WR426 or DRZ400
Posted June 25, 2003 - 05:18 AM
Posted June 25, 2003 - 06:47 AM
Posted June 25, 2003 - 06:49 AM
Posted June 25, 2003 - 07:00 AM
Posted June 25, 2003 - 07:07 AM
also, If you live in California, the WR426F is also green sticker.
Posted June 25, 2003 - 07:12 AM
Posted June 25, 2003 - 08:04 AM
Posted June 25, 2003 - 01:05 PM
The wr is easier to ride at "high speed" but harder at "trail speed" .
And the drz is easier to ride at "trail speed" and bla bla bla ... again .
It all depends of your objective(s).
Both are great bike but ...
I had the same choice to do, and I don't regret the blue
Posted June 25, 2003 - 02:18 PM
Posted June 25, 2003 - 02:33 PM
The issue with the WR426 is that it comes corked up from the factory. When you uncork it and do all the free mods, you have to rejet accordingly or the bike will not run right. Once you dial in the jetting, it is a dream. Starting it is a piece of cake.
My WR426 starts first or second kick everytime. Don't let people scare you about starting the WR426. My 14 year old son starts mine all the time. He loves to start it. In the end get the bike that you will be happy with, either one is good, but, do not be forced into the DRZ because people tell you the WR is hard to start.
The only thing I wish is that I sold that XR650L tub with electric start earlier.
Posted June 25, 2003 - 03:05 PM
I do like the WR, it is a good bike. I'm a little on the heavy side, so no matter what stock suspension (on ANY bike) is gonna be too soft for serious/faster paced riding. I did some suspension work on my DRZ, and it is beautiful now! If I had the WR with worked suspension I'm sure it would be just as good (although I don't like USD forks for trails for some reason, not the same feeling!)
Power wise (WR timed, but uncorked; DRZ is uncorked/piped/jetted perfect) the WR hit harder, which I didn't mind where the traction was good and the terrain was open, but I don't get that too often around here. DRZ powerband is super wide and easy to use, lugs or winds out easily. Overall acceleration (drag race pavement) was close, ended up tied in wins. Starting was easy on the WR, as long as it didn't tip over, then it took either of us 6-10 kicks. I love e-start, wouldn't give it up for anything!
The wieght factor is tricky. DRZ seems a lot lighter/more flickable in the rocks, I think mostly because of lower seat height/center of gravity. WR handle's well though in the more opened up terrain (again, didn't get to try that out much around here.)
Overall, I like the WR for more open terrain where you can open the bike up all the time. But when at my regular trails where I can barely get into 2nd gear for 15 miles, I'd rather have my DRZ- I don't get worn out in the tighter stuff after an hour or so, can ride all day without a break!
Good luck, hope I made sense.
Posted June 25, 2003 - 03:18 PM
Posted June 25, 2003 - 05:06 PM
OOPs, I meant to type 12 to 1 compression
live in California, the WR426F is also green sticker.
Well, its actually a smidge higher at 12.5:1 and requires 95 octane.
Posted June 25, 2003 - 05:09 PM
...BUT I agree that the WR FEELS heavier in the twisty tight stuff, but the suspension is better than my Z. Back and forth bla bla. And the WR has better feeling brakes. The 426 isnt as good ergonomically, but they fixed that for 03 on the 450.
Posted June 26, 2003 - 02:38 AM
Seriously, especially for you guys who have experience with both bikes, how do-able do you think this is? I can do whatever cutting, welding, etc. is necessary just so long as I retain the DRZs-model steering head (street legal frame number). What do ya think?
Next question: Where can I find a DRZs frame?
BTW: 21 to 1 must be the new diesel bike being developed for the military and truck drivers like me? (poor guy makes ONE little typo and we are merciless! What are friends for?!! )
Posted June 26, 2003 - 02:50 AM
But let me tell you , my bike is bone stock except for the snorkel removed and 8 holes drilled in the end of my canadian pipe. I never had any trouble to kickstart it.
It fires 1st 2nd kick with choke when cold, and when I stall, it starts again first kick with the hot start.
I had it upside down a few times , and after cranking it with the decomp a few strokes, then pull hot start and it starts !
Magic button ? I'm sure when you are use to it, it becomes a must. More so on steep incline or very bad position of rider/bike.
You have to make the decision and live with it,
(go blue )
Posted June 26, 2003 - 05:08 AM
My friend does not ride as well, as fast, as aggressively,or in competition as I do. Because of that, why buy a race bike if you don't want or need one. He also just wants to wash it and put it away. He is not into the tinkering like I am. Riding is a hobby for him and an obsession for me.
Even though trail riding is what I do 90% of the time, I have enjoyed everything about my WR. I get really funny looks from folks when I show up to ride a race with a headlight.
Long story short, REALLY examine what you want from the bike. Really examine what you want to do on the bike over the next three years. If your habits are more like my buddys get the DRZ. It is an outstanding ride. If you want to push the edge a little more, if you are going to do some harescrambles or enduros in the next few years or catch a little air now and then then I would really reco the WR.
All that being said; there are tons of people on this board on DRZ's that could and would beat me easily in any kind of race.
Rider ability counts for a hell of a lot more than the color of the bike you ride.
Posted June 26, 2003 - 07:08 AM
Posted June 26, 2003 - 08:37 AM
ps I paid $4400 for my WR 6 months ago.
Posted June 26, 2003 - 01:22 PM