Anybody get a WR under 240lbs?


40 replies to this topic
  • 1talbotj

Posted October 31, 2010 - 05:38 AM

#21

you need to think out side the frame...look at overall weight with you included....its easier for you to loose 15 lbs and lower the overall weight vs stripping the bike of essentials...that is what im doing...and the money i save not eating so much chinese food is spent on more mods for my wr450...

  • RSAthump

Posted November 03, 2010 - 01:29 AM

#22

Losing weight on anybike especially the WR is a losing battle

firstly getting rid of Unsprung Weight should be priority number 1

1.Light Hubs
2.Lighter Rims
3.Titanium Axles
4.Lighter Discs

Then
Battery (makes no sense, why i bought the wr.. nothing worse than trying to kickstart a bike when you are climing in rocks or mud...
Head light
Small Alimunim bits
Boil Bottle? makes no sense bike will boil
Kickstand
Lighter pegs
Exhaust
wiring
AIS
Airbox snorkel
Switch gear on bars
Speedo (I like my speedo)
MX chain (non o ring)
Lighter Sprockets... (dont last as long)

Now, if you keen on racing you need to add...

1.Ali Skid plate'
2.Ali Front and rear disc guards
3.Bar risers
4.Steering Damper
5.Hand Guards
6.HEavier springs - weight of rider
7.Frame Guards
8.Rear Brake Master cylinder guard
9.braided brake hoses
10.Long range tank if you need one
11.Slime in tyres
12.Enduro Tubes or Tubliss system
13.Radiator Braces
14.Bigger Radiators
15.Case saver, and carbon fiber front spoket gaurd
16.GYRT plastic chain Guide..


You might as well by a YZ and convert the gearbox to a WR one... cheap conversion...

Many of the top riders here in South Africa do that... take a YZ, since the forks are better.... add the wr gearbox, add a boil bottle and protection and voila.. done..

So if you want to race, and you dont want to battle too much with weight loss, and spending huge to get your suspension right... a YZ is probably a better option, however you will have more maintenance costs... Motor especially

If you are a weekend warrior, and race for fun... a WR is a better bet. and you have e-start, if you are prone to stalling..

  • Chas_M

Posted November 03, 2010 - 09:18 AM

#23

I have heard that it is difficult and perhaps impossible to swap the WR trans gears into the YZ, or am I confusing this with the similar Honda CRF-X vs CRF-R situation??

  • grayracer513

Posted November 03, 2010 - 09:42 AM

#24

I have heard that it is difficult and perhaps impossible to swap the WR trans gears into the YZ, or am I confusing this with the similar Honda CRF-X vs CRF-R situation??

Not true at all. If you are working with an '03-'05 YZ450 4 speed, you need the entire transmission, including forks and shift cam, from an '03-'06 WR450.

If you have an '06-'09, you need the main shaft and the remaining 9 gears from an '07 or later WR450. Either of these is a direct bolt-in job, and it looks as if the '07+ WR stuff will also fit the 2010-11 YZ450 as well.

What is nearly impossible is swapping any YZ close ratio 5 speed into the '03-'05 YZ450 4 speed.

  • Bushdog

Posted November 03, 2010 - 07:45 PM

#25

you have to ask. is losing 5kg really that much of an issue.... i know i would not spend 1000's on new hubs, wheels, lighter sprockets, chains, discs, battery to only save maybe 5kg... i'd rather go to the gym.

like how many people REALLY need to do all that...

  • el bud

Posted November 04, 2010 - 09:11 AM

#26

I'd like to help but I can't even get MYSELF under 240. :excuseme::banghead::smirk:


This too is where I have the most potential for loss. OP never stated his weight.I was 215-220 when 1st got on wr, Now I'm 195-200. My bike has taken more off me than I can afford to take off it. :lol:

  • dgcars

Posted November 05, 2010 - 01:52 PM

#27

I bought a WR because it had all the stuff on it that I wanted. When I started riding it I was 198. After 6 months of shear fun, i'm 182. Moral of the story - spend your time riding the thing & you'll go faster longer - instead of scratching your head as to how you can make it weigh less....

  • Just_a_trail_rider

Posted November 07, 2010 - 02:21 PM

#28

I bought a WR because it had all the stuff on it that I wanted. When I started riding it I was 198. After 6 months of shear fun, i'm 182. Moral of the story - spend your time riding the thing & you'll go faster longer - instead of scratching your head as to how you can make it weigh less....


Do not dismiss the idea that a lighter bike doesn't have advantages. If you are racing and are about 3hours into a 75-80 mile race with some slow technical sections thrown in, you will want a lighter bike for sure.

Yes... everyone should get into shape, but if there's a way to make the bike lighter, then by all means do that as well.

  • tribalbc

Posted November 07, 2010 - 03:13 PM

#29

Do not dismiss the idea that a lighter bike doesn't have advantages. If you are racing and are about 3hours into a 75-80 mile race with some slow technical sections thrown in, you will want a lighter bike for sure.

Yes... everyone should get into shape, but if there's a way to make the bike lighter, then by all means do that as well.


Exactly, a heavy bike is a heavy bike. Anything you can do to lose weight to the bike, especially high and unsprung weight is going to make a difference to handling of the bike. You'll be extra thankfull when you're dragging it out of a mudhole :p

  • echelon5

Posted November 10, 2010 - 08:05 PM

#30

I got my 98 WR400 to under 240 pounds. It was pretty easy, all I did was take the engine off of it. BAM and it was light as a cr80 :p

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  • dgcars

Posted November 11, 2010 - 06:20 AM

#31

Point taken - although I did replace the standard exhaust with a Powercore Ti & a load of screws/washers with an alloy equivalent & pulled off the AIS.
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  • 123BigcoopDawg576

Posted November 11, 2010 - 12:11 PM

#32

Point taken - although I did replace the standard exhaust with a Powercore Ti & a load of screws/washers with an alloy equivalent & pulled off the AIS.
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Very clean! I like the custom AIS very nice :p

  • 1talbotj

Posted November 11, 2010 - 04:19 PM

#33

you dont need to drag it if you have enough raw power to fly through the mud...

  • Sycamore

Posted November 13, 2010 - 05:40 AM

#34

IMO guys who dont think the bike needs to lose weight are the ones likely just running fire roads are other non technical spots. The bike is heavy, all the enduro models are. Tweaking bikes to suite YOU is part of the fun of owning a bike. I say whack away at the porky bike.

E start- I've thought about doing mine since the bike normally starts pretty darn easy..yes I kick mine about half the time only because it is so easy.

Battery, if you keep the starter get a lighter one, they're not that expensive.

As mention the Ti rear springs can be had for 50 bucks The WR is vastly undersprung with all the pork and needs at least a stock YZ 5.5 Ti one anyway.

The WR or any enduro model is about the most versitile bike out there, building it to suite YOU makes the bike more versitile on top of being even more FUN.

  • xcountryfreak

Posted December 24, 2010 - 09:38 AM

#35

One thing that hasn't come up much is Aluminum bolts and nuts. There are lots of fasteners on the WR that are not heavy load bearing where AL could be safely used. Such as the shrouds and number plates. Lots of these steel fasteners are all over the bike if you look. Every few grams helps and AL is not that expensive. Bolts like the fork pinch bolts need Ti and can be had for around $10 each or less. All in all you may be able to save a few pounds using AL and Ti fasteners.

I have wondered if anyone ever tried using AL bolts for the case screws. There are enough of them to make a difference in weight. I Probably wouldn't use AL for the inner case screws but to hold on the clutch and mag cover would probably not be a problem.

From what I have read, aftermarket hubs are not that much if any lighter than stock. And a carbon fiber gas tank and airbox isn't worth the money for the savings. I think the best way to get the weight down is to use lots of AL and Ti bolts, lighter exhaust, ti footpegs, ti shock spring, lose the lights, speedo, overflow tank, AIS, snorkel, kickstand and airbox top, turntech battery, tubliss system and run the lightest/best tires.

There should be a weight weenies forum on Thumpertalk to keep track of parts weights and ideas for weight savings. If I can get my scale fixed I'll start posting parts weights.

  • jsantapau

Posted December 25, 2010 - 05:29 PM

#36

One thing that hasn't come up much is Aluminum bolts and nuts. There are lots of fasteners on the WR that are not heavy load bearing where AL could be safely used. Such as the shrouds and number plates. Lots of these steel fasteners are all over the bike if you look. Every few grams helps and AL is not that expensive. Bolts like the fork pinch bolts need Ti and can be had for around $10 each or less. All in all you may be able to save a few pounds using AL and Ti fasteners.

I have wondered if anyone ever tried using AL bolts for the case screws. There are enough of them to make a difference in weight. I Probably wouldn't use AL for the inner case screws but to hold on the clutch and mag cover would probably not be a problem.

From what I have read, aftermarket hubs are not that much if any lighter than stock. And a carbon fiber gas tank and airbox isn't worth the money for the savings. I think the best way to get the weight down is to use lots of AL and Ti bolts, lighter exhaust, ti footpegs, ti shock spring, lose the lights, speedo, overflow tank, AIS, snorkel, kickstand and airbox top, turntech battery, tubliss system and run the lightest/best tires.

There should be a weight weenies forum on Thumpertalk to keep track of parts weights and ideas for weight savings. If I can get my scale fixed I'll start posting parts weights.


I saved about a pound of weight changing all the plastic and the side cases of the engine bolts with aluminum on my 98 wr. For about 40$ (well 10 years ago) there was a generaic aluminum bolt kit out, said part was that they where allen bolts. In high maintenance areas standard hex head bolts are so much easier to work with than allens that get packed with mud

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted December 25, 2010 - 06:56 PM

#37

This thread is hilarious. :busted::bonk::busted::excuseme:

  • xcountryfreak

Posted December 28, 2010 - 01:57 PM

#38

Hey Jsantapau. Thanks for the info.

How did the aluminum case screws work out for you? Any problems other than allen heads filling up with dirt? Where did you get the kit? A pound is allot of weight to lose for $40.

  • jsantapau

Posted December 28, 2010 - 02:43 PM

#39

I think I got them from Dennis Kirk street bike catalog I cant remember too well It was for my 98 wr so it was a bit ago. aside from it being a pain to service from trapping the dirt the only problem I had was an occasional buggerred thread from me hamfisting an aluminum bolt. I didn't change all the bolts, changed all ignition and outer clutch, changed every other on the engine cases and did not change waterpump and near the kickstart on the inner clutch case.

  • xcountryfreak

Posted January 04, 2011 - 12:54 PM

#40

Checked out Ti footpegs to see if they were worth the cost. According to a post on Thumpertalk about footpeg options for yamaha's,(just search on "footpeg") the Ti pegs are only about 5 gm lighter each. Not worth it for me considering they are softer, narrower and the stock stainless pegs on my 08 are pretty nice. However, I took off the left footpeg bracket with the kickstand brace last night and it weighs a ton! Feels like over a pound. A YZ footpeg bracket is only $16. I won't mind searching for something to lean the bike against so much knowing I'm not draggin that extra weight around.




 
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