First impression on my 2010


38 replies to this topic
  • todds924

Posted October 09, 2010 - 07:56 PM

#1

So I raced out here at Glen Helen today. 3 motos.....did 2 on my 08 and one on my 10. Same identical lap times!.....My first impression was that the new bike is very smooth,,,handles nice.....suspension is waaaaaay to soft.....but i'm a big guy...235-240lbs
its very very annoying on / off throttle...like a light switch..very jerky.
I do have the tuner but I wanted to try it in a "stock" state first....
I raced the 08 first moto...the 10 second moto..compared lap times and went with the 08 for the final one...based on suspension alone..< Enzo> did my 08..and its stiff....probably to stiff....for the braking bumps and acceleration bumps but its great on the big jumps..and whoops.
I dont want to go that way on the new bike.
anyway..........I guess the 10 can only get better right? Once its set up?
oh yeah......it was very hard to launch on the concrete start pad...compared to my 08 and it felt very "flat" on the top end. My 08's stronger.....Ported head....06 cams and cdi...Pro circuit pipe..Cp Piston...???

  • aja342

Posted October 09, 2010 - 11:53 PM

#2

Sounds like the '10 is going to be faster for you when you get it set up how you want it

  • honda907

Posted October 10, 2010 - 04:24 PM

#3

I did the same thing you are doing all year. You can't make the 10 a 09, or in your case an 08. Park it and ride the 10. I rode mine very little this year 'cause I thought that the 09 handled better and had better power characteristics. About a month ago(maybe 5 weeks ago) I couldn't take both bikes. By the end of the weekend, I was sold on the 10 and decided to get another 2010 the following Monday. Yes I went faster, not much, but I beat some stacked competition (one class entrant won at LL this year). The bike corners a little different, and takes the ruts much better. The starts? Still working on that. I used to pull every holeshot on the 09, but I can't say that on the 10. Working on that problem. It is not a power problem as much as a clutch engagement problem.

The bike handles different, rides different, and has different power. Once you decide to forget making the 10 an 08, you will like it. Your heavy for stock suspension I believe. The off idle lurch problem is annoying in the pits, but on a MX track it is no problem.

  • todds924

Posted October 10, 2010 - 05:14 PM

#4

I did the same thing you are doing all year. You can't make the 10 a 09, or in your case an 08. Park it and ride the 10. I rode mine very little this year 'cause I thought that the 09 handled better and had better power characteristics. About a month ago(maybe 5 weeks ago) I couldn't take both bikes. By the end of the weekend, I was sold on the 10 and decided to get another 2010 the following Monday. Yes I went faster, not much, but I beat some stacked competition (one class entrant won at LL this year). The bike corners a little different, and takes the ruts much better. The starts? Still working on that. I used to pull every holeshot on the 09, but I can't say that on the 10. Working on that problem. It is not a power problem as much as a clutch engagement problem.

The bike handles different, rides different, and has different power. Once you decide to forget making the 10 an 08, you will like it. Your heavy for stock suspension I believe. The off idle lurch problem is annoying in the pits, but on a MX track it is no problem.

I know I will love it once its set up proper...thats for sure. Really, its just the off idle LURCH that really bothers me....The starts are exactly a clutch engagement problem....its just "different"? All it takes is practice .

  • gfmoto

Posted October 10, 2010 - 10:02 PM

#5

just change the map I like the Jay marmont map cures the herky jerkys and lets it pull harder on top. I find the 10 to the fastest bike I've ever ridden off concrete starts, I have 5 holeshots, and two second place starts in 8 motos. I can wheelie off the concrete no problem hooking up.

  • honda907

Posted October 11, 2010 - 02:40 PM

#6

just change the map I like the Jay marmont map cures the herky jerkys and lets it pull harder on top. I find the 10 to the fastest bike I've ever ridden off concrete starts, I have 5 holeshots, and two second place starts in 8 motos. I can wheelie off the concrete no problem hooking up.

I will try that map. I took both bikes out to practice yesterday, and I got the new bike working good. I go about 2 seconds a lap better. Tried the original map and that hit way too hard for me (an old guy) Went back to the MXA map, but will try the Marmount map. I do not have a pipe(after 7K, I am not buying a 1k pipe), so does that Marmount pipe work with the stock pipe?

  • grayracer513

Posted October 11, 2010 - 03:52 PM

#7

after 7K, I am not buying a 1k pipe

How about a $275 pipe that does everything the $800 systems do?

http://mrd-racing.com/page05.html

  • honda907

Posted October 11, 2010 - 04:07 PM

#8

How about a $275 pipe that does everything the $800 systems do?

http://mrd-racing.com/page05.html


For the money of new bikes, I better not need a pipe to race a bike!!!!

  • YamaLink

Posted October 11, 2010 - 05:33 PM

#9

Nice to see how the lap times compare when the bike is properly sprung.....and you get more seat time.

Then compare those to the other mods intended.

  • gfmoto

Posted October 11, 2010 - 07:18 PM

#10

try new batteries the tuner is very sensitive to that, also try using it with the bike running. The MRD pipe is worth every penny!

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • todds924

Posted October 11, 2010 - 07:35 PM

#11

try new batteries the tuner is very sensitive to that, also try using it with the bike running. The MRD pipe is worth every penny!

Gotcha!..workin like a champ!

  • grayracer513

Posted October 11, 2010 - 07:49 PM

#12

For the money of new bikes, I better not need a pipe to race a bike!!!!

You don't. You can race any modern MX bike worth buying right out of the box. You can even race an '08 with the stock pipe, as miserable as they were. But you can't name one that can't be improved at least a little with the right pipe, either.

  • aja342

Posted October 11, 2010 - 08:51 PM

#13

Does anyone have a pic of the MRD on a '10 YZ450f?

  • MRD RACING

Posted October 13, 2010 - 07:26 PM

#14

Posted Image

  • Mick T

Posted October 13, 2010 - 07:33 PM

#15

Posted Image


I'd buy that pipe just for the improved looks alone.

  • HRC

Posted October 13, 2010 - 11:35 PM

#16

Posted Image


It´s looking good and make good powergains.....BUT ! Have MRD sorted out the decibel problems ??? Last time I checked MRD was not a 94db pipe !

And that can be a big problem on some tracks !

  • MRD RACING

Posted October 14, 2010 - 11:07 AM

#17

It´s looking good and make good powergains.....BUT ! Have MRD sorted out the decibel problems ??? Last time I checked MRD was not a 94db pipe !

And that can be a big problem on some tracks !


there is a new sound test called the 2 meter max sound test that proves what I have been trying to tell people for years , it doesnt matter what a pipe checks at 4500 rpm , if its an open pipe it is gonig to be just as loud as a pipe that checks higher using the out dated 20" test , the 94db pipes that are being raced here in the AMA races are just as loud at full throttle as my 99db pipes , who cares if a pipe idles quiet ? :p this is why nobody has any problem running my pipes at the tracks over here because all the bikes sound about the same noise level no mater what they would check at 20" 4500rpm, I bet you would rather listen to one of my pipes on a KX 450F over the stock 96 db pipe, the 20" test is a farse , its usless in finding the real world noise level on these bikes , that is why the FIM is using the 2 meter max test now , this test shows you how loud a bike really is :smirk:

Edited by DH367, October 14, 2010 - 11:25 AM.


  • todds924

Posted October 14, 2010 - 09:12 PM

#18

How about a $275 pipe that does everything the $800 systems do?

http://mrd-racing.com/page05.html

That a full system or slip on?

  • Swapper265

Posted October 15, 2010 - 03:38 AM

#19

there is a new sound test called the 2 meter max sound test that proves what I have been trying to tell people for years , it doesnt matter what a pipe checks at 4500 rpm , if its an open pipe it is gonig to be just as loud as a pipe that checks higher using the out dated 20" test , the 94db pipes that are being raced here in the AMA races are just as loud at full throttle as my 99db pipes , who cares if a pipe idles quiet ? :p this is why nobody has any problem running my pipes at the tracks over here because all the bikes sound about the same noise level no mater what they would check at 20" 4500rpm, I bet you would rather listen to one of my pipes on a KX 450F over the stock 96 db pipe, the 20" test is a farse , its usless in finding the real world noise level on these bikes , that is why the FIM is using the 2 meter max test now , this test shows you how loud a bike really is :smirk:


I am completely with you there. The standard pipes, as you gave the prime example, are ridiculously loud at full throttle. No doubt your pipes pass the new testing requirements. I would like your opinion though on the new testing standards, as there are so many varying factors that affect results, from temperature, humidity levels to overcast skies, and echoing off surrounding structures. Do you see the new testing being successful? It seems a very GREY area of any motorsport.

  • grayracer513

Posted October 15, 2010 - 06:47 AM

#20

That a full system or slip on?

Slip-on. Dave states that his testing shows no reason to replace the factory header.





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