running LED lights off of 2010 stator?
Posted September 16, 2010 - 01:23 PM
I had heard that it was a 14v system and not a 12v, is this the case?
If I run a 12V LED light off of it, will it work with a 14V system?
Will a 12V LED light (tail light and headlight) draw too much power away from the fuel injection system?
What fuse should I run?
Going to check the wiring diagram for a + lead, but if someone wants to save me some hassle and can tell me which wire I can run off of, that would be great.
This is a legal requirement where I live and ride, and it would only be used just to show the LEO that the lights do in fact work. If you ride at night you have to have them, but if you get stopped during the day they want to see them working.
I could really use anyones info on this, thank you!
Posted September 16, 2010 - 02:05 PM
IMO, the obvious answer is so that it will generate enough electricity at cranking speeds to create 60 psi or so of fuel pressure. After it starts, the system is probably overkill, but if you have a light sucking away all you cranking current, you may not get too far. Point being that you will need a switch to make this work, if it does.
DC power is from the red lead coming off the regulator/rectifier. It's probably DC V+, but it's not marked, so it could be negative. Normal charging voltage for a 12v DC system is 13-14.5, so I wouldn't be too concerned unless it goes beyond that.
Posted September 16, 2010 - 02:38 PM
So I should tap into the regulator then huh?
I have the wiring diagram and according to it there are 4 wires coming and going from the regulator.
W1 and W2 come from the stator to the regulator
and Red and Black come from the regulator, where black grounds out (I'm assuming onto the engine or frame or the regulator bolts itself) and the red goes to the system.
I guess I'll be tapping into the red wire.
Grey, would you recommend a 3amp fuse then?
I agree with the switch and the guy I bought it from said that it would be a good idea to keep the lights off when your trying to start the bike.
The guy said that UFO makes an LED headlight that is about 70-80$ but I googled for UFO headlight and didn't really find anything. Acerbis makes a real fancy one but I'm looking for a simple setup here, just to stay legal on the trails. If any of you have any suggestions, let me know
I can do a pretty good job on this I think, I need a headlight still (they are out of stock) but when I'm done I think that it would be a great little system that you may actually be able to use at night!
Thanks for the help!
Posted September 16, 2010 - 02:43 PM
Posted September 16, 2010 - 02:51 PM
Posted September 16, 2010 - 11:42 PM
running leds is no problems
you could even use the plug where the power tuner plugs into
some people in australia have done this
Posted September 17, 2010 - 08:39 AM
Well I have no idea how I got the 35watt number. Checking the yammy usa website it's clear that there is 110 watts of juice in this bike.
14 volt / 110W high output generator powers the battery less fuel injection system.
Looks like I can actually put a decent headlight on this bike.
Edited by brentn, September 17, 2010 - 09:14 AM.
Posted September 17, 2010 - 02:58 PM
Posted September 18, 2010 - 05:31 PM
Already mounted up the rear LED tail light (red) to the fender, looks nice and clean. I have the wire going right under the seat, but so far have not wired it up to the wiring harness on the bike.
I need to pick up some watertight connectors, some harness plugs, fuse tube and some wire to do a decent job. I think I'll tuck it in underneath the gas tank behind the frame if I can. Wrap it all up tightly with electrical tape and zip tie it to other wires and/or the frame.
I think I'll stop by the china bike dealer and grab myself a watertight switch for the job, they're under 10$ and should do the job just fine. Switch will basically turn on all lights at once, brake and running light for the rear will be wired as one.
Thanks for the information guys, really appreciate it.
I'll get some picks up tomorrow of the rear light working if everything goes according.
Posted September 18, 2010 - 09:11 PM
I think the ECU is going to be in the way!
Can anyone confirm how deep headlights go into the clamp?
Posted September 19, 2010 - 11:47 PM
I got a cheap headlight for it, but it had fork wraps like you mentioned. I think the final solution for me may be to make or have made a bracket that holds the headlight out far enough to clear the crap in there.
Here are some headlight options on Ebay.
If you are handy, I'm sure you can make some type of mount for a stock WR headlight, maybe even using zip ties.
I have the Polysport MMX light on the 230, it was about 50 bucks from Rockymountainmc.com
It is pretty junky, here are a few of their offerings.
Posted September 20, 2010 - 12:19 AM
Posted September 20, 2010 - 05:41 AM
Their headlight assemblies are expensive, but in the range you were looking at spending for a stock one and they, for the most part, seem to have the details worked out.
Posted December 29, 2010 - 03:07 PM
Posted December 29, 2010 - 03:12 PM
Posted December 31, 2010 - 09:52 PM
Hey did you ever get a headlight? i was considering one, looking at that ebay link you can get one as cheap as 30 bucks, and they look hollow in the back so you could avoid cdi problems with little modification if needed.
I am really curious as well. Did anyone get a light working on the 2010???
Posted January 01, 2011 - 03:06 PM
I never did hook up the rear light though.. never bought a headlight. Kinda gave up on the idea since the ECU blocks installation of a regular headlight.
Posted March 27, 2011 - 05:11 PM
Here is the ground. Probably not the best place to put it, but it's fairly solid and is away from the heat of the exhaust.
Here is the fuse box I used, found it at an auto parts store and uses standard car fuses. I soldered everything except for the ground ring, so it should hold up well. I tried to route the wire where it wouldn't be seen, and where it wouldn't get pinched or burned. Only issue I have is if I want to take the sub frame off, I will have to cut the wire. At that time I'll buy a harness connector and tie that in for future disconnections. The connection is made to the optional connector for the tuner, I burned off the plastic on the red lead and soldered my trailtech and the light onto the same wire.
Finally the finished product, nice and bright. The light had two leads, one for brake and one for always on, so I soldered those together to get the whole grid to work on the light.
Was worth the time. Now I just need a headlight. I'm kinda nervous about running another device off the tuner wire though, not to sure if that's a good idea.
Posted March 27, 2011 - 07:51 PM
Posted March 27, 2011 - 10:34 PM
They have a bunch of cool videos showing how bad they beat them up like dragging them behind a truck and shooting them, so they're pretty tough and they're low draw.
Just my 2 cents
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