halves together. Everything is going great at this point! The cases slid together really nice until they were about 3/16" apart (guessing here, didn't measure it). I coax the 2 halves together, everything is still fine. Install 2 screws in the cases and the crank binds up again. ***. For grins I went ahead and installed the rest of the case screws, and torqued down the primary drive gear (per grayracer's suggestion). I can't turn the crank by hand, but it will turn with light pressure on a long ratchet. Sounds like its grinding on the right case half still...
I'm wondering if maybe the crank isn't pressed together quite far enough causing the problem. I don't know what else it might be? Any suggestions???

  • grayracer513

Posted November 22, 2010 - 10:22 AM

#35

You can bolt the cases together dry and empty and measure the distance between the bearings (depending on what tools you have for this, you might find it easier to measure from outside to outside, then subtract the width of the two bearings). Then you can compare that to the width of the crank.

If you think the crank rubs one side or other, you can install the crank in one case at a time and try to see if there's any interference.

  • cowboyona426

Posted November 22, 2010 - 03:12 PM

#36

You can bolt the cases together dry and empty and measure the distance between the bearings (depending on what tools you have for this, you might find it easier to measure from outside to outside, then subtract the width of the two bearings). Then you can compare that to the width of the crank.

If you think the crank rubs one side or other, you can install the crank in one case at a time and try to see if there's any interference.

I was hoping the rubbing was caused by the crank not being pulled into the left case all the way the last time, so I rigged up a puller this go-round in the hopes that it would solve the problem. I'm going to talk to the shop that did the crank work tomorrow (closed today) to see if they have any insight. Not real happy with how this is going, and the next 2 days its supposed to be COLD and I'm not highly motivated to work in the garage in when the outside temp is -20°F even though I do have a wood stove out there.

  • cowboyona426

Posted September 07, 2011 - 08:48 AM

#37

Update...
This thing is still not done. I broke my back in a vehicle accident in April so I was laid up for a while. The back is healed now and I got to looking things over again... when the shop rebuilt the crank the lower rod pin wasn't pressed in center. It was sticking out enough to rub on the bearing, which is why it was locking up with the cases bolted together. I took it back to the shop and they corrected the problem, picking the crank back up today.





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