XR650L Scotts Steering Stabilizer


11 replies to this topic
  • jjast

Posted August 15, 2010 - 08:08 PM

#1

Installed my new damper and thought I would share a few pic's as well as the process I had to go through,

here is before:
Posted ImagePosted ImagePosted Image

First I had to bow the cross bar to make clearance-I used some leather gloves instead of tracking down some cardboard as per the instructions-I would suggest that you check that whatever you use to pry up on the cross bar itself not have a sharp edge-even with the leather gloves it dented my crossbar a little bit where the tire iron was pushing:
Posted Image
Posted Image

the clearance after bending:
Posted Image

the instructions said "the welds on the head tube occasionally come up far enough to interfere with the frame brackets ability to fit properly"- I was hoping that wasn't going to be me...nope...they interfere...grinding needed to be done, this picture is with the bracket on but not seated all the way down so you can see how it would interfere:

Posted Image

next would be to put the triple clamp back on and the instructions said "in rare cases the steering lock could be welded a little high and require some filing", I doubt I will have to worry about that...nope...it interferes... more grinding needed to be done, I ground part of it so the bracket could fit then put the triple clamp back on and found out that the bolt head for the bracket also hit, so I ground some more as well as a small spot on the allen bolt head:
Posted Image

so then I though I was done with the clearance problems...nope...the bracket also hits the spot where the headlight bracket bolts to the triple clamps:
Posted Image

I noticed that the frame bracket is different from the web pic and instructions pic,so maybe they changed it and that is why I am having extra clearance issues-(see pic of instruction/web and my pictures on the bike):
Posted ImagePosted ImagePosted ImagePosted Image

I only had to space the speedo assembly the thickness of one washer and If I didn't minding it just touching I could have left it but had the bolts off anyway:
Posted Image

here is the Scotts bracket sitting on the bike:
Posted Image

I had to re-locate my Vapor and here is a couple pictures of the end result:
Posted ImagePosted Image

also maybe it was just me having a brain freeze but they claim that "Another nice feature about the Scotts damper is that it is transferable between bikes in seconds." so I left the actual damper off the bike when I re-assembled the triple clamps only to find out that the damper on a bike with a low cross bar CANNOT be removed or put on without removing the triple clamps and can only be put on/removed along with the triple clamps, so I had to take off my triple clamps again to mount the damper and put it back together.

to anyone installing one of these I found out that it is very important that you cannot just eyeball the centering of the bracket, there is only a small amount of room between center and off center to where it will bind at full lock in one direction so leave the bracket loose until you find absolute center with the tower pin, I also had to trim the "ears" on my dipstick,
I haven't gone for a ride with it yet so I don't know If It needs a "break in time to seat the valving" or If I will notice a big difference riding the bike rather then it sitting up on the stand as far as damping effect but as it sits on the bike I can only feel a difference of damping effect for the last 6 clicks, it feels the same for the other 16 clicks altho' I'm sure it probably does have effect on the high speed damping, I guess I will just have to ride it and see how it feels and do some adjusting,

P.S. Installation time 45 minutes my @**

  • Old Dog

Posted August 15, 2010 - 09:45 PM

#2

Wow, compared to your install, mine was piece of cake.

Here's a link to my install: http://www.thumperta...ht=scott damper

Btw, once you take it for a few rides, you're gonna appreciate all the work it took to install it. :banana:

  • jjast

Posted August 16, 2010 - 01:52 PM

#3

I remember reading your post but forgot it was there when I wrote mine up and now I know what your were talking about when you mentioned you had to file off the two little bumps on the underside of the top triple clamp where the instrument cluster bracket bolts on,-did the bracket AND allen bolt head hit them or was it one or the other?
does your pin tower bracket look the same as mine? or does it look like the one in the web site/instruction sheet?
also, about how many clicks out from the hardest setting are you usually running yours at?
I didn't find anything about a warranty but there is a registration process, did you find any warranty information?
thanks :banana:

  • Old Dog

Posted August 16, 2010 - 05:56 PM

#4

I remember reading your post but forgot it was there when I wrote mine up and now I know what your were talking about when you mentioned you had to file off the two little bumps on the underside of the top triple clamp where the instrument cluster bracket bolts on,-did the bracket AND allen bolt head hit them or was it one or the other?
does your pin tower bracket look the same as mine? or does it look like the one in the web site/instruction sheet?


I can't quite tell from your pic, but the tower pin on mine sits about the middle of the damper slot (1/2 above the slot bracket, 1/2 below it).

also, about how many clicks out from the hardest setting are you usually running yours at?


I usually run it right in the middle between full hard and full soft (H and S on the damper). If it's really cold out, I'll turn it a little towards the softer side because the oil in the damper seems to thicken up when it's cold.

I didn't find anything about a warranty but there is a registration process, did you find any warranty information?
thanks :banana:


It was three years ago and I honestly can't remember whether I did the warranty registration or not ... I'm gonna say most likely not.

I think my install might have gone a little smoother because I also installed a set of aftermarket bars that have a higher crossbar at the same time, so I didn't have to screw around with that part of it.

Did you have to file down the wings on your dipstick any?:eek:

  • Eric@ScottsPerformance

Posted August 18, 2010 - 10:04 AM

#5

Hi guys-
Im still new to the forum thing so bear with me as I try to hit up some answers-
The XR line of bikes is either one of the easiest or harder bikes to install depending on bike to bike. Honda does not seem to care where the dipstick is so we have noticied them moving fore or aft a couple of mm's which is why some people have to trim the dipstick wings and some do not- same with the welds- if you have a bike with more slag on it than another you will have to grind. As far as removal goes, the XR line of triple clamps have the bars closer to them than any other bike that I know of. If you had an aftermarket triple clamp (which presents other probs on this bike) or a CRF, KX/KXF, RMZ or KTM it literaly take a minute to remove the damper, even with a crossbar. All you would have to do is remove the two damper bolts and MAYBE loosen two of the handlebar bolts to rotate the bars. Same goes with the steering stop and lock- some XR's vary a little and the XRL seems to vary more than a XR600, which uses the exact same mount kit. As far as our picture on the website, it is a fairly generic picture and shows a bolt on mount kit in general, not the exact specific one for your bike. I keep fighting that one with my webmaster but the amount of pictures need to load for every bike takes a ton of room i have been told- Kind of imaginf FMF showing a picture of a Q pipe for every bike in a catalog when in reality they all "look" basically the same.
As far as break in goes I like people to ride with the damper in the stock settings for a little bit so you have a GENERAL idea of what it is going to do for you. If you are riding on the street/freeway at higher speeds I am going to guess that you are going to run the damper a little stiffer, especially if you have agressive dualsport tires on. If you are riding tight trails you are going to run the damper a little looser on low speed and depend on the high speed to help with the sudden hits from rocks, roots, ruts etc...
Ok, if I have not addressed everything let me know and I will do my best to clear it up!
Thanks-
Eric

  • Eric@ScottsPerformance

Posted August 18, 2010 - 10:06 AM

#6

FYI-
I do normally recommend buying different bars with these bikes.. The steel handlebars leaves a lot to be desired and transmits a lot of vibration- a good set of Renthal aluminum bars will help with clearence, be far stronger and will also absorb more vibration.
Thanks-
Eric

  • Coolidge

Posted August 18, 2010 - 03:31 PM

#7

FYI-
I do normally recommend buying different bars with these bikes.. The steel handlebars leaves a lot to be desired and transmits a lot of vibration- a good set of Renthal aluminum bars will help with clearence, be far stronger and will also absorb more vibration.
Thanks-
Eric


+1.
Thanks for all the info Eric

  • jjast

Posted August 21, 2010 - 12:06 AM

#8

Eric@ScottsPerformance-thank you for the information, I did realize that it was probably a generic picture of the kit but it was different from mine and thought maybe that was the reason it had more clearance issues?

Old Dog-I should have been more clear on my questions,-what I was asking as far as the pin tower bracket was actually about where the pinch bolt is on the back-is it square shaped like on mine or barrel shaped like in the pictures from Scott?

as far as what setting you usually run yours at "right in the middle between full hard and full soft (H and S on the damper)" do you mean at about 11 clicks from either stop(full clockwise or counterclockwise of the base control valve knob) or did you install it and just never found it necessary to turn it more then 3 or 4 clicks?

I did have to trim the "ears" -actually I still need to finish doing that.

P.S. I suppose I could probably loosen the bar clamp and rotate the bars to get the damper on/off rather then removing the top triple clamps, I will have to go look at it to make sure.

  • Old Dog

Posted August 21, 2010 - 04:01 PM

#9

Old Dog-I should have been more clear on my questions,-what I was asking as far as the pin tower bracket was actually about where the pinch bolt is on the back-is it square shaped like on mine or barrel shaped like in the pictures from Scott?


It's square shaped like yours.

as far as what setting you usually run yours at "right in the middle between full hard and full soft (H and S on the damper)" do you mean at about 11 clicks from either stop(full clockwise or counterclockwise of the base control valve knob) or did you install it and just never found it necessary to turn it more then 3 or 4 clicks?


My base control valve has a silver dot on it (and a plastic dial over it with an arrow that's lined up with the silver dot). The silver dot (and arrow) sits on H when turned all the way left, and on the S when all the way right. I keep that silver dot at 12 o'clock, which is right in the middle between the H and the S, unless it's really cold, then a turn it a click or two to the right (S).

P.S. I suppose I could probably loosen the bar clamp and rotate the bars to get the damper on/off rather then removing the top triple clamps, I will have to go look at it to make sure.


I've never had the need to remove it yet, but when I eventually take it off to service it I don't think it will be a problem taking it off (no need to remove the top triple clamp on mine). :bonk:

  • jjast

Posted August 21, 2010 - 05:24 PM

#10

Thanks Old Dog:ride:
but I have to say unless there is something different between our two stabilizers? that I am getting 3 full 360 degree revolutions (about 22 clicks) on my base control valve(going past the "S" 3 times from full clockwise) where yours sounds like you have one revolution 1 full 360 degree (about 8 clicks)-or only one complete turn from hard to soft? is that right?

  • Old Dog

Posted August 22, 2010 - 07:35 PM

#11

Thanks Old Dog:ride:
but I have to say unless there is something different between our two stabilizers? that I am getting 3 full 360 degree revolutions (about 22 clicks) on my base control valve(going past the "S" 3 times from full clockwise) where yours sounds like you have one revolution 1 full 360 degree (about 8 clicks)-or only one complete turn from hard to soft? is that right?


I had thought that it was only one 360 ° revolution. I just checked, you're right, it's 3 full 360 ° rotations. I've got it set right in the middle between full H and full S (11 clicks from either side). It's been three years since I installed it, and I've only ever moved it a couple of clicks in either direction since then, so that's why I thought it was just one revolution. :bonk:

  • jjast

Posted September 01, 2010 - 09:55 PM

#12

Finally went for a 90 mile ride on Monday,this was the first time out with the damper, it was just cool enough to go, I have my base control valve set at 7 clicks from the hardest setting at the moment so I am still surprised Old Dog has his set at about 11 clicks out from the hardest setting, I think this is because I am used to having ridden a couple years with my head set being waaaaay too tight from the factory so I am used to resistance in the steering but I have to say that I was comfortably able to relax a little more in my arms mainly because of the high speed valve (which really hasn't been tested yet),
I could tell once back home my shoulders weren't as sore as they usually are, there is still more testing to be done but first impression is good so far.





Related Content

Forums
Photo

Is this rod shot? 87 xr600r refresh by goneballistic


Dirt Bike   Make / Model Specific   Honda   XR600/650
  • Hot  136 replies
Forums
Photo

Can't make my mind up...xr650L to KTM 690r by 09BigRed


Dirt Bike   Special Interest Forums   Dual-Sport/Adventure
  • Hot  44 replies
Reviews

Honda XR650L 2015 by Bryan Bosch


Honda XR650L 2015
  • - - - - -
  • 0 reviews
Forums
Photo

2008 Honda xr650L Re-Jetting after Exhaust Modifications by ManFug


Dirt Bike   Make / Model Specific   Honda   XR600/650
  • 19 replies
Forums
Photo

XR650L owner here. by chrisross


Dirt Bike   Make / Model Specific   Honda   CRF250 L/M
  • Hot  31 replies
 
x

Join Our Community!

Even if you don't want to post, registered members get access to tools that make finding & following the good stuff easier.

If you enjoyed reading about "" here in the ThumperTalk archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join ThumperTalk today!

The views and opinions expressed on this page are strictly those of the author, and have not been reviewed or approved by ThumperTalk.