How to take apart PW80 carb?


7 replies to this topic
  • kmulwee

Posted 21 July 2010 - 07:09 AM

#1

My sons 2006 PW80 has sat for a while. Would only run with choke on but without in gear. Did a search and found where someone else had a similar problem and found that the main jet needed cleaning. So figuring I would take the carb off and clean I had no idea what I had in store. I have clean a XR250 carb but this thing is way different. I did manage to get partly off and the bowl as well and WOW, what a mess! Yikes. Needs cleaned, bad. Anyway, I would like to be thorough and take it off for a complete cleaning. Here is my problem, I don't understand how the throttle cable should be taken off (choke too but seems I can dismount the choke from the bike then figure that out once the carb is away from the bike). There is a couple of screws that is holding a top plate where the choke and throttle go into the carb, just take that off? I assume the cables are directly connected to the choke and slide. I have diagram of the carb in the owners manual but doesn't actually show the cables hooked to the choke or throttle inside the carb. I see springs and a clip for the throttle. Should I just take the screw off the top and expose all of that in order to get the carb from the bike? The other thing holding it on there is this tube or cable running from the side of the carb over to the autolube pump. I don't see any way of disconnecting that thing? :smirk::banghead::cheers::banghead: Where it attaches to the carb, nothing to unfasten and then it just goes into the housing of the autolube. ?????

Some pics of the float and bowl

http://im1.shutterfl.../rx=720/ry=480/

Carb is actually still attached to the bike, I had to hold the camera virtually on the floor pointing up to get this shot.

http://im1.shutterfl.../rx=550/ry=400/

http://im1.shutterfl.../rx=550/ry=400/

Here is top of carb with the choke and throttle. Undo the nut end of the choke going in? Take off screws and plate for throttle? Better way?

http://im1.shutterfl.../rx=720/ry=480/

Cable/tube coming from the carb to the autolube housing. Nothing to twist, turn or unhook from what I can tell. :lol:

http://im1.shutterfl.../rx=720/ry=480/

Peep hole on the other side of the autolube housing where you can see the cable/tube end . . . . to nothing that I can see to unattach :ride::lol:

http://im1.shutterfl.../rx=720/ry=480/

I am probably overlooking the obvious, thanks in advance for giving consideration to such a long thread. :smirk:

  • Smacaroni

Posted 21 July 2010 - 10:33 AM

#2

Ok, this is pretty easy.
First, try cleaning just the bottom end of the carb, you can do this by rotating the carb about 80 degrees clock wise while sitting on the bike. By your photos, I guess you've gotten that far. Soak the carb bowl, pilot and main jet, blow it out with compressed air and you may very well solve your problem. Trust me. Done it a 1,000 times. Ok, probably 10.

If it doesn't, you'll have to take the carb out of the bike.
The good news, you're 95% done. But to review for anyone who may read this later:
first disconnect the oil injector hose from the carb, this is the one that comes in from the right, you have it circled in your second to last photo. You may have to slide a brass cuff off the nipple down the hose 1/2" or so to get it to release. Leave everything in the very last photo alone. It's the oil injector pump. You can run that bike through two generations of kids and never need to touch it.
next up, remove the rubber intake boot, it might be stubborn the first time, try twisting it. You should be able to twist it until it fully collapses without harming it. You can leave it attached to the air box.
Next, towards the back of the carb is a phillips/hex bolt. Loosen it. This should release the carb from the reed side of the intake. There is a plastic washer/spacer thing, it's white. Don't lose it.
Now you have access to the carb top. Unscrew the phillips head screws. Voila! carb out of bike.
While you have it out of the bike, be sure to check your float height. I mention this because for myself and others, it's a known problem, you should check it when ever it's convenient, like when you're reassembling the carb. I just took another look at your photos, be sure to soak all non-rubber parts of the float valve too. It's likely to stick open even if it's set correctly.

  • kmulwee

Posted 21 July 2010 - 11:41 AM

#3

Thanks that is much appreciated. Oil injector hose, that really had me. I didn't understand it or how it comes off so I didn't want to do anything that later would cost in time or money. :smirk: Oil injector pump will gladly be avoided, didn't want to touch that thing. Will post later how it turns out.

  • kmulwee

Posted 28 July 2010 - 09:11 AM

#4

Found the clog. I was stumped though trying to clear it out. I had a guitar string that fit in the end but would not go all the way through???? Then did a search and heard it was really tiny, so the hole gets smaller part way through. Not sure if I had another guitar string laying around or especially one that small but I lucked up and found one that worked, .012", very small. No wounder it got plugged up with as junked up the bowl was. :smirk: Put the carb back on the bike all cleaned up and runs like a champ. :smirk:

http://im1.shutterfl.../rx=720/ry=480/

Before
http://im1.shutterfl.../rx=720/ry=480/

After
http://im1.shutterfl.../rx=720/ry=480/

  • Smacaroni

Posted 28 July 2010 - 09:43 AM

#5

By my calculations, you'd need a 0.0059" wire to fit exactly or smaller.
That's ok though, when they get that bad that soaking in carb dip and blowing them out with compressed air won't work, it's time for a new one. So if it works, great. If it doesn't want to run right, pick up a new one for a couple of bucks at your friendly motorcycle shop, VM22 pilot #15, although after modifying the air box and exhaust, I'm now running a #30.

In the future, if it will be stored for a long period of time (say a two or three months), just drain the carb (make sure fuel is off) and it'll be a long time till you have to do that again.

It wasn't all that different than your XR250 carb now was it?

  • kmulwee

Posted 28 July 2010 - 06:20 PM

#6

Yeah, it wasn't so different, just that strange oil line coming in from the side had me stumped. I appreciate all the help. Thing now is I am going to sell it. Sat neglected for too long and is depreciating.

  • Smacaroni

Posted 29 July 2010 - 04:16 AM

#7

My experience (3 PWs purchased, 1 sold, one parts) is that used PW80s don't depreciate at all, you can buy one for $400 and sell it years later for $400. Now new, yes, those depreciate, to about $400. Ever now and then I see someone list one for $600-800 on CL and it stays there until the ad expires. The $300-400 ones go pretty quick. In fact, the one we still have, was up Friday at 8:00 and by the time I picked it up at 5:00, the guy had five people who wanted to see it. $300, IIRC the only thing wrong with it was the exhaust was gutted (makes noise, not much else) and the kill switch was broken. It worked, but the thumb part of the switch was broken off which seems really common.
The one I sold, was a trade for a KX60, which was in reasonable condition. The parts bike is slowly going away one piece at a time. I would have actually made money on it, however, I originally tried to fix it (bad bottom end) and spent $230 to have a motor shipped from FL which also had a bad bottom end, I got shafted by Dave's USA out of Homossassa, FL. As a result, I'm still $137 in the hole on that.

  • Curlytop

Posted 15 January 2011 - 11:08 PM

#8

...which also had a bad bottom end, I got shafted by Dave's USA out of Homossassa, FL. As a result, I'm still $137 in the hole on that.



*makes quick mental note to avoid this as well!!*




 
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