Replacing cam chain, flywheel puller oil passage cap question


16 replies to this topic
  • Luigic81

Posted July 14, 2010 - 12:46 PM

#1

I just the fw puller for this bike('06 yz450f) today, and noticed it has a oil passage cap, when and where exactly do I put this on? I'm not infront of the bike right now, I'm going to be doing this afterwork today, so it may be self evident, but I screw on the 2 pieces of the flywheel removing tool and tap it with a hammer to pop off the flywheel... do I install this oil passage cap before or after that? and where does it go? I've only removed flywheels on 2 strokes before and they didnt require this cap. Thanks

Also any special tips on replacing the cam chain, I would be glad to hear (yes I have read Gray's thread that is stickied on here)

  • grayracer513

Posted July 14, 2010 - 01:09 PM

#2

The only cap I know of for that puller goes on the crank threads. Read the whole post:

http://www.thumperta...d.php?p=5462850

  • Luigic81

Posted July 14, 2010 - 01:13 PM

#3

yep thats it, Thanks!!

  • Luigic81

Posted July 14, 2010 - 01:26 PM

#4

Quick question on re-assembly,
on your post about cam chain replacement, when you talk about "option b" you reference finding TDC with the whole run of the chain visible by "lining up the flywheel key with the bore centerline" What is the "bore centerline"? Thanks
Do you have to run the engine for a few minutes prior to doing this? I ask becuase I was going to check the valves at the same time, and obviously I cannot do that on a warm engine

in this pic I can see the flywheel key at about 10:00, where is the bore centerline?
Posted Image

Edited by Luigic81, July 14, 2010 - 01:44 PM.


  • grayracer513

Posted July 14, 2010 - 02:09 PM

#5

The cylinder bore, where the piston goes.

The engine only needs to run for sixty seconds or so to clear the sump. Then let it cool for a hour before you check the valves.

  • Luigic81

Posted July 14, 2010 - 02:34 PM

#6

The cylinder bore, where the piston goes.

The engine only needs to run for sixty seconds or so to clear the sump. Then let it cool for a hour before you check the valves.


ok thanks, sorry if this is a dumb question, but what would you consider to be the "centerline"
Do you mean just the middle of the cylinder? where the bolt goes through into the crankcase, So basically that flywheel key would be almost at 12:00?
thanks for the help!

  • grayracer513

Posted July 14, 2010 - 03:07 PM

#7

ok thanks, sorry if this is a dumb question, but what would you consider to be the "centerline"


The middle of it. If you're having trouble visualizing the center line of the bore. remove the spark plug, stick a Phillips screwdriver down there, and find TDC that way.

  • Luigic81

Posted July 14, 2010 - 10:09 PM

#8

ok so went to do the cam chain tonight, and have a few questions.
First I kinda did things backwards becuase I was following the manual instructions :smirk:
So I removed the tensioner and then removed the cam caps and the cams. I now realize that I should have removed the flywheel first. Anyways, I got the 17mm nut off the flywheel and then installed the puller, first the little cap, then the big piece threaded on and finally the piece that threads inside the big piece. My problem is that I can't get the flywheel off, and i think it's becuase I can't keep the motor from turning over, which results in me not being able to get enough torque on the puller to pop it off. Do I need to use a motor lock up tool? Or is the compression of the engine supposed to be enough?


On a side note I noticed a little black o-ring on the ground underneath where I was working on the flywheel. I can't figure out where it came from?? Here's a pic, got any idea where it came from? I put the 17mm flywheel nut next to it just for a size refrence
Posted Image

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  • grayracer513

Posted July 15, 2010 - 06:21 AM

#9

The O-ring fell off of the joint between the crankcase and the crankcase cover. There are two of them, one at each of at the dowel sleeves. They seal the return oil passage.

Be certain that you did NOT screw the thread cap all the way on (remember, I said READ the whole post I linked to? Read it again) If the cap is screwed all the way down the flywheel can't be removed.

You should be able to hold the puller with one wrench and turn the pressure screw with another. If, once you have what you think is a large amount of pressure on it, it still has not popped loose, strike the head of the pressure screw sharply with a steel hammer as if you were trying to bounce the crank out the other side. That should free it.

  • Luigic81

Posted July 15, 2010 - 06:59 AM

#10

Awesome thanks!! I got it now, it was pretty late when I was finishing up for the night and I don't think my brain was working properly. I put the new steering stem bearing and race in too, so by the time I got to the flywheel I think I was delirious lol

  • Luigic81

Posted July 15, 2010 - 07:36 AM

#11

when I finish up and put the cylinder head cover back on, am I supposed to put yamabond on the "eyelet" part of the head cover gasket, or is none needed? I think remember having to put some there on my kx250f years ago...

  • grayracer513

Posted July 15, 2010 - 11:52 AM

#12

I've never used any.

  • Luigic81

Posted July 16, 2010 - 08:08 AM

#13

I could only find 1 o-ring and I was staring to think I lost the other one, but then I looked up the part fiche and it looks like it only takes 1 o-ring (part #11)
Posted Image
" REF# PART #REQ RETAIL YOUR PRICE
1 COVER, CRANKCASE 1
2S2-15411-01-00 (replaces 2S2-15411-00-00) 1 $129.87 $90.92

  • grayracer513

Posted July 16, 2010 - 08:53 AM

#14

You're right. The other end of the passage doesn't have one. Be sure the O-ring goes in the recessed pocket cut for it, and not on the other side of the gasket.

  • Luigic81

Posted July 16, 2010 - 10:20 AM

#15

You're right. The other end of the passage doesn't have one. Be sure the O-ring goes in the recessed pocket cut for it, and not on the other side of the gasket.


so are you saying that the placement of the o-ring on that part fiche picture is incorrect? Instead it should go on the "outside"of the gasket so to speak, so it's inbetween the crankcase and the gasket, opposed to being inbetween the the gasket and the side cover as shown in the pic?

  • grayracer513

Posted July 16, 2010 - 10:31 AM

#16

I don't remember off the top of my head whether the recess for the O-ring is cut in the crankcase or the case cover. Wherever the recess is is where the O-ring belongs.

Look on both parts at the hole where the sleeve goes and you'll see it.

  • Luigic81

Posted July 16, 2010 - 10:46 AM

#17

cool thanks! I hope my timing chain shows up today, got the old one off and just waiting for the new part show up.





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