09 yz450f set up tips


8 replies to this topic
  • hoffman910

Posted August 25, 2010 - 07:18 PM

#1

Just switched over from an 08 crf450 n got my first ride on my new yamaha! I ordered a pipe when I bought the bike and I think that will help, but I really had to play around with the suspension to get it to settle into the corners. I went more rebound on the front and less on the rear and out a half turn from stock on the high speed compression and it made a huge difference. I'm at about 3 7/8 on the sag so I didn't wanna go any less, or my thought was to slide my forks down so they're flush in the top clamp, they're about 4mm down when I got it. Anybody have any stories of what they've done?? I like to tinker now and figure out what works best since I'm new to the whole setup... Thanks!!!

  • Steel Panther

Posted August 25, 2010 - 07:43 PM

#2

I think most people slide the forks up in the clamps and run around 100mm or close to 4" of sag. I agree the rear needed a little less rebound for me, other than that i havent really messed with it suspension wise because its working good for me.
Motor wise i went with a fmf 4.1+ megabomb, 4th clip on the needle, 165main jet, and fuel screw 2 1/2-3/4ish out works good for me at around 700ft.
Also, the stock chain is not spectacular.

  • dvn

Posted August 26, 2010 - 04:11 AM

#3

Strange that you guys have had to take out rebound on the shock. I have to run mine around 6 clicks out to slow it down. Are you riding MX only?

  • hoffman910

Posted August 26, 2010 - 05:55 AM

#4

Strange that you guys have had to take out rebound on the shock. I have to run mine around 6 clicks out to slow it down. Are you riding MX only?


That's what I meant, and I do ride Mx only. The back end just felt high and not planted and I couldn't settle into corners and lay it over right. I'm a 5 year Honda rider so I'm used to a whole different chassis and power delivery

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  • YamaLink

Posted August 26, 2010 - 06:07 AM

#5

As for the 100mm sag recommendation, some go a bit less and some go a bit more. Most of my off-road friends who run pro or AA run quite a bit less if they are in a mud race or expect the oil to get super hot over many hours. Their rebound is very slow, too. Their fork tubes are up about 3 or 4mm from factory but always stable at high speeds such as sand washes.

  • hoffman910

Posted August 26, 2010 - 06:08 AM

#6

I think most people slide the forks up in the clamps and run around 100mm or close to 4" of sag. I agree the rear needed a little less rebound for me, other than that i havent really messed with it suspension wise because its working good for me.
Motor wise i went with a fmf 4.1+ megabomb, 4th clip on the needle, 165main jet, and fuel screw 2 1/2-3/4ish out works good for me at around 700ft.
Also, the stock chain is not spectacular.


I had tat on my Honda, just goin with the slip on 4.1 for now though. And I always replace the chain right away since they are basically junk unfortunately

  • grayracer513

Posted August 26, 2010 - 07:01 AM

#7

Strange that you guys have had to take out rebound on the shock.

That was my first reaction. I doubt that you'll like that in the rough.

The '06-'09 YZ450 has a pretty major shortage of initial rebound (initial rebound is how quickly and how much the shock damps rebound as the motion begins) Just setting the clickers tighter won't cure it, even though it helps. The trouble is that the whole damping curve is off, and tightening the rebound increases the initial reaction AND the deep stroke damping as well, so you have to walk a line between the back end skipping around like a spring rabbit and the suspension packing down in the whoops.

You can get it working pretty well, but a very simple reshimming of the rebound stack works absolute wonders with these. The difference in the rear end behavior is so great that it increases front end stability.

  • cowboyona426

Posted August 26, 2010 - 08:12 AM

#8

That was my first reaction. I doubt that you'll like that in the rough.

The '06-'09 YZ450 has a pretty major shortage of initial rebound (initial rebound is how quickly and how much the shock damps rebound as the motion begins) Just setting the clickers tighter won't cure it, even though it helps. The trouble is that the whole damping curve is off, and tightening the rebound increases the initial reaction AND the deep stroke damping as well, so you have to walk a line between the back end skipping around like a spring rabbit and the suspension packing down in the whoops.

You can get it working pretty well, but a very simple reshimming of the rebound stack works absolute wonders with these. The difference in the rear end behavior is so great that it increases front end stability.

I'll vouch for what was posted here. I just got my 06 suspension back from a full revalve and it made a huge difference in how the bike handled. Even without moving the clickers from where the builder set them or even adjusting sag it was head and shoulders better than before the revalve.

  • hoffman910

Posted August 26, 2010 - 08:24 AM

#9

Well I honestly felt like I'd never taken a rutted corner in my life with the stock settings, and I moved everything around some and it made a huge difference, which I've never experienced from just moving the clockers and high speed compression dial before! I just wasn't sure if it was me from the brand switch or the bike!





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