1984 TT600 Build
Posted 12 October 2011 - 02:01 PM
Posted 12 October 2011 - 02:33 PM
Posted 19 October 2011 - 06:27 AM
The kit came with 3 leaner jets for the primary carb and drill bits to richen the secondary carb. There are a bunch of notes and some shims for the needles too.
I will start with stock needle positions and the leaner main jet for the primary carb...hopefully it all works out.
Thesyk- did you buy a bigger nipple jet or did you drill one out? If bought, were did you get it?
Posted 19 October 2011 - 09:45 AM
It literally took me hours to get the sync right once I determined that I had the jetting right. And once you can rev all the way through, rough or not, you're close. Then it's a matter of getting the sync dialed in.
Posted 19 October 2011 - 07:23 PM
Thesyk -Hmmm...I'm starting to think this whole thing is just like your issue. can you take a couple of minutes and clarify what you mean by bog? I'm wondering if its the same feeling as I get with my "rev wall". did you have any tricks for speeding up the sync process?
For whatever reason I was thinking that this was a jet the primary carb, then jet the secondary, then sync system. IT appears that this is incorrect thinking. I have to jet the primary till it runs right down low-mid range then try to sync the secondary till it works. I know I can richen the secondary with drill bits but I hope I don't have to.
Posted 19 October 2011 - 08:47 PM
Drop your Main down to 125 so it's running lean (for the sake of experimentation)
Create a fuel IV (like what people in hospitals are attached to), hang it on your handlebar and connect it to the carb. This way you aren't dealing with having to work around your gas tank. I cut the bottom off an Aquafina bottle, hung it upside down, drilled a hole through the cap for a small hose to fit in and taped it to a wire hanger. It literally looks like your bike is on a IV!
Connect your IV to the carb, add a little fuel and cover with a rag so the fuel doesn't slosh around when you kick the bike to start it.
Loosen the sync screw lock nut
Start the bike
Turn the sync screw ALL the way in and rev the bike.
Turn the screw back out 1/4 of it's length and rev it.
Turn it another 1/4 and repeat.
Do this until you you notice that the rev gets clean since you are adjusting the timing for when the secondary carb is engaging. If and when you start to notice that you have a low end and a high end rev (even if it sounds like crap overall) the next step is dialing in the sync so that the PERFECT amount of fuel is delivered at the appropriate time from BOTH carbs when needed.
Let me know if this is at all confusing...
Posted 23 October 2011 - 02:26 PM
Posted 23 October 2011 - 06:53 PM
I will try the 120 next, then try to fix the sync. I will clean up the plug to see if I can read it with these new settings. I am also going to try to get a video of the bike hitting this rev wall so that you guys can hear what I mean
I don't think its lean as the choke make no changes.
Posted 25 October 2011 - 06:20 AM
Let me know what you think!
Posted 25 October 2011 - 06:13 PM
That is almost certainly your sync. The fact that you can get the rev as high as you have it means you are pretty well jetted properly. Now you gotta get those two little buggers to work together properly!*It's a very fine balance in getting that second one to start opening at juuuust the right time.
Posted 26 October 2011 - 06:21 AM
Then I will play with the sync. I will also swap the spark plug for a clean one so that I can see what it looks like after I run it.
Posted 26 October 2011 - 08:36 AM
Posted 27 October 2011 - 07:08 AM
that video to me does not sound like the carbs it sounds ignition realated...
When I had my xt600 w/ tt600 engine the only thing remotely like that sound was a hickup when the secondary kicked in ..and it would only hickup 1 time in the transition.
depending how the electronic guage is wired it may be causing interferance. . remember with no load the engine ought to rev out higher with only one carb and it would be popping from the exhaust too..
I would get the multi meter out and check coils, cdi, and stator.. if you have a bad stator I believe I have a stator and flywheel left over from my tt to xt conversion
Posted 27 October 2011 - 08:51 AM
I have tested out all the electrical and its all good.
I have fitted my other CDI and it runs the same.
I'm confident that its jetting as the main jet size has changed the amount of power and the "height" of the rev limit. Also applying a vacuum to the float bowl allows it to rev higher
I should mention that I pulled the plug last night and its white so I have to eith go back up one jet size, increase the jet size on the secondary or start playing with the needles.
Posted 27 October 2011 - 09:51 AM
At the RPM you show in the videos, it sounds like the starving for gas. I had the exact same problem with mine as I worked to get that sync dialed in.
Easiest way to do this is to make that IV, and play around with it. You can putt around the neighborhood, stop, adjust, putt, stop, adjust. As long as the engine is hot, you're rounding third my friend!
Posted 27 October 2011 - 10:16 AM
PS- both needles are adjustable. I figured this out the other day. On the secondary, you have to remove the set screw and pull hard to pop it out. You can also tap it out from the top of the slide. It sits in a little carrier
Posted 27 October 2011 - 11:30 AM
Posted 26 March 2012 - 08:30 PM








