How to take apart PW80 carb?
Posted July 21, 2010 - 07:09 AM
Some pics of the float and bowl
Carb is actually still attached to the bike, I had to hold the camera virtually on the floor pointing up to get this shot.
Here is top of carb with the choke and throttle. Undo the nut end of the choke going in? Take off screws and plate for throttle? Better way?
Cable/tube coming from the carb to the autolube housing. Nothing to twist, turn or unhook from what I can tell.
Peep hole on the other side of the autolube housing where you can see the cable/tube end . . . . to nothing that I can see to unattach
I am probably overlooking the obvious, thanks in advance for giving consideration to such a long thread.
Posted July 21, 2010 - 10:33 AM
First, try cleaning just the bottom end of the carb, you can do this by rotating the carb about 80 degrees clock wise while sitting on the bike. By your photos, I guess you've gotten that far. Soak the carb bowl, pilot and main jet, blow it out with compressed air and you may very well solve your problem. Trust me. Done it a 1,000 times. Ok, probably 10.
If it doesn't, you'll have to take the carb out of the bike.
The good news, you're 95% done. But to review for anyone who may read this later:
first disconnect the oil injector hose from the carb, this is the one that comes in from the right, you have it circled in your second to last photo. You may have to slide a brass cuff off the nipple down the hose 1/2" or so to get it to release. Leave everything in the very last photo alone. It's the oil injector pump. You can run that bike through two generations of kids and never need to touch it.
next up, remove the rubber intake boot, it might be stubborn the first time, try twisting it. You should be able to twist it until it fully collapses without harming it. You can leave it attached to the air box.
Next, towards the back of the carb is a phillips/hex bolt. Loosen it. This should release the carb from the reed side of the intake. There is a plastic washer/spacer thing, it's white. Don't lose it.
Now you have access to the carb top. Unscrew the phillips head screws. Voila! carb out of bike.
While you have it out of the bike, be sure to check your float height. I mention this because for myself and others, it's a known problem, you should check it when ever it's convenient, like when you're reassembling the carb. I just took another look at your photos, be sure to soak all non-rubber parts of the float valve too. It's likely to stick open even if it's set correctly.
Posted July 21, 2010 - 11:41 AM
Posted July 28, 2010 - 09:11 AM
Posted July 28, 2010 - 09:43 AM
That's ok though, when they get that bad that soaking in carb dip and blowing them out with compressed air won't work, it's time for a new one. So if it works, great. If it doesn't want to run right, pick up a new one for a couple of bucks at your friendly motorcycle shop, VM22 pilot #15, although after modifying the air box and exhaust, I'm now running a #30.
In the future, if it will be stored for a long period of time (say a two or three months), just drain the carb (make sure fuel is off) and it'll be a long time till you have to do that again.
It wasn't all that different than your XR250 carb now was it?
Posted July 28, 2010 - 06:20 PM
Posted July 29, 2010 - 04:16 AM
The one I sold, was a trade for a KX60, which was in reasonable condition. The parts bike is slowly going away one piece at a time. I would have actually made money on it, however, I originally tried to fix it (bad bottom end) and spent $230 to have a motor shipped from FL which also had a bad bottom end, I got shafted by Dave's USA out of Homossassa, FL. As a result, I'm still $137 in the hole on that.
Posted January 15, 2011 - 11:08 PM
...which also had a bad bottom end, I got shafted by Dave's USA out of Homossassa, FL. As a result, I'm still $137 in the hole on that.
*makes quick mental note to avoid this as well!!*