Toggle ThumperTalk Messages
Enter to DAILY to win MXGP2!
MXGP 2 is now available on the PC, Xbox One and PS4. In celebration of the game's release, Racing Game Central is giving away digital copies for the Xbox One, PS4 and PC. CLICK HERE TO ENTER
SSR pitbike 125 idle issue...
Posted September 25, 2010 - 06:16 PM
Posted September 26, 2010 - 04:16 AM
Posted September 26, 2010 - 04:24 AM
Posted September 26, 2010 - 04:20 PM
Posted September 26, 2010 - 04:21 PM
also the screw on the right hand side of the carb is your idle screw it'll raise and lower your slide(in raises idle out lowers idle) pop the filter off and make shure it isnt closing all the way
I checked and it is not close to being closed (i would say about 1/4 open, with no throttle). Is that bad?
Posted September 26, 2010 - 10:48 PM
Here is the location of the fuel mixture screw, this is the screw eavery meant.
You were opening the float bowl drain screw.
LOL thankyou. I thought that was the drain screw. LOL
What way is what. Clockwise is lean, counter clockwise is rich? Or is it the other way around?
And is there an easier way to get to that screw? Its locations is really hard to get to.
Edited by snowman_audio, September 27, 2010 - 12:39 AM.
Posted September 27, 2010 - 08:29 AM
Posted September 27, 2010 - 12:04 PM
is that a 26mm carb? if so its the same one i had and it's a peice of you know what. Go to pitsterpro and buy thier VM22 carb and it will bolt right on with no adjustents other than probably the idle. Let me know if that works for you. it's only like $35-50 buck i think.
This is the stock carb for the SSR 125 bike. How do i check what carb it is?
Posted September 27, 2010 - 12:56 PM
Posted September 27, 2010 - 02:22 PM
Posted September 28, 2010 - 01:38 PM
Try starting out at 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 turns OUT from seated, and see what the bike does. Make your adjustments in 1/4-turn increments to see if it improves. If you get to the point where the fuel screw is 3 turns OUT from seated, you need a bigger pilot jet. You run the risk of losing the screw that many turns out. On the other hand, if you get be within a 1/2 turn OUT from being seated, you might want to go to a smaller pilot jet.
Ok i this out and found the it was 4 or 5 full turns out, so i reseated and started 1 1/2. I am not sure if this was the problem or not. Nothing really changed.
The bike kicks everytime and will stay running when the choke is on fully, but whenever i turn the choke off it will sputter and cut off (sounds like it is not getting enough gas to stay idling)
Where should the idler screw be started at (how many turns out) or an i barking up the wring tree?
Thanks again everyone for all the help.
Posted September 28, 2010 - 02:30 PM
- snowman_audio likes this
- Like This
Posted September 28, 2010 - 03:35 PM
The pilot jet circuit in the carb is clogged or dirty, if the bike only runs with the choke on. You need to disassemble it completely, use contact cleaner and compressed air to flush out and clean all the passageways in the carb. Make sure you can see through the pilot and main jets before you put them back in place. Clean the air filter and make sure it is properly oiled and dry before using.
You are a genius!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That is what was wrong with it!!!!!!!! It runs like a champ. Thank you so much!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Posted April 26, 2016 - 02:58 PM
Please go through these steps:
Oil your air filter:
http://tboltusa.com/...ning and Oiling
Engine and Carb quick check list:
http://tboltusa.com/...uick check list
To Check Valve lash (Tappet adjustment):
http://tboltusa.com/...nce, and Timing
http://tboltusa.com/...uide to Jetting
Most of the time you can tune new bikes in with the needle and brass screw adjustments and not need to change jets
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users