Some suspension??s


5 replies to this topic
  • tech24

Posted August 24, 2010 - 12:09 PM

#1

I've never been the best about maint in the past so I'm gonna try to baby my 2010, and have a few questions for you guys. I've been searching but got tired of that and you guys usually give the best feedback anyhow so.......

1. I'm gonna change fork oil this fall even though its probably ok. I assume every oil change gets new bushings and seal, is this correct?

2. Do you guys recommend changing shock oil every time forks are done also?

3. If I do the shock should I do seal or just change the oil and replace seal as needed? Is there any other shock parts that should be replaced no matter of there condition?

4. Is shock theropy #5 a good choice for both forks and shocks?

5. Has anyone disassembled the 2010 shock? Is it much different than a regual KYB? I've noticed yamaha manuals avoid this subject to some reason, guess they don't want the average joe taking shocks apart.

  • grayracer513

Posted August 24, 2010 - 02:05 PM

#2

If it's the OEM fork oil, I wouldn't give it any more credit than I was forced to. I've seen the original fill come out looking like an emulsion of blubber and snot too many times. You should change it.

The OEM shock oil seems to hold up better, but you can't go wrong by changing it. How often depends on how much and how hard you ride. Once every year for most racers, every couple for most others.

If I were not using 215.VM2.K5 from SMART Performance, Amsoil Shock Therapy #5 would be what I would be using at both ends.

The rear shock is a high pressure gas filled shock, and no, the factory really isn't comfortable with Joe Owner doing his own shocks. The omission of any instructions from the manual is quite deliberate. Bear in mind that there WILL be pressure within the shock even after you release the gas charge. If you haven't done one before, you should get someone who has to show you a few things.

The shock seal need not be disturbed in any way to change the oil, and if it isn't leaking, and you're careful to keep dirt away, there's something to be said for leaving it alone. Not difficult to replace, though.

  • crf450319

Posted August 24, 2010 - 04:35 PM

#3

I changed my fork and shock oil when my bike had 10 hours on it, you'll have the most contaminants in it (from everything being new) and the stock fluids aren't all that great IMO. Since that initial change I've stuck with a 20 hour interval for my susp. fluid changes.

#1) I'll change my bushings out when my bike has 50 hours on it, by then I'll have performed 3 oil changes. Seals aren't a must, but consider how much time you have on them even if they aren't leaking when you pull your forks off the bike. If I had seals with 40 hours on them, I'd change them wether or not they'd been leaking. If you're not planning on replacing the seals, I'd take the inner cartridge out and leave the fork leg and tube together - less stress on the seals.

#2) I change my shock fluid every fork oil change for a couple of reasons. It kinda sucks to have a nice fresh front end, with a sacked out rear. The shock takes a heck of a pounding, get's really hot - try holding your hand on the reservoir after a 10 min. ride and it's got about half the oil that your front end has.

#3) Like Gray says, there's no need to disturb the shock seal if it's not leaking.

#4) I guess Amsoil Shock Therapy is good stuff, I've considered running it.

#5) I've had 5 or 6 shocks apart, but nothing newer than an '09.

Good luck !! :bonk: (my 4 year old wanted to post that)

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  • tech24

Posted August 25, 2010 - 05:06 AM

#4

thanks for the input guys. Sounds like I should get the s1 out of the forks at least. Gonna check out the smart performance stuff. I assume its good for front and rear. I'd like to have someone help me with shock as I've never had one apart, I should've by now but I haven't. Found a few good vids but nothing on the 2010 but I'm sure with a parts diagram and a couple beers for inspiration I can figure it out.

  • grayracer513

Posted August 25, 2010 - 07:50 AM

#5

Gonna check out the smart performance stuff. I assume its good for front and rear.

Use the lighter SPI#3 in the inner cartridge and shock, and the heavier SPI#5 in the outer chamber of the fork.

I'll guess that there is very little significantly different in the 2010 shock other than the orientation of the bladder chamber.

  • tech24

Posted August 25, 2010 - 08:29 AM

#6

Use the lighter SPI#3 in the inner cartridge and shock, and the heavier SPI#5 in the outer chamber of the fork.

I'll guess that there is very little significantly different in the 2010 shock other than the orientation of the bladder chamber.


Thanks probably gonna try this stuff. Looks like the 2010 shock comes apart basically the same as soon as I get some free time (ha) we will see.





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